Kumrat Valley is not accessible in winter in the way it is in summer. From roughly November to April, heavy snow closes the jeep track above Thal, the village that marks the end of the road for ordinary cars, and most of the forest camps shut for the season. Thal itself and the villages below it are lived in all year and can usually be reached by road, but a trip beyond Thal needs snow that has cleared, which is not something to plan around in advance.
This guide sets out what actually closes, what stays open, and what a winter visitor to Upper Dir can realistically do instead.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Season | Roughly November to April, weather permitting |
| What closes | The jeep track from Thal into the forest, most camps and huts |
| What may stay open | Thal village, its hotels, the road down to Dir |
| Main risk | Snow blocking the valley road itself, not just the forest track |
| Best winter option | A trip to Thal and the lower valley only, not the forest |
Why the valley closes
The Kumrat forest and its camping areas sit at around 2,400 metres, and the track that reaches them climbs out of Thal into open, exposed ground. Heavy snow settles there from around November and does not clear reliably until spring, so the unpaved jeep track becomes impassable and most of the forest huts and tented camps, which are seasonal in the first place, are taken down or shut up for the winter.
It is not only the forest track that is at risk. The valley road itself, from the turn near Dir town through Sheringal and Kalkot to Thal, runs through Dir Kohistan and can be blocked by heavy snowfall for days at a time in a hard winter, on top of the landslides and washouts that already trouble it in other seasons.
What can you actually see in winter?
Thal and the lower villages along the valley road are inhabited through the winter, and in a settled spell the road up from Dir is passable. That gives a realistic winter visitor two things: the drive itself through snow-dusted hills, and Thal village with its old wooden mosque, rather than the forest, the waterfall or Kala Chashma further up.
Snow on the peaks and the upper slopes, seen from the valley road or from Thal, is the main scenery on offer. It is a different trip from the summer one, and a shorter one, not a substitute for it.
The risks of a winter trip
Don't attempt a winter visit assuming the road will be open. Travellers have been caught out in and around Thal by snowfall closing the route back down, and once beyond Dir there is little in the way of rescue services, ATMs or fuel if you get stuck. If you do go:
- Check the road with a hotel or contact in Dir or Thal on the day, not the week before.
- Carry chains or all-season tyres if driving your own car, and don't attempt the valley road on ordinary summer tyres after fresh snow.
- Fill the tank in Dir, and carry extra fuel and warm clothing in the car in case you are held up overnight.
- Turn back rather than push on if snow starts falling while you are on the valley road.
- Keep to daylight hours only, since the road is unlit and runs above the river for long stretches.
When does the valley reopen?
The jeep track and the forest camps generally reopen from late April or through May, once the snow has cleared and camps have had time to set up again, though the exact date moves every year with the winter. Our guide to the best time to visit Kumrat covers the opening weeks and the trade-offs of an early-season trip.
Is a winter trip worth it?
For most travellers, no. The reason people come to Kumrat is the forest, the river and the high meadows above it, and none of that is reachable in winter. If snow and a quiet, closed-up mountain village is what you are after, Thal itself can be a short, low-key detour on a winter drive through Upper Dir, provided the road is confirmed open and you are prepared to turn back.
If you want a proper winter mountain trip, places built for it, with open hotels and easier road access, such as Murree, Nathia Gali or Naran's lower valley, suit the season far better. If you would like a route built around the months Kumrat is actually open, tell us your dates and we will plan around them.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kumrat Valley open in winter?
The forest above Thal is effectively closed from around November to April by snow. Thal village and the road down to Dir can usually be reached, weather permitting, but the valley's main attractions cannot.
Can you drive to Thal in winter?
Sometimes, in settled weather, but heavy snowfall can close the valley road for days. Check locally before setting out and do not rely on the route being clear.
What is there to do in Kumrat in winter?
Very little beyond the drive itself and a stop in Thal. The forest camps, the waterfall and Kala Chashma are inaccessible once the jeep track is under snow.
When does Kumrat reopen after winter?
Usually from late April or through May, depending on how quickly the snow clears. Ask a hotel or camp in Thal before travelling early in the season.
Is Dir safe for overseas visitors?
Pakistani visitors still travel to Upper and Lower Dir, including Kumrat, but as of September 2026 the UK government advises against all travel to both districts. If you hold a foreign passport, check your own government's advice before you go, because travelling against it can void your insurance. Everyone should check local news and current police advice before setting out.
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