Dir to Kumrat is a drive of roughly 100 to 130 km and most of a day, because the last third is an unpaved track. You leave the N-45 at Sheringal, follow the Panjkora river up to Thal, and then take a 4x4 jeep on the rough road into Kumrat, at around 2,400 metres. Plan on 6 to 9 hours from Dir town in normal conditions, more after rain.
This guide covers the stages, what each one is like, and how to decide between driving your own vehicle and hiring a jeep at Thal. Read the safety section before you plan anything: Upper Dir is on the UK government's list of areas it advises against visiting.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Route | Dir, Sheringal (Baab-e-Kumrat), Thal, Kumrat |
| Total distance | Roughly 100 to 130 km, depending on where you count from and end |
| Drive time | About 6 to 9 hours from Dir, without long stops |
| Paved section | Dir to Sheringal is metalled but rough in places; beyond it deteriorates |
| Vehicle | 4x4 for the last stage; a sedan can reach Thal only in dry weather |
| Altitude | About 2,400 m in the main valley |
| Best months | May to September |
What is the route from Dir to Kumrat?
From Dir town you drive north-east on the road towards Sheringal. Sources give the distance as anywhere from about 30 to 35 km, and it takes one to two hours because the road is broken in places. The turn to Kumrat is at the gateway arch known as Baab-e-Kumrat near Sheringal, which is the point most guides use to mark the start of the Kumrat road.
From there the road follows the Panjkora river to Thal. Published figures for Sheringal to Thal vary from about 40 to 45 km (with a shorter dirt cut-off quoted by some), and drivers report 3 to 4 hours depending on the vehicle and the day. Thal is the last real village with a bazaar, small hotels and jeeps for hire.
The final stage from Thal into the valley is a dirt track through deodar forest along the river, commonly quoted at 30 to 45 km and about 2 hours in a jeep. Distances differ between guides because they measure to different camps, so treat every figure here as a range.
Which vehicle do you need?
The road to Thal is usable in a normal car in dry weather, though slow. Beyond Thal the track is rocky, with stream crossings, and low-clearance cars should not attempt it. Wikipedia's entry for the valley says it can only be reached by four-wheel vehicles because the road is unmetalled.
The practical choice for most families is to park at Thal and pay for a local jeep, which also avoids driving unfamiliar river crossings yourself. Jeep prices depend on season, vehicle and whether you want a return trip. Our Kumrat jeep fare guide covers what to expect, and you should always agree the full price before setting off.
How long does each stage take?
- Dir to Sheringal (Baab-e-Kumrat): 1 to 2 hours.
- Sheringal to Thal: 3 to 4 hours is the figure most often reported, longer if the road is under repair.
- Thal to Kumrat by jeep: about 1 to 2 hours to the first camps, longer to points deeper in the valley.
Add stops and a lunch break and you should expect to arrive in the afternoon if you leave Dir early. Do not plan to arrive after dark: the track has no lighting, and rivers rise in the evening in summer melt.
When to go, and what the weather does to the road
May to September is the usual window. The road can be cut by rain at any time in the monsoon: in August 2024 about 200 tourists were stranded in Kumrat when heavy rain blocked roads, and were rescued by the provincial tourism authority (Dawn, 31 August 2024). Check the forecast, and keep a spare day rather than travelling on the last day of your leave.
Winter closes the valley to ordinary visitors because of snow. Our Kumrat in winter post explains why. For the state of the track in general, see Kumrat road condition.
What to carry
- Cash: cards and ATMs do not work in Thal or the valley, and jeep drivers and camps take cash.
- Warm layers: nights at 2,400 metres are cold even in summer.
- Offline maps and a phone with a local SIM. Coverage varies by network and disappears in stretches.
- Water, snacks, a power bank and waterproofs.
If you plan to stay overnight, our camping in Kumrat guide covers the practical side. Never pitch a tent right beside the river, because the water can rise quickly.
Is the Dir to Kumrat route safe?
Upper Dir and Lower Dir are both on the UK government's list of areas where it advises against all travel, and the UK also advises against all travel on the N-45 between Mardan and Chitral, which includes the road up to Dir (advice updated September 2026). Recent attacks in the region include one at Laram Top in Lower Dir on 16 July 2026, in which three police officers were killed. Kumrat and Thal are usually described in tourist guides as calm, and Pakistani visitors do still go, but those guides are not security assessments.
Check local news and current police or district advice before setting out, and ask hotel owners in Dir or Thal about the road that morning. If you hold a foreign passport, your government's advice may say not to go, and travelling against it can void your travel insurance.
Is it worth driving from Dir?
If you are already in Dir, yes: it puts you at the valley in a day without the long haul from Swat or Islamabad. The drive is slow and tiring, and it suits people who are comfortable with rough roads, not families with very young children or anyone who gets travel sick easily. If that describes your group, consider a different valley. Our Kumrat Valley guide and the Islamabad to Kumrat route cover the wider picture, and the travel guide has general advice for the north.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Kumrat from Dir?
Roughly 100 to 130 km by road, depending on where you count the end point. Sources vary, so expect a day of driving rather than a short hop.
How long does it take to drive from Dir to Kumrat?
Usually 6 to 9 hours including the jeep stage from Thal, with the Sheringal to Thal section taking the longest.
Can I drive my own car from Dir to Kumrat?
A car can generally reach Thal in dry weather, but the track beyond is unpaved and needs a 4x4. Most people leave their car at Thal and hire a jeep.
Is there a paved road all the way to Kumrat?
No. The road deteriorates after Sheringal and the last stretch from Thal is a dirt track.
Is Kumrat safe to visit?
Tourist guides call it calm, but the UK advises against all travel to Upper Dir. Check local news and current advice before you go.
