Shispare: Height, Climbing History and Where to See It

Shispare is a 7,611-metre peak in the Batura Muztagh, standing above the west bank of the Hunza river near Passu. It was first climbed in 1974, and it is one of the few 7,000-metre summits you can see from the Karakoram Highway. Its steep north-east face is easy to spot on the drive up the valley.

How high is Shispare?

7,611 metres, the 38th highest mountain in the world. Relief is its striking feature. Karimabad sits at about 2,060 metres, so the summit rises about 5,550 metres above the town in around 13 kilometres of horizontal distance, which gives it one of the steepest profiles in the range.

Climbing history

The first ascent was on 21 July 1974 by a Polish-German expedition led by Janusz Kurczab. They climbed the east ridge from the Passu glacier and took 35 days, and one member died in an avalanche during preparations. Japanese climbers from the Komono Alpine Club made the second ascent in 1994.

In 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima climbed the previously unclimbed north-east route in alpine style, and the ascent won a Piolet d'Or. That face is the one you see from the valley.

Shispare and its neighbours

Shispare belongs to the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram, and stands on the west bank of the Hunza river. The same range holds Batura Sar (7,795 m), Passu Sar (about 7,476 m) and Ultar Sar (7,388 m), all first climbed or attempted in the 1970s to 1990s. Because the range is so close to the river, Shispare is one of the few high summits where the drop from top to valley floor can be taken in from the road. Cloud tends to gather on these faces as the day warms up.

The route taken by the 1974 expedition came up the Passu glacier, the same ice that trekkers see from the Passu Cones viewpoint. The glacier is explained on our Passu glacier page.

Where can you see Shispare?

Shispare is visible from the highway, which few peaks over 7,500 metres are.

• Around Passu. Reference sources describe the elegant Shispare as visible from the road beside the Passu Cones and glaciers. See Passu Cones and things to do in Passu.
• Gulmit and Hassanabad. Both sit on the same stretch of valley, with the Batura range above. See things to do in Gulmit.
• The Hussaini and Passu area on a clear morning. Cloud often builds over the summits by midday, so allow time in the morning.

We have not found a fixed, marked viewpoint for Shispare, so treat any spot along this stretch with a clear line to the north-east as a viewing place and ask locally. Its neighbour, Batura Sar, is higher but far less visible.

Planning a look at Shispare

Give Passu a night rather than a stop, and put the mountain view first in the morning, before cloud builds. A plain stretch of road with a clear view north-east is enough; you do not need a hike. If you want more time near the ice, the walk to the Passu glacier suits most fit visitors, and our Hunza itinerary for three days shows how the days can be arranged. Carry a warm layer, because the wind from the glacier is cold even in summer.

Is it safe to travel there?

Gilgit-Baltistan is not among the areas the UK government advises against, and Pakistani visitors travel to Passu through the season. The UK does advise against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas; the Babusar route avoids that stretch in summer. Foreign-passport holders should check their government's advice, as it can void travel insurance. Check local news and road conditions before you set out.

Is it worth a special trip?

Not by itself. Shispare is a highlight of the drive between Gulmit and Sost, not a destination, so plan it as part of a day in Passu. Our best time to visit Hunza covers when views are clearest, and the Gilgit, Hunza and Khunjerab tour passes right beneath it.

Frequently asked questions