This Skardu, Shigar and Khaplu itinerary takes six days, which is enough to see the four main parts of Baltistan without rushing: Skardu and its lakes, Shigar with its fort, Khaplu with its palace and old mosque, and the Kharmang side of the Indus with Manthokha waterfall. The route is a series of out-and-back drives from Skardu, not a single circuit: Shigar is about 35 km away, Khaplu about 103 km, and Kharmang about 110 km, in three different directions.
This guide gives a day-by-day plan, realistic drive times and what drives the cost. It assumes you fly in and out of Skardu, and it leaves a margin for the weather delays that affect flights there.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Length | 6 days, 5 nights |
| Base | Skardu, with one night in Khaplu |
| Skardu to Shigar | About 35 km, around an hour |
| Skardu to Khaplu | About 103 km, roughly 2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on road and stops |
| Skardu to Manthokha waterfall | About 80 km, roughly 2.5 to 3 hours |
| Best months | May to October; blossom in late March and April |
| Arrive | Fly to Skardu; see the safety note below before driving in |
How the route fits together
Skardu is the hub. A paved road runs east to Khaplu along the Indus and then the Shyok. A road north-east goes up the Shigar valley. Another follows the Indus south-east towards Kharmang and the old road to Kargil. You come back to Skardu between each leg, or sleep out once, as this plan does in Khaplu.
Distances look short and are not: these are mountain roads, with narrow stretches, rough patches and landslide repairs. Sources give 2 to 3.5 hours for the Khaplu drive, and the last few kilometres to Manthokha waterfall are described as slow and bumpy. Plan the day around the time, not the kilometres.
Day 1: Arrive in Skardu, ease in
Flights from Islamabad take about an hour and land in the morning when the weather allows. After checking in, keep the day light. Skardu is around 2,230 metres, and a first day of walking slowly is a better start than a long drive.
If you arrive early, go to Upper Kachura Lake or the Shangrila area, and finish in the bazaar. See our guides to Upper Kachura Lake and Shangrila Resort. If flights are delayed, you lose only a gentle day.
Day 2: Skardu to Shigar and back
Shigar is about 35 km from Skardu, a drive of roughly 45 minutes to an hour through a narrowing valley beside the Shigar River. On the way you pass the edge of the Katpana cold desert.
The main sight is Shigar Fort, a centuries-old Balti fortress restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, now partly a museum and partly a Serena hotel. Allow two to three hours for the fort and the old village lanes around it. Our guides to Shigar Fort and places to visit in Shigar Valley cover what to see. You can return to Skardu the same afternoon, which keeps your luggage in one hotel.
If you want a longer day, add the Katpana desert at the end.
Day 3: Skardu to Khaplu
Leave early. The road to Khaplu is about 103 km and, according to the sources we checked, takes about 2.5 to 3.5 hours. Wikipedia places Khaplu at 2,600 metres. The route follows the river through canyon country, with the river valleys opening into green villages as you get closer to Khaplu.
In the afternoon visit Khaplu Palace, a Tibetan-style royal residence restored and now run as a hotel by Serena, and the old Chaqchan Mosque, which dates to the 14th century. Overnight in Khaplu. Our Khaplu hotels guide lists where to stay, and places to visit in Khaplu lists what else is close.
Day 4: Khaplu, then back to Skardu
Spend the morning in Khaplu. Walk the village lanes below the palace, take the fish-farm and river-village walks that most local itineraries include, and photograph the Shyok from the bank. Then drive back to Skardu, leaving by early afternoon so you are not on the road after dark.
If you would rather spend two nights in Khaplu and turn this into a base for the Hushe valley, see Khaplu itinerary and Hushe valley. You would then drop the Kharmang day.
Day 5: Kharmang and Manthokha waterfall
This is the long day trip. Manthokha waterfall is about 80 km from Skardu, a drive of roughly 2.5 to 3 hours each way along the Indus on the old Kargil road. The road is described as decent for most of the way, with a rougher, slower final stretch of about 5 km. Start by 7 am.
Pack lunch or confirm what is available. Facilities near the waterfall are limited. Our guide to hotels near Manthokha waterfall explains the options if you want to stay nearby instead of driving back.
If the weather is bad or the road is closed, the fallback is Deosai or a day around Skardu. See skardu to Deosai and our five-day Skardu itinerary.
Day 6: Fly out
Flights from Skardu are cancelled often, mostly because of cloud. If you have a fixed return date, such as work or an onward flight, add a spare day at the end. The 6-day plan above has no buffer. Our guide to Skardu flight cancellations explains what to do if your flight is cancelled.
What affects the cost of this itinerary
We do not give a total here, because transport and hotel rates change by season and no published figure we found was current and complete. Instead, these are the four things that move the total:
- Flights. Return flights between Islamabad, Lahore or Karachi and Skardu are the largest single item for most visitors. Fares vary a lot by date.
- Hotels. Six days with five nights, one of them in Khaplu. See our guides to budget, mid-range and luxury hotels in Skardu.
- A vehicle with a driver. You will need one for Shigar, Khaplu and Kharmang, which are too far apart for taxis. Prices depend on distance, season and fuel.
- Food and entry fees. Small compared with the rest.
For worked totals, use our Skardu trip cost guide. Our own 7-day Skardu and Deosai tour starts from PKR 90,000 per person; it covers a different route, but gives a reference point for what a fully arranged trip costs.
Getting to Skardu and a safety note
Flying avoids the longest road risk. If you drive from Islamabad, the usual route goes along the Karakoram Highway, and the UK government advises against all travel on the section between Mansehra and Chilas. Babusar (N15) avoids that stretch in summer when it is open. Pakistani visitors still travel by road, but check local news and current police advice first, and read our guide on road or flight to Skardu. Visitors on foreign passports should check their own government's advice, because travelling against it can void insurance. Gilgit-Baltistan itself is not on the UK list; for local conditions see is Skardu safe.
Is this the right itinerary for you?
It suits couples, families with older children and groups who want culture and landscape in roughly equal parts, and who are happy to spend 5 to 7 hours of each of two days in a vehicle.
It does not suit anyone short on time, anyone who gets travel-sick on winding roads, or visitors who want Deosai, Hushe or trekking as the main event. In that case drop Kharmang and use the extra day for Deosai, or compare Shigar and Khaplu and pick one. For the whole region, start with our Skardu guide.
Frequently asked questions
Is 6 days enough for Skardu, Shigar and Khaplu?
Yes, if you accept two long drive days. You will see the main sights in each place, but not Deosai, the Hushe valley or any treks.
How far is Khaplu from Skardu?
About 103 km, taking roughly 2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on the road, the weather and your stops.
How far is Shigar from Skardu?
About 30 to 35 km, taking 45 minutes to an hour. It works as a half-day trip from Skardu.
Is Manthokha waterfall worth a full day?
It is a long day for a single waterfall, around 5 to 6 hours of driving. It is worth it if you like river-valley road trips; skip it if time is short.
Do I need to stay a night in Khaplu?
It is better to. Driving there and back in a day leaves little time at the palace and on the walks.
What is the best time of year for this route?
May to October for dependable roads and clear days. Late March and April add the apricot and cherry blossom, but nights are cold and flights are more often delayed.
