Kanjut Sar is a 7,760-metre peak in the Hispar Muztagh, the 28th highest mountain in the world, standing between the Shimshal and Hispar valleys. It was first climbed in 1959 by an Italian expedition. Unlike Ultar Sar or Shispare, it is not one of the peaks named from the Karakoram Highway or Karimabad, and the practical way to get near it is via Shimshal.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Height | about 7,760 m (some sources give 7,790 m) |
| World rank | 28th highest |
| Range | Hispar Muztagh, between Shimshal and Hispar valleys |
| First ascent | 1959, Camillo Pellissier, Italian expedition led by Guido Monzino |
| Kanjut Sar II | 6,831 m, southeast of the main summit |
| Nearest settlement | Shimshal, 3,113 m, about 53 to 56 km by road from Passu |
Where does the name come from?
Kanjut is the local name for the Hunza valley, and sar means peak in Burushaski. The name is spelt several ways, including Kunjut Sar, and you will find the height quoted as 7,760 or 7,790 metres depending on the source. The peak has two summits. Kanjut Sar II, at 6,831 metres, lies to the southeast of the main peak.
Climbing history
Camillo Pellissier reached the summit in 1959 as part of an Italian expedition directed by Guido Monzino, climbing from the southern side. Later ascents include a Japanese team in August 1981. Kanjut Sar II was first climbed in 1985 by a Swiss team led by Toni Spirig, in alpine style after several attempts, and a Dutch expedition made the second ascent by the south face on 29 July 1990.
The mountain rises above a tributary of the Hispar glacier, and it is part of a cluster of very high peaks that includes Distaghil Sar (7,885 m) and Trivor (7,577 m). See our pages on Distaghil Sar and the Hispar glacier.
Can visitors see Kanjut Sar?
Not easily from the main valley. Trekking pages place Kanjut Sar among the great peaks of the Shimshal region, and one lists it as visible from the Boesam pass on a Shimshal trek. Most day visitors to Hunza never see it.
The realistic options are:
- Shimshal valley. The road leaves the Karakoram Highway just beyond Passu and runs about 53 to 56 km to Shimshal village. Shimshal was cut off until a road opened in October 2003. One traveller guide advises that no special permit is needed simply to stay in Shimshal, only ID at the police checkpoint. Guides describe the road as rough and exposed. See our Shimshal valley page.
- Shimshal Pamir and pass treks. These high pastures and passes are where trekking agencies describe views of the big peaks. See Shimshal Pass trek and Khurdopin Pass trek.
- The Hispar side. This is a long trekking route, covered on our Hispar valley page.
None of these gives a guaranteed clear view of Kanjut Sar itself, and we have not found a single marked viewpoint, so ask a guide in Shimshal which spot they recommend.
Permits and climbing rules
Climbing Kanjut Sar is an expedition matter and needs a mountaineering permit arranged through a licensed operator. One traveller guide says peaks under 6,000 metres do not require permits, but that is a separate case. Trekkers should check with a Hunza operator or the Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department about rules and any restricted areas before leaving, as they change.
Is it safe to travel there?
Gilgit-Baltistan is not among the areas the UK government advises against, and Pakistani visitors travel to Hunza and Shimshal in the season. The UK does advise against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas, so many drivers from the south use the Babusar route in summer. Foreign-passport holders should check their own government's advice, because travelling against it can void insurance. Check local news and the state of the Shimshal road before leaving.
Who is Shimshal for?
Shimshal suits travellers who have already seen Karimabad and Passu and want a quiet, high village and the chance to walk to summer pastures. It does not suit anyone short of time, prone to car sickness, or expecting hotels. Mobile signal is described as practically non-existent, and guesthouse rooms are simple. Those who only want mountain views close to the road are better served at Passu and Karimabad, and our Gilgit, Hunza and Khunjerab tour covers those.
Frequently asked questions
How high is Kanjut Sar?
About 7,760 metres, the 28th highest mountain in the world; some sources say 7,790 metres.
Who first climbed Kanjut Sar?
Camillo Pellissier, in 1959, with an Italian expedition led by Guido Monzino.
Where is Kanjut Sar?
Between the Shimshal and Hispar valleys in the Hispar Muztagh, Gilgit-Baltistan.
Can you see Kanjut Sar from Hunza?
It is not among the peaks usually named from Karimabad or the Karakoram Highway, and it is best approached from Shimshal.
How far is Shimshal from Passu?
About 53 to 56 km by a rough road, and several hours in a jeep.
