Langar Valley, Ghizer: Trout Fishing and Camping Guide

Langar is a village and stream valley in upper Ghizer, Gilgit-Baltistan, reached from Phander along the Shandur road. It is known for trout fishing and camping, and it is the last settlement before the walk up to Khukush Lake. A fishing permit is required and is sold at the Langar check post, and fishing in Gilgit-Baltistan is banned from October to March.

This guide is about the valley itself: how to get there, how fishing works, where people camp, and what the place does not have. If you came for the lake, our guide to Khukush Lake covers the walk.

Where is Langar valley?

Langar lies in the Gupis-Yasin district, higher up the Ghizer river system than Phander. From Gilgit you follow the Gilgit–Chitral road through Gupis and past Khalti Lake to Phander, which most sources put at four to six hours, then continue along the river towards Shandur Pass. Our Gilgit to Phander guide covers that first leg.

The track past Phander is rougher than the main road. Travellers describe sections under construction and off-road stretches, so a jeep with a local driver is the safer option than a low-slung family car. Langar is also the starting village for the walk to Khukush Lake, also called Baha Lake.

Trout fishing in Langar

Gilgit-Baltistan has brown and rainbow trout, with brown trout the more common of the two. They were introduced in the colonial period, and Ghizer is now described as a hub for trout. The Langar stream, the Ghizer river and Handrap Lake are the places most often named by anglers.

The rules matter more than the tackle:

• A licence is mandatory under regional law, issued by the Gilgit-Baltistan fisheries department.
• Fishing is banned from October to March, the trout breeding season. Don't fish in the ban months, even if others do.
• At Langar one traveller's account describes a check post where permits are sold, at PKR 500 per day. That figure is from a single visitor's account and may have changed, so ask at the post, and carry cash.
• Local guesthouses and guides can usually say what is currently allowed and where.

Fishing pressure is a real concern. The press has reported illegal fishing with nets, dynamite and electric shock across the region, and floods since 2010 have damaged spawning beds. If you fish, keep only what you will eat and return the rest carefully. For a wider look at where to fish across the region, see our guide to trout fishing in Gilgit-Baltistan.

Camping in Langar

Descriptions of the valley agree on the basics: a stream, springs, open meadow and mountains on both sides. There are no hotels in the valley, so camping is the way to stay. Visitors can stay in Phander and make Langar a long day trip, or bring tents and set up overnight near the stream.

A few practical points:

• Bring everything. There are no shops reported at the campsite, so carry food, a stove, a tent and a sleeping bag.
• Expect cold nights. At these altitudes even July nights can be close to freezing. A bag rated to at least minus five degrees is a sensible minimum.
• Watch the water. The riverbank between Phander and Langar is flat and tempting, but water levels can rise with rain or snowmelt. Pitch well above the stream.
• Take your rubbish out.
• Signal is poor. Phander has limited coverage, so tell your guesthouse where you are going and when you will be back.

Tent rental and campsite prices at Phander vary and the figures we found were old, so ask before you book. For camping at the larger campsites nearby, see our guide to camping in Phander.

When to go

June to September is the practical window. The Shandur road is open in those months and the fishing season is running. The fishing ban begins in October, and the road beyond Phander can be difficult after snow, so check the Shandur road status before you leave Gilgit. Our seasons guide for Ghizer covers the full year.

Is it safe?

Ghizer is not on the UK government's list of areas it advises against, and Pakistani visitors regularly travel here. The practical hazards are the rough track, river crossings, cold and altitude. Carry offline maps, travel with a local guide if you are not experienced, and tell someone your route.

Check local news and current advice before you travel, as conditions in Pakistan can change. Overseas visitors should read their own government's advice, because it can affect travel insurance. The UK advises against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas, which is the usual road route from Islamabad. See our safety guide for Gilgit-Baltistan for the alternatives.

Who is Langar for?

It suits anglers, campers and walkers who are comfortable without facilities and happy to spend a day on a rough road. It does not suit anyone who wants a hotel bed every night, families with small children who need easy access to a doctor, or travellers short on time. If you want trout and a roof, base yourself in Phander and visit Langar for the day. Our experiences page lists other ways to spend time in the north.

Frequently asked questions