Khaplu in autumn is at its best from around the third week of October into the first days of November. The poplars along the Shyok turn gold, and the apricot, mulberry and other orchard trees go orange, red and copper against bare brown mountains and early snow on the peaks. The air is dry and clear, the summer visitors have gone, and the palace gardens are quiet. The price is cold: nights near or below freezing by the end of October.
The exact timing moves with the weather each year, so treat any date as the middle of a window. This guide covers when the colour turns, where to see it, what the weather is like, and how to plan a quiet autumn stay.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Colour season | Roughly the third week of October to early November |
| Leaves mostly down | By mid to late November |
| Weather | Dry and mostly clear; cold mornings and nights |
| Temperatures | Skardu averages about 20 °C by day and 4 °C at night in October; Khaplu, about 400 m higher, is colder |
| Daylight | Sunset a little after 5 pm, earlier behind the mountains |
| Skardu to Khaplu road | Open; start early to drive in daylight |
| Crowds | Few, apart from the odd holiday weekend |
| Deosai | Usually closed by late October |
When do the colours peak in Khaplu?
Autumn colour in Baltistan follows the first cold nights. In Skardu and Shigar the poplars turn through the second half of October. Khaplu, at about 2,600 metres, sits a little higher than Skardu, and its colour arrives over much the same weeks, usually at its fullest from around the third week of October into early November.
Within that window each village has its own best week. A windy spell or a hard frost can strip the trees in a few days; a mild autumn can stretch the colour well into November. Higher villages up the Hushe valley tend to turn a little earlier than Khaplu itself.
By the second half of November most leaves are down. In the villages around Khaplu that is when the next part of autumn begins: from late November, families gather the fallen, dried leaves to burn for warmth through the winter, in one of the coldest districts in Pakistan.
If you are comparing places for an autumn trip, Hunza's colour runs over similar weeks, starting in Gojal in mid-October. Our Hunza in autumn guide has the dates there.
Where to see the colour
- The drive up the Shyok. The road from Skardu passes a string of orchard villages, Keris, Ghowari and Yugo among them, where lines of poplar stand out gold against the sand and rock. The drive is at its best in the morning light.
- Khaplu Palace and its gardens. The palace grounds are laid out as a Mughal-style garden, planted with apricot, cherry and mulberry trees, which turn orange and gold around the palace in late October.
- Thoqsikhar. The walk up to the old fort site above town, 40 minutes to an hour each way, gives the widest view: the whole of Khaplu's orchards, the broad bed of the Shyok and the mountains across the river.
- Saling and Machulu. Across the river, the orchards of Saling and the terraced fields of Machulu, part way up the Hushe road, are quieter still. Machulu needs a jeep.
Our guide to places to visit in Khaplu covers each of these in more detail.
The palace in autumn
Late October is one of the best times to see Khaplu Palace. The summer crowds are gone, the light is low and golden through the afternoon, and the gardens are at their most colourful. Day visitors still pay an entry fee at the gate for the grounds and museum.
If you want to stay in the palace itself, this is also the season when its six old-palace rooms are in demand, so book early. Visitors have stayed there in November, but the hotel has been reported to close for the winter and doesn't publish its dates. If you are planning a stay from November on, ring the hotel to confirm it is open.
Weather and what to pack
Autumn in Baltistan is dry and usually settled, with long spells of clear sky. Skardu's averages give a guide: about 20 °C by day and 4 °C at night in October, and about 13 °C by day and −2 °C at night in November. Khaplu is some 400 metres higher and noticeably colder, especially once the sun leaves the valley in the afternoon. Our Skardu weather by month guide has the full figures.
What that means in practice:
- Mornings are cold until the sun clears the mountains, and frost is common by the end of October.
- The middle of the day is pleasant in the sun, and a sweater is often enough.
- Evenings drop fast. The sun sets a little after 5 pm by the calendar, earlier behind the ridges, and the temperature falls with it.
Pack for both ends of the day:
- A warm jacket, a fleece or sweater, and thermal layers for the evening
- A woollen hat and gloves
- Sunglasses and sunscreen for the clear days
- Comfortable shoes with grip for Thoqsikhar and the village lanes
- A power bank and a torch, since power cuts are more frequent as it gets colder
Getting there in autumn
Flights from Islamabad to Skardu run through the autumn, but cloud can still cancel them, so keep a spare day at the end of the trip. By road, Babusar Top begins to close in October, so plan to come up the Karakoram Highway through Chilas and the Jaglot–Skardu road instead.
The Skardu–Khaplu road is open all year and in good autumn weather is an easy three-hour drive. With the short days, leave Skardu by 8 am and aim to arrive or return well before dark.
Quiet stays: where to stay and what is open
Autumn is quiet in Khaplu, and rooms are easier to find than in summer. Not every place stays open late in the season, though, so before you book, check:
- That the place is open on your dates, especially in November.
- How the room is heated, and whether the heating costs extra.
- Whether there is power backup, and for which hours.
- Whether dinner is available, or needs ordering in advance.
Our guide to hotels in Khaplu covers the palace, the PTDC motel and the guesthouses in detail.
The best way to see Khaplu in autumn is slowly. Two nights give you time for the palace in afternoon light, an early walk up Thoqsikhar, and a morning in the orchards at Saling, without driving in the dark. A day trip from Skardu is possible, but in late October it is a long day with a dusk drive home.
Who is Khaplu in autumn for?
It suits photographers, couples and anyone who wants the north without the crowds. It is also a good autumn choice for families, provided everyone has warm clothes and you keep the evenings indoors.
It suits less well anyone who wants to trek from Hushe, since the high routes are effectively over by October, or anyone who wants Deosai, which is usually closed by late October. It is also not the trip for people who feel the cold badly and dislike early nights.
What to pair it with: Skardu and Shigar, whose poplars turn over the same weeks, make the most natural combination. For more on how the seasons play out across the north, see our guide to when to go.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to see autumn colours in Khaplu?
Usually from around the third week of October into early November. The exact timing varies with the weather each year, and a frost or strong wind can end it early.
How cold is Khaplu in October?
Days are often mild and sunny, but nights are cold and frost is common by the end of the month. Skardu, 400 metres lower, averages about 20 °C by day and 4 °C at night in October.
Is the road to Khaplu open in autumn?
Yes. The Skardu–Khaplu road is open all year, and in autumn it is usually dry and clear. Drive in daylight, since the sun sets a little after 5 pm.
Is Khaplu Palace open in October and November?
October is normally fine, and visitors have stayed there in November. The hotel has been reported to close for winter, so for November or later, ring first to confirm.
Is Khaplu crowded in autumn?
No. Autumn is one of the quietest times to visit, apart from the occasional long weekend, and it is easier to find a room than in summer.