Thoksikhar Mosque (also written Thoqsi Khar or Thoqsikhar) stands on a rocky summit at about 2,700 metres above Khaplu, and reaching it is one of the few proper hikes you can do from the town in an afternoon. The usual trail starts at Gharbuchang village at the foot of the hill. Most accounts put the climb from there at 40 to 60 minutes and describe it as short but steep, ending at a mosque and a lookout over Khaplu, the Shyok River and the peaks beyond.
This guide covers where the trail starts, how long it takes, what you can see, and what to know about visiting a working place of worship.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Elevation | About 2,700 m |
| Trailhead | Gharbuchang village, at the base of the hill |
| Climb from Gharbuchang | About 45 minutes to an hour, steep in the upper half |
| On foot from Khaplu town | About 3 to 4 hours (one trekking guide) |
| Age of the mosque | 14th century, per Wikipedia; sources vary |
| Facilities | None on the way; take water and snacks |
What is Thoksikhar Mosque?
Thoksikhar is a khanqah, a Sufi-style mosque and meeting place, built from stone and wood on the summit of a rocky hill in the Khaplu valley. Wikipedia dates it to the 14th century, and one trekking guide gives 1327-28 CE and credits Raja Boa Mahdi. A visiting photographer's account calls it about 500 years old, so treat the age as approximate. All sources agree that it is old, built in the traditional Balti way with wooden pillars, doors and windows, and still in use.
The mosque is looked after by the local community, so it is not a museum. People come to pray here, and you are a guest.
How to get to the trailhead
Gharbuchang (sometimes spelled Garbonchon) is the last settlement along the Ghanche river on this side of the valley. Hotels in Khaplu can arrange a car to the village, and a driver will know the way. The alternative is walking the whole route from Khaplu, which a trekking guide puts at three to four hours in total, split into three sections: Khaplu to Gharbuchang, Gharbuchang to a hamlet called Chongchorong, and a final steep ascent.
For most people the sensible plan is to drive to Gharbuchang and hike from there. That leaves enough energy for the summit and the walk back down.
The hike, step by step
- Gharbuchang to the fields. The first stretch is gentle. You walk through the village and its fields, and a photographer who did the climb described the first five minutes as easy.
- The steep middle. The same account describes the next 40 minutes as steep, with frequent stops to catch breath. At 2,700 metres you are climbing above the Khaplu valley floor, so it feels harder than the distance suggests.
- The final ascent. The last section is a narrow ridge that a trekking guide calls the "camel neck", with safety grilles fitted along it.
- The mosque and lookout. A short further walk takes you to a viewpoint over the valley.
Time estimates vary: a local guide told one visitor 45 minutes, while a travel site describes a 20-minute hike to the viewpoint. The difference is where people start counting. Allow an hour up from Gharbuchang, 30 to 40 minutes down, and time for rest and photographs.
What you can see from the top
The view covers Khaplu town, the Shyok River, the old fort and palace area below, and the Shabshi polo ground. A trekking guide adds Masherbrum (7,821 m) on a clear day. Our Masherbrum guide covers the peak itself. The top is also dark at night, and the same guide notes stargazing is excellent at this height.
Morning and late afternoon give the best light, and in autumn the poplars and orchards below turn yellow and gold. See our Khaplu in autumn guide.
What to carry
- Water and snacks. There are no shops on the way, so buy supplies in Khaplu. You can refill bottles at streams, but treat the water first.
- Shoes with grip. The upper trail is steep and loose in places. One visitor recommends hiking boots.
- Warm layer and sun protection. It is exposed at the top and the wind picks up.
- Cash for tea, if offered. One visitor was served green tea on a terrace on the way down; treat any such offer as hospitality and thank people properly.
Visiting respectfully
This is an active place of worship. Dress modestly, cover your head if asked, and check with people nearby before entering. Ask before photographing people. Leave no rubbish, and take your plastic back down.
Best season
The trail is easiest from late spring to autumn. Khaplu has heavy snow and temperatures that can drop below -20 C in winter, according to a trekking guide, so the hill is not a good idea in snow or ice. For the full picture see the best time to visit Khaplu.
Who should do this hike, and who should skip it
It suits fit walkers and families with older children, anyone who wants a view of Khaplu from above, and travellers who have already seen Khaplu Palace and Chaqchan Mosque. It is not suitable for people with heart or knee trouble, small children who cannot manage steep ground, or anyone arriving straight from Skardu unacclimatised. In wet or icy weather, leave it.
If you have only one afternoon, our places to visit in Khaplu puts it among the other sights, and our Skardu hub covers the wider region.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the hike to Thoksikhar Mosque?
About 45 minutes to an hour up from Gharbuchang village, and a little less down. Walking from Khaplu town takes three to four hours in total.
How high is Thoksikhar Mosque?
About 2,700 metres above sea level, on a rocky summit above the Khaplu valley.
Is the Thoksikhar hike difficult?
It is short but steep, especially in the middle section, and the last stretch is a narrow ridge with safety grilles. Most reasonably fit people manage it with rests.
How old is Thoksikhar Mosque?
Wikipedia says 14th century, and one guide gives 1327-28 CE. Other visitors describe it as about 500 years old, so the exact date is uncertain.
Is there an entry fee?
One travel site lists the viewpoint hike as free. Bring a little cash in case of local arrangements, and pay what is asked for any service.
Can I visit in winter?
Not safely in snow or ice. Khaplu winters are severe, so go from late spring to autumn.
