Ushu Forest, Kalam: Walks, Picnics and Stays

Ushu Forest is the stretch of deodar, blue pine and spruce along the Ushu River above Kalam, around the village of Ushu, about 8 km from the town at roughly 2,300 metres. The road is mostly paved, so it is 20 to 30 minutes by car in dry weather, and it is the easiest outing from Kalam: good for short walks, a picnic by the river, and a quieter night than the bazaar.

Most people see Ushu through a jeep window on the way to Mahodand Lake. It deserves a morning or an afternoon of its own. This guide covers how to get there, where to walk and picnic, where the photographs are, and the choice between staying in the forest and staying in Kalam.

Where is Ushu Forest and how do you get there?

From Kalam bazaar, take the road north-east up the Ushu valley, the same road that goes to Mahodand. The forest thickens as you approach Ushu village, about 8 km out, and carries on past it towards Matiltan, about 11 km from Kalam, where the valley opens and the paved road runs out.

The road has been rebuilt and is mostly paved as far as Matiltan, and ordinary cars drive it in dry weather. After heavy rain, mud and water on the road make a jeep the safer choice. If you have come without a car, a jeep or local car from the bazaar will take you out and wait. Our Kalam road condition guide covers this and the other roads out of town.

In winter, snow and the Ushu glacier can block the road beyond the town, so whether you can get into the forest depends on the week.

Walks in and around the forest

Walking at Ushu is informal: forest paths, the riverbank and the road itself. Nothing here is a hard hike, which is the point. A few good ways to spend an hour or two on foot:

1. Ushu to Matiltan along the road. About 3 km, gently uphill, under the trees and beside the river most of the way. Have your driver drop you at Ushu and meet you at Matiltan, or walk it downhill the other way.
2. The riverbank. Where you can get down to the Ushu River safely, walk along the bank rather than on the boulders in the water, which are slippery and cold.
3. Up into the trees. Above the road, the forest climbs the slope and the traffic noise drops away within a few minutes. Keep the road in earshot so you can find your way back.
4. Matiltan. At the top end of the forest, walk out into the open ground for the view up the valley. On a clear day you can see Falak Sar, at 5,918 metres the highest peak in Swat.

A few sensible habits: wear shoes with grip, because the forest floor is steep and needle-covered in places; keep children close to you near the river; and don't walk far into the forest alone. Bears live in the forests of the Kalam valley, though you are very unlikely to see one near the road.

Picnics: where and how

Ushu is where Kalam comes for a picnic, and on summer weekends the clearings nearest the road fill up. Walk five minutes further in either direction and you will usually find space.

• Buy food in Kalam. There are hotels with restaurants along the road, but not much to buy in the forest itself.
• Pick a spot back from the water. The river is fast, cold and rises quickly after rain upstream. Sitting on rocks in the stream is how people get into trouble.
• Don't light fires under the trees. Use a stove, or bring food that needs no cooking.
• Take everything away with you. Litter at Swat's popular sites is a real problem, and Ushu is one of the places it collects.

Where to take photographs

The forest is best photographed in slanting light, so come early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the sun comes through the trees in shafts and the river catches the light.

• The road under the deodars, looking along it with the trees closing overhead.
• The Ushu River where it runs white over boulders beside the forest.
• Matiltan, for the open valley and, in clear weather, Falak Sar.
• Morning mist after a wet night, which hangs in the trees until mid-morning.
• October, when the forest stays dark green but the fields and village trees around it turn yellow and brown.

If you are passing on the way to Mahodand, the light is usually better on the way back in the afternoon than on the way up.

Staying at Ushu: hotels, cottages and camping

Hotels and guesthouses are spread along the road from Kalam towards Ushu. They are quieter than the bazaar, the nights are darker, and the forest is on your doorstep.

The trade-offs: you need a car to go anywhere, the road is unlit at night, and you are further from Kalam's restaurants and jeep stands. Check what heating and hot water a room has, since Ushu is higher and colder than the town, and ask how far the building stands from the river, particularly in July and August. Our guide to hotels in Kalam covers what to ask before booking anywhere in the valley.

Camping is also possible in clearings in the forest. There are no facilities, so bring everything, pitch well above the river, and ask before using land near houses. Our guide to camping in Kalam compares Ushu with the other sites.

When to go

• June to September is the main season. The forest is green, the road is open, and the days are warm with cool evenings.
• October is quieter, with clear days and cold nights.
• Winter brings snow to the forest. Whether you can reach it depends on the snow and the road; ask in Kalam, and go only with a vehicle and driver ready for snow.

On summer weekends and at Eid the road is busy with jeeps heading for Mahodand. Midweek, or early in the morning, the forest is far quieter.

Is Ushu Forest worth it?

It is not a dramatic sight, and anyone expecting one will be disappointed. What Ushu offers is shade, tall trees, the sound of the river and an easy half day, which is exactly what many families want after the long drive up to Kalam.

It suits families with young children, older parents and anyone who does not want four or five hours in a jeep. If you have only one day in Kalam and the track is open, go to Mahodand and stop at Ushu on the way back; our Mahodand Lake guide covers that trip. Our Swat Valley guide covers the rest of the valley.

Frequently asked questions