Distaghil Sar is a 7,885-metre peak in the Hispar Muztagh range of the Karakoram, the highest point of that range, the 19th-highest mountain in the world and the seventh-highest in Pakistan. It stands on the divide between the Shimshal valley to the north and the Hispar glacier to the south. You cannot see it from Karimabad or the usual stops on the Karakoram Highway. The realistic place to see it is the Malangutti glacier on the road to Shimshal, where its north face closes the head of the valley.
This guide covers the mountain's size, its climbing history, where it can be seen and what the journey involves.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Height | 7,885 m (25,869 ft) |
| Prominence | 2,525 m |
| Range | Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram |
| Rank | 19th in the world, 7th in Pakistan |
| First ascent | 9 June 1960, Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart (Austria) |
| Nearest village | Shimshal, 3,113 m, 56 km by jeep road from Passu |
| Where to see it | Malangutti glacier, a few kilometres west of Shimshal village |
| Seen from Karimabad? | No |
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How big is Distaghil Sar?
The summit is 7,885 metres, only 115 metres short of the 8,000-metre mark. Its prominence of 2,525 metres means it stands well clear of anything around it; you have to go to K2 to find higher ground.
What sets it apart is the summit ridge, which runs for about 3 km above 7,400 metres. There are three tops on it: the main north-west summit at 7,885 metres, a central summit at 7,760 metres and a south-east summit that sources give as either 7,696 or 7,535 metres.
The name is usually translated as "sheepfold in the hills". You will also see it spelled Disteghil Sar.
Where it sits in the Hispar Muztagh
The Hispar Muztagh is the second-highest sub-range of the Karakoram after the Baltoro Muztagh, which holds K2. It lies north of the Hispar glacier, south of the Shimshal valley and east of the Hunza valley. Distaghil Sar is its high point, with a line of other giants beside it.
| Peak | Height | First climbed |
|---|---|---|
| Distaghil Sar | 7,885 m | 1960 |
| Kunyang Chhish | 7,823 m | 1971 |
| Kanjut Sar | 7,760 m | 1959 |
| Trivor | 7,577 m | 1960 |
| Pumari Chhish | 7,492 m | 1979 |
| Momhil Sar | 7,414 m | 1964 |
Our guides to Kunyang Chhish and Kanjut Sar cover two of its neighbours, and the highest peaks in Gilgit-Baltistan puts the whole list in order.
Climbing history
Distaghil Sar has been climbed very few times. The Himalayan Index records three ascents and five failed attempts.
- 1957. A British expedition led by Alfred Gregory tried from the south and west. Bad weather stopped it at about 6,500 metres.
- 1959. A Swiss team under Raymond Lambert attempted the south-east ridge and was also beaten by weather.
- 1960. An Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan succeeded. Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart reached the main summit on 9 June by the western part of the south face and the south-west ridge.
- 1980. A Polish expedition that included Tadeusz Piotrowski made the first ascent of the east summit by the east face. It was climbed again in 1983.
- 1982. A Spanish team repeated a line close to the 1960 route, the second ascent of the main summit.
- 1988 and 1998. Two attempts on the north face failed. The 1998 British team could not even reach the foot of the face because the Malangutti glacier was so badly crevassed.
- 2008. A British and Canadian team came for the north ridge and gave up soon after arriving. The ground had changed so much in ten years that they judged it too dangerous.
Both ascents of the main summit were made from the south. The north face above Shimshal, the one visitors see, has no recorded ascent.
Where can you see Distaghil Sar?
Not from central Hunza. The peak is set far back behind nearer ridges. It does not appear in the view from Karimabad, and we found no reliable account of it being visible from the Karakoram Highway. For what you can see from town, read mountains visible from Karimabad.
From the Malangutti glacier, on the way to Shimshal. The Malangutti glacier flows straight down from the north face and reaches the floor of the Shimshal valley a few kilometres west of Shimshal village. A British expedition that camped on its west bank in 1984 described looking up the glacier to the north face whenever the cloud lifted, and seeing it clearly for the first time on a still evening. Expect the same conditions: the face is often hidden, and early morning or evening gives the best chance.
From higher ground above Shimshal. Treks out of the village climb to pastures with wider views of the range. Ask a Shimshal guide which viewpoint suits your fitness; we could not verify named viewpoints well enough to list them.
How to get there
- Reach Passu on the Karakoram Highway in upper Hunza, about 49 km beyond Karimabad.
- Take the Shimshal road. It leaves the highway near Passu and runs 56 km up a narrow gorge to Shimshal village at 3,113 metres. The road only opened in October 2003; before that the journey was a walk of several days. It is a rough jeep track cut into cliffs, prone to rockfall and washouts, and not a road for an ordinary car.
- Stop at the Malangutti glacier before the village for the view, or stay in Shimshal and walk back down to it.
Hire a local jeep and driver in Passu or Gulmit and ask about the state of the road that week. Our Shimshal valley guide covers the village, where to stay and the longer Shimshal Pass trek.
Summer is the practical season; outside it, ask in Passu whether the road is open before you commit. Shimshal sits above 3,000 metres, so spend a night or two in Hunza first; our altitude sickness guide explains why.
Anyone driving up from Islamabad should know that the UK government advises against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas. The Babusar route avoids that stretch in summer. Foreign-passport holders should check their own government's advice, since it can void insurance.
Do you need a permit?
Driving to Shimshal and walking to the glacier viewpoint needs no climbing permit. Climbing a peak of this height does, and expeditions go through a licensed operator. Longer treks beyond Shimshal towards the border may need a trekking permit; see trekking permits in Gilgit-Baltistan and confirm with the Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department before you set out.
Is it worth the effort?
For most visitors to Hunza, no, not as a goal in itself. The Shimshal road is long, rough and exposed, and the mountain may be in cloud when you arrive. Rakaposhi, Ultar and the Passu Cones give great mountain views from a paved road.
It is worth it if Shimshal is already in your plan. Then the Malangutti stop costs nothing extra and shows you a face that almost no one has set foot on. Keen trekkers and anyone who follows mountaineering history will get the most from it. If you want help deciding whether Shimshal fits your dates, tell us your plan.
Frequently asked questions
How tall is Distaghil Sar?
7,885 metres (25,869 feet). It is the 19th-highest mountain in the world and the seventh-highest in Pakistan.
Where is Distaghil Sar located?
In the Hispar Muztagh range of the Karakoram in Gilgit-Baltistan, between the Shimshal valley to the north and the Hispar glacier to the south.
Who first climbed Distaghil Sar?
Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart, members of an Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Stefan, on 9 June 1960.
Can you see Distaghil Sar from Karimabad or the Karakoram Highway?
Not from Karimabad, and we found no reliable report of a view from the highway. The accessible view is from the Malangutti glacier on the Shimshal road.
How many times has Distaghil Sar been climbed?
The Himalayan Index lists three ascents, in 1960, 1980 and 1982, against five failed attempts. The index itself notes that its records can be incomplete.
Has the north face of Distaghil Sar been climbed?
There is no recorded ascent. Attempts in 1988 and 1998 failed, and a 2008 team abandoned the north ridge because the approach had become too dangerous.
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