Sphola Stupa is a Buddhist stupa of the Kushan period, dated to around the 2nd or 3rd century CE, standing on a high rocky ledge above the road at Zarai village in the Khyber Pass, roughly midway between Ali Masjid and Landi Kotal and about 25 km beyond Jamrud. It is the most complete Buddhist monument left in the pass. In 2026 it sits inside an area the UK advises against all travel to, Khyber district is closed to foreign tourists in practice, and we would not plan a trip to see it until the border situation settles.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Zarai village, Khyber Pass, Khyber district |
| Distance | About 25 km beyond Jamrud, so roughly 40 km from central Peshawar |
| Date | Kushan period, around the 2nd to 3rd century CE (some sources say later) |
| Type | Stone stupa on a tiered base; the federal survey also lists a monastery |
| Protection | Listed as unprotected and privately owned in a 2020 federal survey |
| Current use | Used as a Frontier Constabulary post |
| Pakistani visitors | CNIC at every checkpoint; access depends on the day's security posture |
| Foreign visitors | Prior permission and an escort; tourism permission unlikely in 2026 |
What is Sphola Stupa?
A stupa is a solid domed mound built over relics, which Buddhists walked around in devotion. Sphola is one of the Gandhara stupas, part of the same Buddhist world that produced Takht-i-Bahi and the sculpture now in the Peshawar Museum. It stood on the old road from the Peshawar valley to Afghanistan and Central Asia.
The local name is spelt several ways, including Shpola, Shapola and Saphola. The Federal Department of Archaeology and Museums lists it as Saphola Stupa at Zarai in its 2020 survey, and the KP government calls it Shapola.
Who built it and when?
No builder's name survives. The stupa is usually dated to the 2nd century CE, towards the end of Kushan rule, when the Kushan kings made Purushapura, today's Peshawar, a winter capital and Buddhism flourished across Gandhara. Pakistani heritage writers put it between the 2nd and 3rd centuries, and some sources place it a little later, in the 3rd to 5th centuries. The federal survey gives a broad 1st to 5th century range. Treat any precise date you see with caution.
What is agreed is that it was one of the larger Buddhist burial mounds of Gandhara, and that it stayed in fairly good condition until the 19th century.
What does the stupa look like today?
The stupa is a stone mound rising from a three-tiered base on a ledge above the road. The drum is circular and sits on a podium. Its faces were divided by bands of circular recesses and toothed (dentil) mouldings, with square pilasters carrying bases and capitals, a scheme close to that of the Shingardar Stupa near Barikot in Swat.
Large parts of the facing stone have fallen away, especially on the right of the mound, and the top has been dug into. Even so, it still reads clearly as a stupa from the road.
The setting matters as much as the ruin. The ledge commands the valley, which is exactly why it has been taken over as a Frontier Constabulary post: the height gives the troops a view up and down the road. That use has protected it from some damage, but it also means it is not run as a heritage site and you cannot simply walk up to it.
What happened to its sculpture?
Early 20th century photographs show the stupa with many sculptures still set in its facade. After the British took control of the Khyber in the late 19th century the site suffered from illegal digging, and road contractors carried off its stone. Treasure hunters cut into the dome.
Some of the Gandhara sculpture recovered from Sphola is now in the Peshawar Museum, and the provincial archaeology department found further pieces during restoration work. If you want to see what Buddhist Khyber looked like, the museum is where to do it: our Peshawar Museum guide covers the Gandhara galleries.
In 2020 the KP government listed Shapola Stupa among nine sites, with Jamrud Fort, to be rehabilitated under a World Bank supported tourism project worth about 70 million US dollars, with conservation work and visitor facilities planned. We have not found confirmation of what, if anything, has been completed at Sphola since.
Can you visit Sphola Stupa in 2026?
Realistically, no, and we would not try.
- UK advice (22 September 2026): against all travel to Khyber district, and to anywhere within 10 miles of the Afghan border.
- The border: Torkham, at the top of the pass, was closed to trade after clashes in October 2025, and in 2026 has opened only for the return of Afghan nationals. Pakistan and Afghanistan have been in conflict through the year.
- Pakistani citizens have normally been able to drive through Khyber district with a CNIC, registering at checkpoints, but roads beyond Jamrud can be closed at short notice. Ask in Peshawar and at the first checkpoint, and turn back if told to.
- Foreign nationals and dual nationals on a foreign passport need prior permission and a security escort. Permission for tourism is unlikely while the conflict continues, and travelling against your government's advice can void travel insurance.
In calmer years, visitors saw Sphola from the road on the drive to Landi Kotal, stopping only where the escort or checkpoint allowed. Do not photograph the post, the soldiers or checkpoints. Our Khyber Pass guide explains the wider route and the other stops, from Shagai Fort to Michni, and our guide to Peshawar to Torkham covers the road itself.
Is it worth the effort, and what to see instead?
Sphola is a fine piece of Gandhara architecture in a dramatic position, but you see it from a distance. For most travellers the honest answer is to see Buddhist Gandhara somewhere you can walk around freely.
- Takht-i-Bahi, the UNESCO-listed monastery near Mardan, is the best preserved site in the province; see our Takht-i-Bahi guide, and check current advice for Mardan first.
- The Taxila valley, near Islamabad, has Dharmarajika and Jaulian and is outside the areas under advisory; our Dharmarajika Stupa guide is a good start.
Our round-up of Gandhara sites in KP compares the options, and more ideas are on our experiences page.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Sphola Stupa?
At Zarai village in the Khyber Pass, between Ali Masjid and Landi Kotal, about 25 km beyond Jamrud. It stands on a rocky ledge above the main road to Torkham.
How old is Sphola Stupa?
It is usually dated to the 2nd century CE, late in the Kushan period, though some sources place it between the 3rd and 5th centuries. No inscription fixing its date has been published.
Can you go inside or climb Sphola Stupa?
No. The stupa is solid, as stupas are, and the site is used as a Frontier Constabulary post, so visitors have generally seen it from the road with an escort.
Do I need a permit to see Sphola Stupa?
Pakistani citizens normally need only a CNIC at checkpoints, though roads can close without notice. Foreign nationals need prior permission and an escort, which is unlikely to be granted for tourism in 2026.
Is Sphola Stupa a protected monument?
A 2020 federal survey lists it as unprotected and privately owned, although the KP government included it in a 2020 rehabilitation plan.
