Kohistan is the steep, sparsely settled stretch of the Indus valley between Besham and Chilas, and most visitors drive through it rather than stop. The places worth knowing about are Dasu, the district headquarters on the Karakoram Highway, and a few side valleys such as Kandia and Palas that have scenery but very little tourist infrastructure. This guide sets out what is there, what we can and cannot confirm, and why it needs more caution than most of the north.
Start with the safety picture, because it shapes everything else.
Is it safe to visit Kohistan?
The UK government advises against all travel on the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas, via Battagram, Besham, Dasu and Sazin, up to the junction with the N15 (advice updated 22 September 2026). That covers the whole Indus Kohistan section of the road. Its advice also lists Swat, Upper and Lower Dir and the N45 to Chitral, which matters because "Kohistan" is also used for the Swat and Dir areas to the west.
Pakistani visitors do drive the highway, and buses and trucks use it every day, but you should check local news and current police advice before you set out, and avoid travelling after dark. If you hold a foreign passport, check your own government's advice, because travelling against it can void your insurance. Our KKH through Kohistan driving guide covers the road itself, and our Karakoram Highway safety note has the wider picture.
Where is Kohistan?
Since 2014 the old Kohistan district has been divided into Upper Kohistan (headquarters at Dasu), Lower Kohistan and, from 2017, Kolai-Palas. It lies where the Hindu Kush, Karakoram and Himalaya meet, with the Indus running through deep gorges. Dasu sits at about 841 metres, so the valley floor is hot in summer, with a July average around 29 degrees according to Wikipedia.
Places to see and know about
Dasu
The district town, on the KKH beside the Indus. It is a working bazaar and a fuel, food and rest stop, not a sightseeing destination. Nearby is the large Dasu hydropower project under construction, which affects traffic and road works on this stretch.
Kandia Valley
A side valley of Upper Kohistan that meets the Indus. It has dense forest, pastures, waterfalls and high lakes, with fishing and camping reported around the Thoti area. It is also prone to flooding and avalanches. A 2011 flood killed more than 60 people, and access roads were destroyed in 2010 before a new road was built. Wikipedia puts the valley about 371 km from Islamabad. We could not find reliable, current information on guesthouses or road conditions, so we would not plan a trip here without local contacts.
Palas Valley
A remote conservation area known for the endangered western tragopan pheasant. It is reached from the KKH and is best in summer, although facilities for visitors are minimal, and it is usually visited with a local guide or through an organised trip. We could not verify current access or permit arrangements.
Jalkot, Seo and Kolai
Other valleys on the Indus Kohistan side, listed by Wikipedia among the district's notable valleys. They exist mostly as villages and grazing areas, and we cannot recommend them as independent visits.
How long to allow
There is little here that justifies a dedicated stay. Most people cross Kohistan in a few hours on the way between Besham and Chilas, and the drive takes longer than the distance suggests because of road works and slow traffic. If you travel by road, leave time for delays and do not plan to be on the KKH after dark.
Because of the UK advice on the highway, Babusar Pass is the usual alternative for those heading from the Kaghan valley towards Chilas, which avoids the Mansehra to Chilas section. See our Babusar Pass guide for when it is open.
Should you go?
For most travellers, no: treat Kohistan as a region to cross carefully, not a place to visit. The side valleys are interesting to hikers and naturalists with local contacts, but visitor services are thin, floods and landslides can cut access and the security advice is serious.
If you want mountains and forest within reach of Abbottabad, the Galiyat, Thandiani and Kaghan valley are easier. Our Besham guide covers the gateway town on the Hazara side, and you can browse other options on our destinations page.
Frequently asked questions
What is Kohistan famous for?
Its steep Indus gorges, remote side valleys such as Kandia and Palas, and its position on the Karakoram Highway between Besham and Chilas.
Which is the main town in Kohistan?
Dasu is the headquarters of Upper Kohistan district and the main stop on the KKH.
Is it safe to travel through Kohistan?
The UK advises against all travel on the KKH between Mansehra and Chilas, including Kohistan. Pakistani travellers do use it, but check current news and avoid night driving.
Are there hotels in Kohistan?
Dasu and Besham have basic accommodation, but we could not verify options in the side valleys. Ask locally before you travel.
Can I visit Kohistan in winter?
The KKH is open for much of the year, but landslides and snow at higher valleys can cut access. Check road status first.
