Kharfaq Lake: Trout Lake Hike in Ghanche

Kharfaq Lake is a mountain lake at about 3,350 metres in Ghanche district, reached on foot from Kharfaq village on the Skardu to Khaplu road. There is no road to the water. The walk is short on the map, about 2 km from the village, but steep: sources give three hours for the climb, and the lake lies some 850 metres above the highway. It is a full-day hike for fit walkers, not a roadside stop.

This guide covers where Kharfaq is, what the climb involves, what you find at the top and when to go.

Where is Kharfaq Lake?

Kharfaq is a village in the Shyok valley, on the main road between Skardu and Khaplu. Measured along the road, the turning is about 74 km from Skardu and 39 km short of Khaplu, so it is roughly two-thirds of the way. The lake lies in the mountains south of the village, at about 35°10' N, 76°12' E.

From Skardu the drive follows the Indus and then the Shyok. Our Skardu to Khaplu guide covers the drive. Staying in Khaplu puts the trailhead about an hour away and makes an early start easy; see hotels in Khaplu.

How hard is the hike?

Harder than "2 km" suggests. The highway below the lake is at roughly 2,450 to 2,500 metres on satellite elevation data, and the lake is at about 3,350 metres. Even allowing for the height of the village above the road, that is a climb of several hundred metres packed into a very short horizontal distance, which is why the reference time is three hours up.

What that means in practice:

• It is a steep, sustained ascent from the first hour. There is little flat ground to recover on.
• It needs no climbing skill. No ropes or technical gear are involved.
• Altitude adds to the effort. At 3,350 metres most people from the plains are noticeably short of breath. Spend at least two nights in Skardu or Khaplu first. Our altitude sickness guide explains the warning signs.
• The descent is hard on the knees. Allow two hours or more, and carry a stick or trekking poles.

With an hour at the lake, plan on six to seven hours from the village and back.

Planning the day

1. Leave Khaplu by 7 am, or Skardu by 6 am, so that you are walking in the cool of the morning.
2. Find a guide in Kharfaq. The trail is not signposted, and we could not find a published map of it. A villager will know the current path and whether the upper section still holds snow.
3. Carry all your water and food. Take at least two litres a person. There is nothing to buy above the village.
4. Wear boots with grip and take a warm layer and a waterproof. Weather at 3,300 metres changes quickly, even in August.
5. Set a turnaround time. If you are not at the lake by early afternoon, go down.
6. Tell your hotel where you are going. We could not confirm mobile coverage on the trail, so assume there is none.

What is at the lake

The lake is known locally for its fish, both trout and native species. If you want to fish, ask in the village about permission and read our trout fishing guide for how licences work in Gilgit-Baltistan.

The water level follows the snowmelt. It starts to rise in May and reaches its highest in mid-July, so the lake is at its fullest in high summer.

There is nothing built at the top: no shelter, no stalls, no toilets. Carry out everything you bring.

A jeep road to the lake has been under construction for some years and was reported unfinished for lack of funds. Do not plan on driving up. If you hear in Khaplu that it has opened, ask someone who has used it.

When to go

July and August are the months to aim for. The trail is clear, the lake is full and the days are long.

June and September can work in a good year, but snow may lie on the upper trail in June, and the days shorten quickly in September. Go with a guide.

October to May is out of season. The lake is reported to be completely snow-covered in winter.

For the wider picture, see our guide to the best time to visit Khaplu.

Is it worth the hike?

For fit walkers who want a proper day on a mountain, yes. Few visitors to Baltistan go, and it is far quieter than the sights around Khaplu and Skardu.

It is not for a family day out or a tight itinerary. Six hours on a steep path rules it out for small children, anyone with knee or heart trouble, and anyone with only a day or two in Khaplu. If you want Shyok valley scenery with less effort, the hikes near Khaplu and the places to visit in Khaplu give more for the time.

We will also be straightforward about how little is published on this hike. The altitude, size and season of the lake are documented; the trail itself is not. Treat the three-hour figure as a guide, and let a local decide the route.

If you would like Kharfaq built into a longer Baltistan trip, with a guide and the timing planned around your other stops, get in touch through our trip planning page.

Frequently asked questions