Upper Chitral

Turikho Valley Guide: Booni to Tirich Mir

A guide to the Turikho valley in Upper Chitral: how its lower and upper parts are laid out, the road from Booni, villages, stays, treks and safety advice.

By Explore Pakistan · Published 25 September 2026 · 7 min read

The Turikho valley is a river valley of about 100 km in Upper Chitral, running north-east from the Chitral river near Booni toward the Hindu Raj, with the Tirich valley and its glaciers branching off beneath Tirich Mir (7,708 metres). Its lower part is called Mulkhow and its upper part Rich. It is a place for people who want villages, orchards and trekking trailheads away from the main road, and who accept narrow jeep tracks and basic lodging in return.

This guide is about the valley as a whole: how it is divided, how people get in, which villages matter, where you can stay and what the treks from it look like. For the trek to the mountain itself, see our Tirich Mir base camp trek guide.

At a glance
LengthAbout 100 km
Lower partMulkhow
Upper partRich (the Rich Gol)
Main side valleysTirich, Rich, Torkhow
Gateway townBooni, about 2,060 m
RoadNarrow jeep roads; rough in places
Main trek seasonJune to September

How the valley is laid out

The Turikho river flows through deep gorges with cultivated terraces along the banks, and several valleys join it. Local and trekking sources describe both the Tirich and Rich valleys as parts of the Turikho system.

  • Mulkhow is the lower section. It is also an administrative unit: Upper Chitral district has two tehsils, Buni and Mulkoh. Our Mulkhow valley guide covers its history and villages.
  • Tirich is the side valley that leads to the Tirich glacier and the base camps of Tirich Mir. Zandrangram is its central village, with a small bazaar, a petrol dispenser and a primary school, and Shahgrom is the last village.
  • Rich is the upper section, ending at Rua, where the Shah Jinali pass trek begins. See our Shah Jinali Pass trek guide.
  • Torkhow is the neighbouring valley reached from Booni. It has its own guide, Torkhow valley.

The road in

Almost everyone enters from Booni, the district headquarters, which is on the Chitral–Mastuj road. From there, jeep tracks branch off to the Tirich and Rich valleys. One trekking guide gives about an hour by jeep from Booni to Nishkoh, a junction village with a wooden suspension bridge over the Turikho river.

The Chitral–Mastuj road is paved but narrow, about one vehicle wide in places, and the side roads beyond it are rougher. Chitral news reports in 2025 and 2026 describe the Booni–Buzund road and the Torkhow and Tirich access roads as badly in need of repair, and local forums have held road protests. A drive that should take two hours can take far longer, so keep a spare day.

Hire a local jeep and driver for the side valleys. Our Chitral jeep rental guide explains how this normally works, and our Booni guide covers the town you will start from.

Villages worth knowing

  • Nishkoh: the junction where the valley roads divide, with its suspension bridge.
  • Zandrangram: the main village of the Tirich valley, with basic supplies and fuel.
  • Shahgrom: the last village of the valley, at about 2,890 metres, It is also the usual start of the walk to Tirich Mir base camp, via the summer pastures of Bandok (Sheinyak, around 3,500 metres) and the Istr-o-Nal base camp at Shogor Biasin (about 4,040 metres).

Most villages are Khowar-speaking farming settlements with terraced fields of wheat and fruit trees. The valley was a source of porters, guides and cooks for mountaineering expeditions to Tirich Mir and Noshaq, and one local tourism site notes that foreign visitor numbers have fallen because of security concerns.

Where to stay

There are few hotels. The usual choices are:

  • Tirich Mir Rest House in Shahgrom, described by one source as sleeping about 12 people, with beds, mattresses and camping space.
  • Village houses. Trekkers have reported staying in family homes in places such as Phargram, Shagrom and Lajward when on the trail. Arrange this through your driver or guide beforehand, and offer a fair payment.
  • Camping, at traditional sites in the villages and pastures. Deh in the Tirich valley is mentioned as a good camp site.
  • Booni or Chitral town, where hotels are more reliable. See our hotels in Chitral guide.

Treks that start in the valley

The valley is a base for several routes. The famous one is Tirich Mir base camp. Others are the Zani pass crossing from Uthool in Mulkhow to Shahgrom (see our Zani Pass trek guide) and the Shah Jinali crossing from Rua to Yashkist. A 2021 account by a Chitral writer describes a four-day loop from Booni over the Zani pass, through the Tirich valley, and back to Booni via Torkhow and Werkup, partly by hired jeep and public transport.

Most trekking happens from June to September. The valleys lie in high mountain country, so expect cold nights at the upper camps even in July.

Is it safe? UK advice and what to check

Upper Chitral's valleys are not named individually in the UK government's Pakistan travel advice (updated 22 September 2026), but the advice is relevant here. It advises against all travel on the N45 from Mardan to Chitral city, including the Kalash valleys, against all travel within 10 miles of the Afghan border, and against all travel to Upper and Lower Dir and Swat. The head of the Rich valley is near the Wakhan border, and the usual road from Islamabad passes through Dir.

Pakistani visitors still travel to Chitral, but Khyber Pakhtunkhwa has seen a string of attacks in 2026, including in Lower Dir in July. Check local news and current police advice before you leave, and register at checkposts as asked. Our guide to whether Chitral is safe covers the road options. If you hold a foreign passport, your government's advice may say not to go, which can void travel insurance.

There are also non-security delays. In late August 2026, residents blocked the Chitral–Mastuj road at Reshun for around a day to protest electricity shortages, stranding travellers on both sides. Roads in Upper Chitral can close with little warning, so keep a buffer.

Who the valley suits

It suits people who like slow travel, are happy in simple lodgings and want to go beyond the tourist routes of the Kalash valleys. It is a good base for a trekking party with a guide.

It does not suit anyone on a tight schedule, anyone who needs hotel standards, or a family with small children who cannot manage long, bumpy jeep rides. If you only have a few days in Chitral, see our places to visit in Chitral and the Upper Chitral road trip guide, then come back to Turikho on a longer trip. More ideas are on our destinations page.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the Turikho valley?

In Upper Chitral, running north-east from near Booni. It is about 100 km long and divides into Mulkhow in the lower part and Rich in the upper.

How do I get to the Turikho valley from Chitral?

By road to Booni on the Chitral–Mastuj road, then by jeep up the side valleys. One guide gives about an hour from Booni to Nishkoh, and further on the roads are slower.

Where is Tirich Mir in relation to Turikho?

Tirich Mir (7,708 metres) rises above the Tirich side valley. Shahgrom is the last village, and the trek to base camp starts there.

Is there accommodation in Turikho?

Limited. There is a rest house at Shahgrom, family homes along trek routes and camping. Hotels are in Booni and Chitral town.

When is the best time to visit the Turikho valley?

June to September for trekking, when the passes are open. The villages are lower and can be visited outside that period, but roads and weather are less predictable.

Is the Turikho valley safe to visit?

Pakistani visitors do travel there, but the UK advises against all travel near the Afghan border and on the N45, and 2026 has seen attacks elsewhere in the province. Check current advice and local news before travelling.

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