Mulkhow, also written Mulkho or Mulkoh, is the lower part of the Turikho valley in Upper Chitral, about 84 km north of Chitral town by one local source. It is a valley of farming villages, orchards and old fort ruins that Chitrali tradition names as the first settled area of the region, and it is the base for the walk over the Zani pass into the Tirich valley. There are no formal sights to tick off. The reason to come is to see how people live in upper Chitral and to reach the trails behind the villages.
This guide covers what the name means, the main villages, the history people tell about the place, how to get there and how to use it as a base. The broader valley system is in our Turikho valley guide.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Lower Turikho, Upper Chitral |
| Distance from Chitral | About 84 km north (local source) |
| Neighbours | Terich to the north, Kosht to the west, Qaqlasht plateau to the east |
| Villages in the union council | 12 revenue villages |
| Best known for | Early settlement, Khowar heritage, Zani pass start |
| Trek season | June to September |
What does Mulkhow mean?
The word is used for two things, and sources mix them.
- A valley. Mulkhow is the lower section of the roughly 100 km Turikho valley. The upper section is called Rich.
- An administrative area. Upper Chitral district was created in November 2018 and has two tehsils, Buni and Mulkoh. Mulkhow is also a union council, which one Chitral writer describes as having 12 revenue villages: Kushum Bala, Kushum Payeen, Saht Bala, Saht Payeen, Gaht, Warijun Bala, Warijun Payeen, Zaini, Samagol, Nogram, Shunu and Uthool.
The name also reflects the Khow people, whom Wikipedia says make up 99.84 per cent of Upper Chitral's population (2023 census), and the Khowar language they speak.
The history people tell
Chitral Today's village series, written by a local, says that according to the New Tareekh-e-Chitral, Mulkhow ("Lower Khow") is where immigrants from Central Asia first settled, between about 2000 and 1500 BC, and that it was the capital of the state until the Kalash arrived from Bashgal (in present-day Nuristan, Afghanistan) in the last decade of the 10th century. This is oral and local-historical tradition, not archaeology, so take the dates as the community's account rather than an established record.
Two things you can see:
- The Khow Bokht (Khow Stone) in Saht Payeen village, regarded locally as the origin point of the Khowar language.
- Drasun Fort, the only one of seven fort ruins in the area still standing, built under the ruler Muhtaram Shah II, who ruled from 1788 to 1838, according to the same source.
Ask permission before visiting any private or community site, and ask a local to show you the stone or the fort. Neither has formal opening hours or a ticket office.
How to get there
Mulkhow lies off the Chitral–Mastuj road. Booni, the district headquarters at about 2,060 metres, is the nearest town, and our Booni guide covers it. From Booni a jeep route runs through Warinjun, Khoragol, Dokoot, Istaboon and Phargram to Uthool, according to a 2021 trekker's account.
The Chitral–Mastuj road itself is narrow and one source calls it carpeted but only one vehicle wide in places. Chitral news in 2026 describes the main Upper Chitral roads as badly damaged, with routine journeys of two hours stretching to six. Allow extra time, and see our Chitral to Mastuj road guide for the main highway.
Staying and eating
Mulkhow has no tourist hotels that we could verify. The options for visitors are:
- A hotel in Booni or Chitral town, and a day trip in a hired jeep. See hotels in Chitral.
- Homestays arranged through a driver, guide or contact, which is how trekkers have stayed in villages such as Phargram.
- Camping near Uthool, which a trekker described as a green hamlet with fruit trees and the usual camp for the Zani pass.
Bring cash and your own supplies for any overnight trek.
Walks and treks from Mulkhow
- Zani pass: a crossing from Uthool in Mulkhow to Shahgrom in the Tirich valley, with the pass at around 3,840 metres, according to operators. Our Zani Pass trek guide has the detail.
- Qaqlasht meadows: an upland meadow described as at about 2,500 metres and about 80 km from Chitral, east of Mulkhow. One tourism site says it is best from May to October.
- Village walks: the paths between fields and orchards are the simplest way to see the valley.
For the high peaks, the Tirich Mir base camp trek guide covers the route from the next valley.
Is it safe? UK advice and what to check
The UK government's Pakistan travel advice (updated 22 September 2026) does not name Mulkhow, but it advises against all travel on the N45 from Mardan to Chitral city, against all travel within 10 miles of the Afghan border, and against all travel to Upper and Lower Dir and Swat. Most overland routes to Chitral pass through Dir.
Pakistani visitors still travel in Chitral, but the province has had attacks in 2026, including in Lower Dir in July. Check local news and police advice before leaving Chitral. Foreign visitors should check their government's advice, which may say not to go and can void travel insurance. Our guide to whether Chitral is safe covers this in more detail.
In late August 2026 residents blocked the Chitral–Mastuj road at Reshun for about a day over electricity prices. Roads here close with little warning, so keep a spare day.
Is it worth visiting?
For a short trip, no: Chitral fort, the Kalash valleys and the road to Shandur are easier to reach. For anyone with time who is interested in Chitral's culture and history, or who wants to start a trek, it is a good place to spend a night or two. Come with a local contact. See our Upper Chitral road trip guide for a route that includes it, and our destinations page for other places.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Mulkhow valley?
In Upper Chitral, as the lower section of the Turikho valley. One local source places Mulkhow about 84 km north of Chitral town.
What is Mulkhow known for?
Chitral tradition names it as the first settled area of the region and its early capital. It also has the Khow Stone, linked to the Khowar language, and Drasun Fort.
Is Mulkhow the same as Turikho?
Not quite. Mulkhow is the lower part of the Turikho valley, while the upper part is called Rich. Mulkhow is also the name of a tehsil and union council.
How do I get to Mulkhow?
By road to Booni on the Chitral–Mastuj road, then by jeep through villages such as Warinjun and Phargram to Uthool. Roads are narrow and rough in places.
Are there hotels in Mulkhow?
We could not verify any tourist hotels. Most visitors stay in Booni or Chitral town, or arrange village homestays or camping.
Is Mulkhow safe to visit?
Pakistani visitors do travel there, but the UK advises against travel on the N45 and near the Afghan border. Check current advice and local news first.
