ATMs and petrol pumps in Neelum Valley both effectively run out at Athmuqam, the district headquarters about 90 km up the valley from Muzaffarabad. Muzaffarabad itself has ATMs from all the main banks; Athmuqam has at least one bank branch with an ATM; beyond that, through Keran, Sharda, Kel and Taobat, don't count on finding either a working ATM or a fuel pump.
This guide sets out what to expect at each stage and how much cash to carry.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Reliable ATMs | Muzaffarabad, all major banks |
| Last bank ATM in the valley | Athmuqam |
| ATMs beyond Athmuqam | Not reliable; plan as if there are none |
| Last fuel pump | Athmuqam |
| Fuel beyond Athmuqam | Not reliable; carry a reserve if riding or driving beyond it |
| Card payments | Limited to Muzaffarabad and larger hotels; assume cash-only elsewhere |
Where the ATMs actually are
Muzaffarabad has ATMs from the main national banks and is the sensible place to withdraw whatever cash you expect to need for the whole trip. Athmuqam, as the district headquarters of Neelum district, has at least one working bank branch and ATM, including an HBL branch in the town. Beyond Athmuqam, through Keran, Dowarian, Sharda, Kel and Taobat, there is no dependable network of ATMs, and any machine you do find beyond the lower valley cannot be relied on to be stocked or working when you need it.
Treat Athmuqam as your last certain chance to get cash, not Keran or Sharda, even though those towns have proper bazaars.
Where the fuel pumps are
The same pattern applies to fuel. Petrol stations are reliable in Muzaffarabad and again in Athmuqam, and unreliable to non-existent beyond that point. Fill your tank in Muzaffarabad before you set off, and again in Athmuqam regardless of how much fuel you think you have left, since running low on the narrower stretches above Sharda is a genuinely awkward position to be in.
How much cash to carry
There's no fixed number, since it depends on your plans, but a few things are reliably cash-only once you're past Athmuqam:
- Jeep hire for the rough stretches and side tracks, such as Sharda to Kel, Dowarian to Ratti Gali, or Kel to Taobat
- Most guesthouses and smaller hotels beyond the lower valley
- Roadside food, tea stalls and small shops
- The national park or entry fees charged at some stops
- Any repair, tow or emergency expense
Carry more than feels necessary rather than less, and keep it split between more than one person or bag rather than in a single wallet.
Where cards work
Card payments are limited to Muzaffarabad and some of the larger, better-established hotels along the route, and even then it's worth asking before you rely on it. Don't assume a card will be accepted anywhere beyond the lower valley, including at fuel pumps in Athmuqam.
Planning your cash around the trip
A sensible approach is to withdraw what you expect to need for the entire trip in Muzaffarabad, add a comfortable buffer for jeep hire and incidentals, and treat any ATM you happen to pass in Athmuqam as a backup rather than the plan. Our Neelum Valley trip cost guide has a fuller breakdown of what a trip typically costs, which is useful for working out roughly how much cash to bring.
Frequently asked questions
Is there an ATM in Athmuqam?
Yes, at least one working bank branch and ATM, including an HBL branch. It is the last reliable ATM heading up the valley.
Are there ATMs in Keran, Sharda or Kel?
Not reliably. Don't plan around finding one; withdraw what you need in Muzaffarabad or Athmuqam before continuing.
Where should I fill up on fuel before Neelum Valley?
Muzaffarabad and again in Athmuqam. Beyond Athmuqam, fuel pumps are unreliable, so top up there regardless of how full your tank looks.
Can I pay by card in Neelum Valley?
Only in Muzaffarabad and some larger hotels, and even then it's worth checking first. Assume everywhere else is cash-only, including jeep hire and most guesthouses.
How much cash should I carry for a Neelum Valley trip?
More than feels necessary. Jeep hire, hotels beyond the lower valley, food and any entry fees are all cash transactions, and there is no reliable way to top up once you're past Athmuqam.
Is the Neelum valley safe for overseas visitors?
Pakistani tourists visit every summer, but as of September 2026 the UK government advises against all travel in Azad Kashmir within 10 miles of the Line of Control, which covers most of the Neelum and Leepa valleys, and against all but essential travel to the rest of AJK. If you hold a foreign passport, check your own government's advice before you go, because travelling against it can void your insurance. Everyone should check local news and current police advice before setting out, and see our guide to whether Neelum Valley is safe right now for more.
