Khukush Lake (Baha Lake): Trek, Access and Season

Khukush Lake, also known as Baha Lake, is an alpine lake at about 3,622 metres in Khukush Nallah, a side valley off the Shandur road in Ghizer, Gilgit-Baltistan. You reach it by driving from Phander to the village of Langar and then walking for roughly two to three hours up the nallah. The usual season is June to September, and the lake is frozen from about November to April.

It is one of the larger lakes in northern Pakistan, around 5 km long and under a kilometre wide, but it is not a roadside stop. This guide covers how the trip is put together, what the walk involves, whether to camp, and who should skip it.

Where is Khukush Lake?

The lake lies in the Gupis-Yasin district, in the Khukush Nallah above the Langar area near Phander. Wikipedia lists it as the third largest lake in northern Pakistan by surface area, after Attabad and Karambar. You will also see it called Khukush Langar Lake or Baha Lake, and these are the same place.

To get anywhere near it you follow the Gilgit–Chitral road west from Gilgit through Gupis and past Khalti Lake to Phander, then continue up the Shandur road. Our guide to the drive from Gilgit to Phander covers that stretch.

How to get to Khukush Lake from Gilgit

Most people split the trip in two. They reach Phander Valley on the first day, which sources put at about four to six hours from Gilgit depending on the vehicle and the stops, and do the lake the next day.

1. Phander to Langar. The road continues beyond Phander along the river towards Shandur. Visitors describe a rough, partly under-construction track, and a 4x4 or a jeep with a local driver is the sensible choice. Allow one and a half to two hours.
2. Langar to the trailhead. At Langar there is a check post, which is also where anglers buy fishing permits. The motorable track ends near a farmer's hut and the rest is on foot.
3. The walk. The path follows the stream for most of the way through meadow and patches of forest. Accounts give two to three hours uphill depending on pace and about two hours down. Operators call it moderate, with stream crossings, and one source calls it relatively easy.
4. Back to Phander in the afternoon, or stay at the lake.

A one-day round trip from Phander is possible but long. Starting early matters, because afternoon weather in the high Hindu Kush can turn quickly.

When to go

June to September is the sensible window, and it matches the months when the Shandur road is open. The lake is frozen from about November to April, and the road beyond Phander is not something to plan around in winter. If you are choosing a month for the whole Ghizer trip, our Ghizer seasons guide has the wider picture.

Check whether the road is open before you leave Gilgit. Shandur's status changes with snow and rain, and our page on whether Shandur Pass is open explains how to find out.

Camping at Khukush Lake

There are no hotels or guesthouses at the lake. People who stay overnight camp beside it, which means carrying a tent, a sleeping bag rated well below freezing, cooking gear and food, or arranging all of it through a local operator or guesthouse in Phander.

At 3,600 metres nights are cold even in July. Bring a proper sleeping bag, a warm layer for the evening and waterproofs. There are no shops, so carry out all your rubbish. Mobile signal is patchy even in Phander and should not be expected on the walk, so tell your guesthouse which day you plan to return.

Some operators sell this as a five-day package starting from Gahkuch, with Phander and Langar nights before the lake. One such package was priced at USD 650 per person in 2026. That is a single operator's price, and you can do the same trip far more cheaply independently.

What to carry

• Walking shoes with grip, and spare socks for stream crossings
• A warm jacket, hat and rain layer, even in summer
• At least two litres of water per person and food for the day
• Sun protection, because the sun at altitude is strong
• Cash, since card payments and ATMs cannot be relied on this far out
• A fishing permit if you plan to fish, bought at the Langar check post

Our altitude sickness guide is worth reading if anyone in the group is not used to heights, since you sleep close to 3,000 metres at Phander and then climb higher.

Is it safe to go to Khukush Lake?

Ghizer is part of Gilgit-Baltistan, which is not on the UK government's list of areas it advises against visiting, and Pakistani visitors regularly travel the Gilgit–Chitral road. The risks that matter on this trip are practical ones: rough road, river crossings, weather and altitude. Walk in a group or with a local, and tell someone your plan.

Security conditions in Pakistan change, and overseas visitors should read their own government's current advice, since going against it can affect travel insurance. Reaching Ghizer by road from Islamabad normally means the Karakoram Highway, and the UK advises against all travel on the stretch between Mansehra and Chilas. Our safety guide to Gilgit-Baltistan covers the options, including flying or using Babusar.

Is Khukush Lake worth it?

It suits people who like walking and quiet and do not need a road to the water. A couple of hours up a stream valley to a long lake with no buildings is the appeal, and a night beside it is the reward for those who carry a tent.

It is a poor choice for anyone short on time, anyone with small children or elderly parents who cannot manage a few hours' walk at altitude, or anyone hoping for a view from the car. In that case, see our list of lakes in Ghizer for easier options such as Khalti and Handrap. For more on what else to do in the district, start with the experiences page.

Frequently asked questions