Islamabad to Astore by road is about 600 km: the Karakoram Highway north through Besham and Chilas to Thalichi, just past the Raikot Bridge, then the Astore road east across the Indus and up the Astore gorge. The Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department puts the drive at 15 to 17 hours, so plan it as two days, with a night in Besham or Chilas. From late May or June until the autumn snow there is a second way, through Naran and over the Babusar Pass to Chilas.
This guide covers the route leg by leg, where to stop, what the last road up to Astore is like, and the other ways to get there.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Distance | About 600 km (608 km on the tourism department's chart) |
| Driving time | 15 to 17 hours; two days is normal |
| Main route | Hazara Motorway to Thakot, then the KKH via Besham, Dasu and Chilas |
| Turn-off for Astore | Thalichi, on the KKH a short way past Raikot Bridge |
| Thalichi to Astore town | About 2 hours up the Astore gorge |
| Summer route | Naran and the Babusar Pass (4,173 m), about late May to November |
| Usual overnight stops | Besham or Chilas; Naran on the Babusar route |
| Help in Gilgit-Baltistan | Tourist Police 1422; Rescue 1122 |
The route in one line
Islamabad, the Hazara Motorway to Thakot, the Karakoram Highway along the Indus through Besham, Dasu and Chilas, past the Raikot Bridge to Thalichi, then onto the Astore road, across the Indus and up the gorge to Astore town.
The first two-thirds are the same as the drive to Gilgit, and our guide to Islamabad to Gilgit by road covers the motorway and the Kohistan stretch in detail. What changes is the end: instead of carrying on to Jaglot and Gilgit, you turn off at Thalichi.
How long does each leg take?
These are realistic driving times for a car with short stops. Buses, loaded vehicles and bad days take longer.
| Leg | Driving time |
|---|---|
| Islamabad to Besham, via the Hazara Motorway | 5 to 6 hours |
| Besham to Chilas, through Kohistan | 5 to 7 hours |
| Chilas to Thalichi, past Tatta Pani and Raikot Bridge | About 1.5 hours |
| Thalichi to Astore town, up the Astore gorge | About 2 hours |
That is 13 to 16 hours before any hold-ups, and this road almost always has some: a truck on a narrow section, a construction stop at Dasu, a slide being cleared at Tatta Pani. Hence the tourism department's 15 to 17 hours, and hence two days.
Where to stop overnight
Besham
Five to six hours from Islamabad, so you can leave after breakfast and arrive in daylight. The cost is a long second day of nine hours or more, through Kohistan in the morning and up the Astore gorge in the late afternoon. It suits families and anyone new to the road, as long as you leave Besham at first light.
Chilas
Ten to thirteen hours from Islamabad, which means leaving very early to get through Kohistan in daylight. The reward is a short second morning: about three and a half hours to Astore, arriving by lunchtime with the afternoon free for Rama. Chilas sits low, at about 1,265 metres, and is very hot in June and July, so book a room with air conditioning that works.
Naran, on the Babusar route
If you go over the Babusar Pass in summer, Naran is the natural first stop, six to eight hours from Islamabad. The second day, over the pass to Chilas and on to Astore, is long: plan on nine to ten hours, or stop a second night in Chilas and arrive fresh.
The Babusar route in summer
From about late May, once the National Highway Authority has cleared the snow, the road through the Kaghan valley and over the 4,173-metre Babusar Pass is open. It avoids the whole Kohistan stretch of the KKH and meets the highway again near Chilas, from where the route to Astore is the same.
Take it between June and September if your car is sound and the driver is comfortable on long, steep descents. It is a daylight road, with crossings allowed only during the day in recent seasons, and the descent to Chilas is hard on brakes. Skip it in heavy rain: in July 2025 a flash flood on the Thak Nala stretch on the Chilas side killed several tourists. It closes again with the autumn snow. Before relying on it, check whether Babusar Top is open.
The Astore road: Thalichi to Astore town
The turn-off is at Thalichi, on the KKH a short distance past the Raikot Bridge, the turning for Fairy Meadows. On a clear day this stretch has one of the best roadside views of Nanga Parbat. The Astore road crosses the Indus by the Thalichi bridge and heads up the Astore river.
For much of the way it runs through a narrow, dry gorge with rock and scree above and the river below. The tarmac is often broken by landslides, and the road is narrow in places. Then the valley opens out, the villages start, and you reach Astore town at about 2,550 metres.
What to know before you drive it:
- It is being rebuilt. The 121 km Thalichi–Astore–Rattu–Shounter road was under construction in September 2026, when the federal government announced plans to hand it to the National Highway Authority. Expect stretches of works and short stops.
- It closes. Landslides and avalanches shut it for hours or days at a time. In March 2025 avalanches and landslides at Kicham and two other places closed it; in April 2026 landslides blocked the Astore road again; and in July 2026 river erosion at Kachak cut Astore off for six days.
- Drive it in daylight and slowly. In November 2024 a coaster carrying a wedding party from Astore towards Rawalpindi went off the Thalichi bridge into the Indus, killing more than 20 people. Police said overspeeding was the likely cause.
- Fill up before you turn off. There is fuel in the larger towns on the KKH; don't count on it in the side valleys beyond Astore town.
Is the road safe?
Pakistani families drive this route every summer, and most trips pass without incident. There are two kinds of risk to take seriously.
Security. In December 2023 gunmen attacked a passenger bus on the KKH near Chilas, killing ten people, and in February 2026 a bomb in Chilas hit a Frontier Works Organization vehicle, killing one person. Check local news before you set off, follow instructions at checkposts, and don't drive after dark. Carry your CNIC and the car's papers; you will be asked for them.
Overseas visitors should know that the UK government advises against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas, via Battagram, Besham, Dasu and Sazin, up to its junction with the N-15 Babusar road. Your own government's advice may be similar, and travelling against it can void your insurance. Read the current UK Foreign Office advice before planning.
Weather and slides. July and August bring the monsoon to Kohistan and Diamer, and the Tatta Pani stretch south of Raikot is one of the most persistent trouble spots on the whole highway. Our guide to Karakoram Highway road status explains where to check before you leave, and the Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department posts road advisories.
Other ways to reach Astore
- Fly to Gilgit and drive. The flight from Islamabad takes about an hour when the weather allows. From Gilgit it is about four hours by road to Astore, down the KKH through Jaglot to Thalichi and up the gorge.
- Fly to Skardu and cross Deosai. In summer, a jeep can take you from Skardu across the Deosai plateau to Chilim and down the Astore valley in one long day. Our Skardu to Deosai guide explains the crossing.
- By bus or coaster. NATCO has an office in Astore and has run services from Rawalpindi, and private coasters run between Astore and Rawalpindi. It is cheap and a very long night. Check current departures in Rawalpindi.
Your own car or a hired jeep?
A normal car in good condition can reach Astore town in summer, and people do drive up in sedans. The question is what you do once you are there. The side roads to Rama and Rupal are steep and rough, and beyond Chilim, on the way to Minimarg, only 4x4 vehicles are allowed.
The usual answer is to drive your own car to Astore, park it at the hotel, and hire local jeeps for the side valleys. Our list of places to visit in Astore valley sets out which places need a jeep. If you would rather not drive at all, send us your dates on our trip planning page and we can plan the trip with a driver.
Frequently asked questions
How many hours is Islamabad to Astore by road?
The Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department puts it at 15 to 17 hours. Most people split it over two days with a night in Besham or Chilas.
Where do you turn off the KKH for Astore?
At Thalichi, a short distance past the Raikot Bridge heading north. The Astore road crosses the Indus there and climbs the Astore gorge, about two hours to Astore town.
Can a normal car go to Astore?
Yes, as far as Astore town, in summer and in dry weather. For Rama, Rupal and especially Minimarg, hire a local jeep in Astore.
Is the Babusar route shorter to Astore?
Usually, in summer: it avoids the slow Kohistan stretch of the KKH and is open from about late May to the autumn snow. It is a daylight-only road with a steep descent, and you still join the KKH near Chilas for the last part.
Is the Astore road open in winter?
The road from Thalichi to Astore town is the valley's all-year link, but avalanches and landslides close it at times, especially in late winter and spring. The side roads to Rama, Minimarg and Deosai are shut by snow.
