Baltistan: Districts, Valleys and What to See

Baltistan is the eastern half of Gilgit-Baltistan: a high, dry region of roughly 30,000 square kilometres along the upper Indus, with Skardu as its capital and K2 on its northern edge. It is home to the Balti people and is divided into five districts: Skardu, Shigar, Ghanche (Khaplu), Kharmang and Roundu. Most visitors see it as a loop of Skardu, the lakes, Shigar and Khaplu, with Deosai added in summer.

This guide explains how the region is laid out, what each valley is actually like, and how to decide where to spend your days. It is a map of the region rather than an itinerary, so it links out to detail wherever a place has its own guide.

What and where is Baltistan?

Baltistan is a mountain region that borders Xinjiang in China to the north and Indian-administered Ladakh to the south-east. Its average altitude is above 3,350 metres. The Indus runs through it in a narrow gorge and widens after the Shyok River joins it, which is why the valley floors around Skardu are broad enough to farm and to land aircraft.

It has more than 20 peaks above 6,100 metres, and the Baltoro Glacier, about 56 kilometres long, is one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions. Most of this is reached only on foot. What ordinary visitors see are the valleys below it: orchards, old forts, cold-desert dunes and turquoise lakes with snow peaks behind them.

The region was historically called Little Tibet, and the architecture, language and place names still show the connection with Ladakh and Tibet. Our short history of Baltistan covers how it became part of Pakistan; this guide sticks to what you can visit.

The five districts of Baltistan

Baltistan Division was restored as an administrative unit in 2008 and now has five districts. Shigar and Roundu were carved out of Skardu district in 2019, so older maps and articles show fewer.

Skardu district is the largest by area at about 10,000 square kilometres, followed by Ghanche. Kharmang is the least populated in proportion to its size, and Wikipedia's district page notes that over 90 per cent of it is permanently under snow.

Skardu: the base for everything

Skardu sits at about 2,228 metres on the Indus and is where nearly every Baltistan trip starts. It has the region's airport, the widest choice of hotels and restaurants, and day trips in every direction. Summer temperatures run from around 8 to 27 degrees Celsius, and winters are severe, with nights that can drop below minus 10.

The sights within an hour or so are Sadpara Lake, the Lower Kachura lakes near Shangrila Resort, the ruined Kharpocho Fort above the town, and the sand dunes of the Katpana cold desert. Our guide to places to visit in Skardu covers each in turn, and the Skardu destination page has the overview.

Skardu is also the gateway to the Karakoram trekking country. The road east of Shigar ends at Askole, where the walk to K2 base camp begins, and Hushe near Khaplu is the start for Masherbrum-area treks.

Deosai: the high plateau above Skardu

The Deosai Plains lie south-west of Skardu at an average altitude above 4,000 metres, on a plateau of roughly 3,000 square kilometres. The road is closed by snow for roughly half the year, from about November to May, and opens to jeeps in summer. In July and August the grass is covered in wildflowers and the Himalayan brown bear is the park's best-known animal.

Deosai belongs to Skardu district on the map but is a trip in its own right, with a jeep, a full day and warm clothes. Start with our Deosai National Park guide and the Skardu and Deosai tour if you would rather have it arranged.

Shigar: fort, orchards and the road to K2

Shigar is a green valley on the Shigar River, north-east of Skardu, with cherry, apple, apricot and mulberry trees around its villages. Its centrepiece is Shigar Fort, a restored Balti fort that is now a heritage hotel and museum. Polo, described as the national game of Baltistan, is played on village grounds here as in the rest of the region.

Beyond Shigar the valley narrows and the road turns to a rough track to Askole, the last village before the mountains. Visitors without trekking plans usually stop at Shigar, the fort and the quiet villages around it. See places to visit in Shigar Valley and Shigar Fort.

Khaplu: palace, mosques and the Hushe road

Khaplu is at about 2,600 metres, roughly 100 kilometres east of Skardu on the Shyok River, and was once the second-largest kingdom in Baltistan. Its Khaplu Palace is described as the last and best Tibetan-style palace in Pakistan, and the Chaqchan Mosque dates from the 14th century. Both are among the most photographed old buildings in the north.

Khaplu is where many people find the region more rewarding than Skardu itself: quieter, greener in summer and with fewer coaches. The Hushe valley beyond it looks up at Masherbrum. Allow at least a night, ideally two. Our guide to Skardu to Khaplu covers the drive, and places to visit in Khaplu covers what to see.

Kharmang and Roundu: the quiet ends

Kharmang district has its headquarters at Tolti, south-east of Skardu, on the Indus close to the Indian-administered Ladakh border. It has far fewer hotels and services than Skardu, and most travellers pass through rather than stay. Kharmang Fort is the main landmark, described in our Kharmang Fort guide and in places to visit in Kharmang.

Roundu lies north-west of Skardu and is a district of mountain villages more than sights. Unless you are trekking or have a specific reason, you are unlikely to plan around it.

How to get to Baltistan

There are three ways in.

• Fly to Skardu. Flights run from Islamabad, and the airport was upgraded to international status in December 2021. Mountain flights depend on clear weather, so build in a spare day at both ends.
• Drive the Gilgit to Skardu road. Skardu is roughly 170 to 180 kilometres from the Karakoram Highway, along the Indus. Most of it is paved but it is narrow and exposed to landslides, so allow a full day from Gilgit.
• Drive over Deosai from Astore, in summer only, on a rough jeep track.

Our Skardu by road or flight post compares the first two in detail.

Best time to visit Baltistan

April to October is the main season. April and May bring orchard blossom in the low valleys, while the high roads and Deosai are still under snow. June to September is the reliable window for everything, including Deosai and the treks. October is cold at night and quieter, with autumn colour in Shigar and Khaplu.

Winter is possible in Skardu and Khaplu but many guesthouses close, flights are cancelled often and the road from Gilgit can be blocked by snow or slides. See when to go for how the seasons compare across the north.

Is Baltistan safe?

Gilgit-Baltistan is not on the UK government's list of areas it advises against travelling to, and Pakistani families travel to Skardu, Shigar and Khaplu every summer. The main risks are the road and the weather: landslides, flight cancellations and altitude.

One route to check is the one you use to arrive. The UK advises against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas, which is the usual road from Islamabad to Gilgit. Flying to Skardu avoids it, and in summer the Babusar route is the alternative. Holders of foreign passports should read their own government's advice before booking, because travelling against it can void travel insurance. Kharmang borders the Indian-controlled area, so ask locally before heading that far south-east.

Which part of Baltistan suits you?

• Four or five days, first visit: Skardu, Sadpara, the Kachura lakes and Shigar, with Deosai if it is summer.
• A week or more: add two nights in Khaplu and the Hushe road, and Deosai as a separate day.
• Trekkers: Skardu is the base, with Askole for K2 and Hushe for Masherbrum. Permits and guides are needed for the higher routes.
• Families with older parents: keep to Skardu, Shigar and Khaplu. Deosai at over 4,000 metres and the long drives need thought.
• Anyone short of time: do not try to see Khaplu and Deosai in two days. Pick one.

Frequently asked questions