The Thalle valley turns north off the Skardu–Khaplu road at Doghoni, a few kilometres short of Khaplu, and climbs through villages and orchards into open pasture below the Thalle La, the pass that trekkers cross to reach Shigar. It is a quieter alternative to the Hushe road: a jeep track rather than a paved road, fewer visitors, and a valley used mostly by herders and trekking parties.
This guide covers the road in, what the valley is like, and the trek over the Thalle La for anyone with more time.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | West of Khaplu, off the Skardu–Khaplu road at Doghoni |
| From Khaplu | About 15 km to the valley mouth, then a jeep track further in |
| Access | Jeep track; a normal car is not suitable beyond the lower villages |
| Thalle La | A trekking pass to Shigar, reported around 4,572 m |
| Trek length | About 7 days, Khaplu side to Shigar |
| Best months | June to September |
| Signal | Very limited beyond the lower villages |
Where is the Thalle valley?
The valley runs north-west from the Shyok river, about 15 km west of Khaplu, opening out at Doghoni on the main Skardu–Khaplu road. From there a side track climbs up the valley through a string of villages and fields, with the valley eventually splitting into two branches higher up. One branch leads towards the seldom-crossed Tusserpo La; the easier and better-known route is the Thalle La, which drops down the other side into the Shigar valley.
In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, this was the preferred route between Skardu and Khaplu for travellers on foot and pack animals, valued for its grazing, before the modern road along the Shyok was built.
Driving into the valley
A jeep road follows the valley up from Doghoni past its villages towards the higher pastures. The lower stretch is manageable in an ordinary car in good weather; beyond that, hire a jeep with a local driver in Khaplu, as you would for the Hushe valley. The going gets rougher the further you drive, and the track can be affected by stream crossings after rain or snowmelt.
What you see on the way:
- Villages and orchards in the lower valley, similar in character to Machulu and the lower Hushe valley.
- Open green pasture higher up, used for grazing through the summer.
- Quiet. Thalle sees far fewer visitors than the Hushe road, and most of the people you meet will be herders or trekking parties rather than other tourists.
The Thalle La trek
For trekkers, Thalle is best known as one side of the route over the Thalle La to Shigar, generally run as a mild, roughly week-long trek and considered one of the more approachable introductions to trekking in the Karakoram. Parties typically drive up the valley from Doghoni to the roadhead, then walk over the pass and down into the Shigar valley on the far side, or the reverse.
It needs the same preparation as any multi-day trek in the region: a guide, camping equipment, and enough time built in for bad weather. June to September is the working season, when the pass is clear of the heaviest snow.
Is Thalle worth the detour?
For trekkers planning the Skardu–Shigar–Khaplu area, yes. The Thalle La is a genuine link between two of Baltistan's main valleys, with a lower level of difficulty than most Karakoram passes, and the valley itself is a quiet change from the busier Hushe road.
For a day out from Khaplu, it is a longer commitment than most visitors want. There is no single sight to aim for, and the reward is the pasture and the quiet rather than a landmark. If you have only a day or two in Khaplu, the palace, the Chaqchan Mosque and a run up to Saling and Machulu make better use of the time; see our guide to places to visit in Khaplu. Thalle suits travellers with a trek planned, or a genuine interest in the quieter valleys.
If you are weighing up a Thalle La trek as part of a longer Baltistan trip, get in touch through our trip planning page and we can help fit it around your dates.
Frequently asked questions
Where does the Thalle valley start?
At Doghoni, on the Skardu–Khaplu road, a few kilometres short of Khaplu town.
Can a normal car drive into the Thalle valley?
Only the lower stretch. Beyond the first villages the track needs a jeep, best hired with a local driver in Khaplu.
How long is the Thalle La trek?
Trekking operators generally run the Khaplu-to-Shigar route as about a week, crossing the Thalle La partway through.
When is the best time to visit the Thalle valley?
June to September, when the jeep track is clear and, for trekkers, the Thalle La is passable.
Is the Thalle valley busy with tourists?
No. It sees far fewer visitors than the Hushe road out of Khaplu, and is used mainly by local herders and trekking parties.
