Scenic Drives in Gilgit-Baltistan Worth the Detour

Gilgit-Baltistan has more scenic drives than most travellers have time for, and the driving itself is often the best part of a visit. The three that stand out are the Karakoram Highway from Gilgit to Khunjerab Pass, the Skardu-Khaplu road along the Shyok river, and the Gilgit-Phander road towards Shandur. Each is a different kind of drive, and each can be done as a long day out or as one leg of a longer trip.

This guide covers what each route looks like, how long it takes, and what to expect from the road surface.

Gilgit to Khunjerab Pass along the Karakoram Highway

This is the best-known drive in the region, and for good reason: it follows the Hunza river north through Aliabad, past Attabad Lake and its tunnels, through Gulmit and Passu, and climbs to the Pakistan-China border at 4,693 metres. The road is paved the entire way and well maintained, and it is usually done as a day trip from Karimabad rather than from Gilgit itself, cutting the driving time roughly in half. Most people don't drive it end to end from Gilgit in one go; they base themselves in Hunza and do the final stretch to the pass as a separate day. Our guide to Khunjerab Pass covers opening dates, timings and what to expect at the top.

Skardu to Khaplu along the Shyok river

This drive heads east from Skardu, following the Shyok river through villages including Balghar and Machulu before reaching Khaplu, a former princely state with its own palace and fort. It is a quieter, less-travelled route than the Karakoram Highway, with fewer other vehicles and a slower, more rural feel, passing apricot orchards and small settlements rather than the dramatic gorge scenery of Hunza. The road is paved for most of its length, with rougher patches in places. It suits travellers who have already done the main Hunza run and want something less crowded, and it can be combined with a stop at Khaplu Palace at the end.

Gilgit to Phander towards Shandur

This is the longest and least developed of the three. The road runs west from Gilgit through Gupis, following the Ghizer river to Phander, a wide green valley with a lake that many visitors rate among the most attractive in the region, and it can be continued further to Shandur Pass, home of the world's highest polo ground. The road as far as Phander is paved; beyond it, heading up to Shandur, expect a rougher, jeep-track surface. This drive sees far fewer tourists than the Hunza route and works best as an overnight trip rather than a rushed day out, given the distance involved.

Choosing a drive to fit your trip

• Short on time, want the classic route: the Gilgit-Khunjerab road, done from Karimabad, fits into a single long day and covers the most famous scenery in the region.
• Already done Hunza, want something quieter: Skardu to Khaplu is a manageable half-day drive with a genuine change of pace and a historic destination at the end.
• Have an extra day and want somewhere few tourists go: Gilgit to Phander, and on to Shandur if time allows, rewards the distance with landscapes that stay green and open rather than dramatic and vertical.

What to check before you set out

Road conditions in Gilgit-Baltistan change with the season and after heavy rain or snow, and a route that is a simple paved drive in July can be affected by landslides or closures at other times of year. Check locally the evening before, especially outside the June to September window, and don't attempt the rougher stretches towards Shandur in an ordinary saloon car. Our travel guide has more on road conditions and what to pack for driving in the region.

Frequently asked questions