The Tumishling festival in Hunza, more usually spelled Thumishaling or Thumushaling, is a winter festival, not a spring one. It is observed on the night of 20 to 21 December, the winter solstice, around a large bonfire. If you searched for a spring flour festival, you probably want the Nauroz celebrations or the Ginani harvest festival instead.
This page explains what Thumishaling is, what happens on the night, where in Hunza it is marked, and how realistic it is to plan a trip around it.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Season | Winter, night of 20 to 21 December |
| Also called | Thumushaling, Taleno (parts of Gilgit-Baltistan), Mayfung (Baltistan) |
| Centrepiece | A bonfire, fireballs and an all-night gathering |
| Best known Hunza venue | Khanabad, according to tour operators |
| Fixed programme or ticket | None that we could verify |
What is Thumishaling?
Thumushaling is the local form of a winter-solstice festival in Gilgit-Baltistan. Its names change with the place: Thumushaling in and around Gilgit and Hunza, Taleno in some Gilgit areas, and Mayfung in Baltistan. Wikipedia lists Mayfung as the Baltistan version of the same night.
It is usually described as a festival of fire and the triumph of good over evil. Communities gather to eat, drink, sing and dance, and stay awake through the night around a big fire.
The legend of Shiri Badat
The story attached to the festival is about Shiri Badat, a ruler of Gilgit remembered in local tradition as a tyrant and cannibal, and often described as the last non-Muslim ruler of the region. In the usual telling, his palace was set on fire with the help of his own daughter and he was killed, or driven off, on this night. The bonfire recalls that fire.
Details differ from one account to another, including whether he was Hindu or Buddhist and how he died. Treat it as oral history rather than a documented event. Some writers read the cannibal story as a folk memory of a ruler who exploited children.
What happens on the night
- The bonfire. A large fire is lit and people gather around it. Some accounts describe dancers spinning handheld fireballs.
- An effigy. Tour operators describe a symbolic burning of an effigy of Shiri Badat in Khanabad, the Hunza village they name as the venue.
- Music, dance and stories. Traditional music and storytelling run through the evening.
- Food and flour. The night overlaps with Nasalo, when an animal fattened over the year is slaughtered for winter provisions. Young people dressed as old men go door to door collecting flour, which is later used for communal meals. This is the only flour tradition we found attached to the festival, and it belongs to winter.
Can visitors attend?
Probably, but there is no ticketed event or published schedule that we could find. This is a village and family occasion, not a tourist show. A few tour operators sell packages built around it, so treat their programmes as private arrangements and not as an official calendar.
If you go, behave as a guest. Ask before photographing people, especially women and elders, keep back from the fire, and accept food if it is offered. Confirm the exact village and timing locally, because this is held in several places and plans can change.
Getting to Hunza in December
December is the coldest part of the year in Hunza. Some guesthouses close for the season, and heating and hot water are worth confirming before you book; see our list of Hunza hotels open in winter and our notes on Hunza in winter. The Khunjerab road beyond Sost is closed to visitors then, but Karimabad, Aliabad and Khanabad are reachable on the Karakoram Highway.
Check the road before you set out. The UK government advises against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas, and the Babusar route is closed by snow in winter, so anyone whose plan uses the Highway from Islamabad should read our note on the road's safety and check local news. Foreign-passport holders should check their own government's advice, since it can affect travel insurance. Flying to Gilgit is the other option, but winter flights are often cancelled for weather.
Is it worth planning a trip around it?
Only if you want a winter trip in any case. The night itself is short and informal, and there is nothing to book. What you get is the chance to see a pre-Islamic seasonal custom that is still practised, in a valley that is quiet and cold in December.
It suits travellers comfortable with cold, patchy services and uncertain plans. It does not suit families with small children or anyone who needs a fixed programme. Our Hunza culture guide and the Gilgit-Baltistan festivals overview give context, and the experiences page shows how we think about cultural trips.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Thumishaling festival?
On the night of 20 to 21 December, around the winter solstice.
Is Tumishling a spring festival?
No. It is a winter festival. Hunza's spring customs, such as Bafao (wheat sowing, traditionally in February) and Nauroz in March, are separate.
Where is Thumishaling celebrated in Hunza?
Tour operators name Khanabad. It is also observed around Gilgit, and as Mayfung in Baltistan.
Who was Shiri Badat?
A ruler of Gilgit remembered in local legend as a cruel cannibal king. The story is oral tradition and the details vary between accounts.
Can tourists join the celebration?
Local hosts are generally welcoming, but it is not a ticketed event. Ask locally and behave as a guest.
