Month by month, Kumrat weather at Thal, the last village, is warm by day and cool by night from May to September, wet in July and August when the monsoon reaches Upper Dir, and cold enough for snow to close the valley above Thal from around November to April. Thal sits at about 2,050 metres, so in a typical June its afternoons are in the high 20s, a few degrees cooler than Dir town; in November days are in the mid-teens and nights drop below freezing. Kala Chashma and the forest camps, higher up the jeep track, are colder still at every time of year.
There is no weather station with published records inside the valley, so the table below gives the long-term averages for Dir town (1,420 metres), the nearest station with published figures, from NOAA data for 1971 to 1990 as listed on Wikipedia. The next section explains how to adjust them for Thal and Kala Chashma. For when to actually go, see our guide to the best time to visit Kumrat; our guide to the seasons covers the rest of the north.
| Month | Dir town day / night | Rain at Dir | Valley status above Thal |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | 11°C / -2°C | 121 mm | Closed, snowbound |
| February | 12°C / -1°C | 177 mm | Closed, snowbound |
| March | 16°C / 3°C | 254 mm, the wettest month | Closed, snowbound |
| April | 23°C / 8°C | 178 mm | Track often still closed |
| May | 28°C / 12°C | 86 mm | Opening, muddy early on |
| June | 32°C / 16°C | 54 mm | Fully open, driest of summer |
| July | 31°C / 19°C | 160 mm | Open, monsoon risk |
| August | 30°C / 18°C | 169 mm | Open, monsoon risk |
| September | 29°C / 14°C | 84 mm | Open, quieter and drier |
| October | 25°C / 7°C | 50 mm, the driest month | Open early, closing by snow later |
| November | 20°C / 2°C | 58 mm | Usually closed above Thal |
| December | 14°C / -1°C | 90 mm | Closed, snowbound |
Weather now in Kumrat Valley 2,400 m
Live weather loads here.
When it snows: Snow closes the valley above Thal roughly November to March. More on the seasons
Forecast from MET Norway (CC BY 4.0), updated every 30 minutes. Mountain weather changes fast: check again before you set off.
Thal and Kala Chashma: adjusting for height
Air cools by roughly 6 degrees for every 1,000 metres you climb, which is a rule of thumb rather than a measurement but holds well enough for planning. Thal is about 600 metres above Dir town, so take 3 to 4 degrees off the Dir figures for Thal. The forest camps, at around 2,400 metres, are about 1,000 metres above Dir, so take off about 6 degrees.
Kala Chashma, the spring near the head of the jeep track roughly 18 to 20 km beyond Thal, is further up the valley and higher again, and it sits in deep forest beside cold meltwater. Expect it to feel colder than the camps, especially in the shade and once the afternoon wind picks up. There is no signal there, so check the weather in Thal before the jeep leaves. Our Kala Chashma guide covers the ride and the walk.
Winter: December to February
This is the cold season proper. Thal itself stays lived in, with day temperatures that can feel mild in the sun, but nights fall well below freezing and heavy snow settles above the village. The jeep track into the forest is under snow and effectively closed, and the road up to Thal itself can be blocked for days after a heavy fall. This is not a season to plan a Kumrat trip around; see our guide to Kumrat in winter for what is realistically possible.
Spring: March to May
March and April bring the heaviest rain of the year lower down the valley, while the forest itself is still thawing out and often still shut to jeeps. May is the turning point: the snow retreats from the track, streams run high with meltwater, and by the second half of the month most camps are opening for the season. Days are already warm; nights are still cold enough for a proper jacket.
Summer: June to August
June is the driest summer month and one of the most reliable, with long, warm days, the hottest afternoons of the year and the track fully open. July and August have the warmest nights and much more rain, as the monsoon reaches Upper Dir. Storms can arrive quickly, swell the side streams that cross the jeep track, and cause landslides on the valley road below Thal. Most days are still fine for a trip, but keep a spare day in the plan through these two months.
Autumn: September to November
September is usually the best combination of warm days, cool nights and low rainfall, with the crowds of the school holidays gone. The first half of October can be clear and beautiful, though nights approach freezing in the forest by mid-month. From late October a single snowfall can close the upper valley for the year, and by November the season is normally over.
Kumrat weather in November
November is the first month of winter in Kumrat rather than the last of autumn. Dir town averages about 20 degrees by day and 2 at night, which puts Thal in the mid-teens in the afternoon and below freezing after dark, and the forest colder again. Rain is light, at about 58 mm in Dir, but this is when the first proper snow tends to arrive higher up.
The forest camps have usually packed up by November, and a heavy fall can close the jeep track to Kala Chashma for the winter. A November trip usually means a night in Thal and a look up the valley if the track is open, not a stay in the forest. Ask in Thal before you set out, and read our guide to Kumrat in October if you can come a few weeks earlier.
What the numbers mean for packing
Whatever the season, take a proper warm layer for the evening: even a hot June afternoon in Thal turns cold once the sun drops behind the ridges, and the forest camps are colder still. In July and August add a rain jacket and a dry bag for electronics, because storms build fast. From November to April, don't plan a trip into the forest at all without checking locally that the track is open.
A few things the table doesn't show. Wind picks up most afternoons in the forest, which makes the evenings feel colder than the temperature alone suggests. Humidity rises sharply with the monsoon, so July and August nights in a tent feel damper than the numbers imply, even when the rain itself has stopped. And because there is no permanent gauge in the valley, local hotels and jeep drivers in Thal are the best source for what is actually happening on a given day, rather than any forecast written for the district as a whole.
Frequently asked questions
What is the coldest month in Kumrat?
January and February, when nights in Thal fall well below freezing and the forest above it holds deep snow. The valley is effectively closed to visitors in both months.
What is the wettest month in Kumrat?
March, on the Dir town records, with February and April also wet. In the visiting season, July and August bring the monsoon, with the greatest risk of a landslide or a washed-out stream crossing on the road and jeep track.
Is Kumrat hot in summer?
Not very. June and July afternoons average 31 to 32°C in Dir town, which means the high 20s in Thal on a typical day, and the forest camps stay cooler again. Nights are cool even in peak summer.
What is the weather like in Kumrat in November?
Cold. Expect afternoons in the mid-teens in Thal and nights below freezing, with snow possible higher up. The forest camps are usually closed, so plan around Thal.
How cold is Kala Chashma?
Colder than Thal and the forest camps, because it is higher up the valley beside cold meltwater. Even in summer, take a warm layer for the jeep ride and the shade.
Does it snow in Kumrat?
Yes, heavily, from around November to March or April. The jeep track above Thal is normally under snow through the winter, and a late or early snowfall can close it outside those months too.
Is Dir safe for overseas visitors?
Pakistani visitors still travel to Upper and Lower Dir, including Kumrat, but as of September 2026 the UK government advises against all travel to both districts. If you hold a foreign passport, check your own government's advice before you go, because travelling against it can void your insurance. Everyone should check local news and current police advice before setting out.
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