Uli Biaho Tower is a granite spire of 6,109 metres beside the Baltoro glacier in Baltistan, first climbed in 1979 by an American team. It sits next to the Trango Towers, and the only way to see it is on the trek towards K2 and Concordia. Nothing about it can be seen from Skardu or from a road.
The name causes confusion, so this page separates the tower from the higher peak of the same name, then covers the climbing history and where trekkers can look at it.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Uli Biaho Tower | 6,109 m |
| Uli Biaho Peak | 6,417 m, listed as unclimbed in the sources we checked |
| Range | Karakoram, near the Trango Towers and the Baltoro glacier |
| First ascent of the Tower | 3 July 1979, four Americans led by John Roskelley, east face |
| Where to see it | Baltoro trek, around Paiju, Khuburtse and Urdukas |
| Road access | None; the trek starts at Askole |
What is Uli Biaho?
Uli Biaho is a mountain with two named summits. Uli Biaho Tower is the famous rock spire at 6,109 metres. Uli Biaho Peak is the higher point at 6,417 metres. Reference sources describe the peak as unclimbed, while the tower has been climbed a number of times.
Both stand near the Trango Towers on the north side of the Baltoro glacier. Our page on the Trango Towers covers their neighbours, including the Great Trango Tower at 6,286 metres, and the Baltoro glacier page describes the full trekking route.
Climbing history
In July 1979 four American climbers led by John Roskelley reached the top of the tower by its east face, in alpine style. The route is 34 pitches and graded VII F8 A4, which puts it among the classic hard big-wall climbs of the Karakoram.
Italian climbers made the ascent by the Pilone Sud route in 1988. A Slovak pair, Cmarik and Kopold, climbed the north-west face in 2006, and several teams reached the summit by different lines in 2013. Sources disagree on some route details, so treat this as an outline, not a complete record. If the history matters to you, consult the American Alpine Club journal archive.
Where can you see Uli Biaho Tower?
You have to walk to it. The Baltoro trek starts in Askole and heads up the glacier through Jola, Paiju and Khuburtse to Urdukas and beyond. Trekking agencies describe the tower and its neighbours as follows:
- Paiju. The first camps on the glacier give views of a cluster of peaks including Uli Biaho and Paiju Peak.
- Khuburtse. The trail lists Paiju Peak (6,610 m), Uli Biaho, the Great Trango Tower and the Cathedral Towers on the horizon.
- Urdukas. The camp is described as having good views of the Trango Towers, Uli Biaho, the Baltoro Cathedral and Paiju Peak, and it is the classic place to spend an evening looking at them.
Distances between these camps vary from source to source, so do not plan a day from a single figure. Operators describe the walk from Askole to K2 base camp as about nine days one way. See our K2 base camp trek guide for the day-by-day version, and Skardu to Askole for the road to the start.
Permits and rules
The Baltoro trek runs through a restricted area of the Central Karakoram National Park. Foreign trekkers generally need a No Objection Certificate and park permits, a licensed Pakistani operator and a guide, and the paperwork can take weeks. Pakistanis should register with local authorities and use a local operator. Rules and fees change, so ask an operator for current details before you commit.
Who is this trip for?
If your interest is in the Trango and Uli Biaho skyline specifically, you are choosing a trek of roughly two to three weeks, at altitude, with camping. That suits fit, experienced walkers who want K2 as well. It does not suit anyone with a short holiday or without altitude experience.
If you are after big mountain scenery closer to a road, Shigar, Khaplu and the Deosai plains are easier and cover more ground. Our Skardu guide and Skardu and Deosai itinerary are a better start, and treks near Skardu lists shorter walks.
Frequently asked questions
How high is Uli Biaho Tower?
6,109 metres. The higher Uli Biaho Peak is 6,417 metres.
Who first climbed Uli Biaho Tower?
A four-man American team led by John Roskelley, on 3 July 1979, by the east face.
Where is Uli Biaho?
In Gilgit-Baltistan, beside the Baltoro glacier close to the Trango Towers.
Can you see Uli Biaho on the K2 base camp trek?
Yes. It is visible from camps between Paiju and Urdukas and along the glacier beyond.
Can you see Uli Biaho without trekking?
No. There is no road or viewpoint near it, and it is several days on foot from the nearest road at Askole.
