Malubiting, also called Malubiting West, is a 7,458-metre peak in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh mountains about 50 km east of Gilgit. Austrian climbers made the first ascent in 1971, and there has been only one more recorded ascent since. Most visitors can see it only on a trek in the Haramosh valley, as it is not a peak that is clearly named from the main road.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Height | 7,458 m (24,469 ft), 58th highest in the world |
| Range | Rakaposhi-Haramosh mountains, north of the Indus |
| First ascent | 23 August 1971, Austrian team led by Horst Schindlbacher, north-east ridge |
| Second recorded ascent | 1997, Swiss-German team, same route |
| Above | Haramosh Jutial village, on the Phuparash river |
| Distance from Gilgit | about 50 km east (straight line) |
How high is Malubiting?
Malubiting stands at 7,458 metres and ranks as the 58th highest mountain in the world. It is the second-highest peak between the Haramosh and Hispar valleys. On its southwest side it rises steeply above the village of Haramosh Jutial, on the Phuparash river, and the long Chogo Lungma glacier flows from its slopes.
Climbing history
Several expeditions tried the mountain between 1955 and 1970 without reaching the top. An Austrian team led by Horst Schindlbacher finally succeeded on 23 August 1971 by the north-east ridge. Only one further recorded ascent followed, in 1997, when a Swiss-German team used the same route.
That makes Malubiting a rarely climbed 7,000-metre peak. It has never been a commercial objective, unlike some of its bigger neighbours.
Where can you see Malubiting?
Malubiting sits at the heart of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh range, above the north bank of the Indus. Trekking accounts place it in the view from the Haramosh valley.
- The Haramosh valley trek. One published account of a three-day trip describes views of Mani Peak, Haramosh Peak, Haramosh La and Malubiting along the route. The trek starts from the Sassi hydel power station, reached from Jaglot on the Karakoram Highway by a wagon or jeep ride of about 70 minutes, and then continues to Kutwal Lake. See our guides to Haramosh valley, Kutwal Lake trek and Haramosh peak.
- Haramosh Pass and Chogo Lungma routes. Trekking agencies list Malubiting among the peaks seen on the Haramosh Pass trek. These are multi-day trips with camping.
- From the Karakoram Highway. We could not confirm a reliable roadside viewpoint for Malubiting, so do not plan a stop around it. For a peak you can identify from the road, see Rakaposhi.
Kutwal Lake, the usual goal of that trek, lies about 60 miles (roughly 95 km) east of Gilgit as the crow flies and is surrounded by Haramosh Peak (7,409 m), Laila Peak and Dobani Peak. Operators describe the walk in from the road end as about six hours after the jeep ride. Because these distances are measured in a straight line, the real journey from Gilgit is a long day of driving and walking, and most groups allow three to four days for the whole trek out and back. Ask your operator which campsites give the widest views of the Malubiting side.
The Haramosh valley is described as avalanche-prone, and one recent account notes heavy litter at popular campsites. Carry your rubbish out.
Permits and access
Ask a licensed local operator about current rules for the Haramosh area, since permit and registration requirements for treks differ between Pakistani and foreign visitors and can change. Climbing Malubiting itself is an expedition needing a mountaineering permit.
Is it safe to travel there?
Gilgit-Baltistan is not among the areas the UK government advises against, and Pakistani visitors travel there throughout the season. The UK does advise against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas, and that stretch lies on the road from Islamabad to Gilgit. Travellers from the south often use the Babusar route in summer, or fly. Foreign-passport holders should check their own government's advice, because it can void insurance. Check current road and security news before setting out.
Is it worth going for?
Only as part of a wider Haramosh trek. The valley suits fit walkers who want quiet trails, wild scenery and some effort, and who accept simple camping, avalanche awareness and no facilities. Those with a few days in Gilgit and no trekking experience will get more from Rakaposhi viewpoint and the Hunza valley. The Gilgit, Hunza and Khunjerab guide covers the easier options.
Frequently asked questions
How high is Malubiting?
7,458 metres, the 58th highest mountain in the world.
Who first climbed Malubiting?
An Austrian team led by Horst Schindlbacher on 23 August 1971, by the north-east ridge.
Where is Malubiting?
In the Rakaposhi-Haramosh mountains, about 50 km east of Gilgit, above Haramosh Jutial.
Can you see Malubiting from Gilgit?
We could not confirm a roadside viewpoint. Trekkers in the Haramosh valley report seeing it.
How many people have climbed Malubiting?
Reference sources record two ascents, in 1971 and 1997, both by the same route.
