The road from Skardu to Kharmang follows the Indus south-east along the old Skardu–Kargil road, through Ghasing, Mehdiabad and Tolti to Kharmang Khas and Manthokha. Published distances differ (roughly 80 to 126 km depending on where "Kharmang" is taken to end), and most sources put the drive at two to three hours to Manthokha in summer. It is mostly tarmac, with narrow and patched sections, so the time depends more on the road than on the distance.
This guide walks the route in order so you know what each stage is, what to expect from the surface and where the drive ends. For what to see once you arrive, see our guide to places to visit in Kharmang.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Route | Skardu, Ghasing, Mehdiabad, Tolti, Hamzigon, Kharmang Khas, Manthokha |
| Distance | Sources differ: about 80 km to Manthokha; 110 to 126 km to the end of the road |
| Drive time | About 2.5 to 3 hours to Manthokha in good conditions |
| Surface | Mostly black-topped, with bumpy and narrow stretches; last few km to some sights are rough |
| Best months | June to September; late September to October for autumn colour |
| District headquarters | Tolti |
What is the Skardu to Kharmang road?
It is the Skardu–Kargil road, a provincial highway of about 126 km. It leaves Skardu and runs up the Indus valley towards the Line of Control, and before 1948 it carried on to Kargil in what is now Indian-administered Ladakh. That crossing has been closed ever since, so today the road is a dead end: you drive out and come back the same way.
Kharmang became its own district in 2015, with its headquarters at Tolti. Most visitors are not heading for the district in general but for one or two places, usually Manthokha waterfall and the orchards and villages around Mehdiabad.
Why the distance figures disagree
Different guides quote 40, 80, 110, 120 and 126 km for "Skardu to Kharmang". They are not all measuring the same thing. Some mean Skardu to Manthokha waterfall (Wikipedia gives about 80 km), some mean Skardu to Kharmang town, and the 126 km figure is the whole road to the Line of Control.
Use the stages below rather than a single number. Ask your driver or hotel the distance to the exact village you want and allow for a slow average speed: one local guide describes about 60 km/h on the main road, which is optimistic if you stop often.
Stage by stage
1. Skardu to Ghasing
You leave Skardu heading south-east along the Indus. The first stretch runs through sandy cold-desert terrain and is the easiest part of the drive. Fill the tank in Skardu rather than counting on fuel further down the valley.
2. Ghasing to Mehdiabad
Mehdiabad is roughly 50 to 60 km from Skardu and about one and a half to two hours away, according to local travel sources. The valley narrows here, with canyon sections where the road clings to the rock above the river. This is a good place to stretch your legs, and Mehdiabad is known for its orchards, which makes late summer and autumn the pleasant time to stop.
3. Mehdiabad to Tolti
Tolti is the district headquarters and the largest settlement on the route. It has basic hotels and restaurants, and is the natural place for a meal or an overnight stop if you want to split the trip. Supplies and a check on the road ahead are likely to be easier here than further on.
4. Tolti to Hamzigon and Kharmang Khas
Beyond Tolti the road keeps following the river, and the villages are smaller and further apart. Kharmang Khas is where the old fort stands; our page on Kharmang Fort has the history and what is left to see. The road surface varies between good tarmac and sections being widened or realigned, so expect to slow down and pass oncoming traffic carefully.
5. Kharmang Khas to Manthokha
Manthokha is the last big stop for most visitors. The waterfall is about 55 m (180 ft) high and is a short walk from the roadside, with a nearby restaurant serving local trout. Our guide to Manthokha waterfall covers the walk, the season and where to eat. Side valleys and some other falls, such as Khamosh, need extra distance on rougher tracks; see Khamosh waterfall before you decide.
Road condition and when to drive it
Reports describe the main road as largely paved, bumpy and pitted in places, with work under way to widen narrow parts. The last few kilometres to some side-valley sights are unsurfaced and can drop to walking pace.
- June to September: roads open, waterfalls running at full volume, warm and stable weather. This is the reliable window.
- Late September to October: orchard colour and fewer visitors, but cooler evenings.
- Rain: rock falls and washed-out edges are the usual problem. After heavy rain, ask locally in Skardu before you set out, and see our note on Skardu road conditions.
- Winter: snow and cold are likely to make the side valleys impassable. Do not plan a winter trip without current local information.
A normal car can manage the main road in dry weather if it is in good order and the driver is used to narrow mountain roads. A jeep or a driver from Skardu is the more comfortable choice, and essential for the side tracks.
Is it safe, and do you need permission?
The Kharmang road runs towards the Line of Control, and the stretch beyond the last villages is a military zone. Pakistani visitors travel to Manthokha and Kharmang Khas as an ordinary day or overnight trip and the district is part of Gilgit-Baltistan, which is not on the UK government's list of areas it advises against. Even so, the road ends at the Line of Control, so do not try to go beyond the last open point, and follow any instruction at checkpoints.
Foreign visitors should check their own government's current advice and the latest local rules before going, as these can change. Carry your CNIC (or passport) for checkpoints.
How to plan the day
- Leave Skardu by 7 or 8 am. That gives you a morning at Mehdiabad or Manthokha and time to be back before dark.
- Do not try to see everything. Manthokha and the road itself are a full day. Add Khamosh or the fort only if you start early or stay overnight.
- Stay in Tolti if you want a second day. Choices are simple, so book ahead in peak summer or ask your Skardu hotel to call.
- Carry cash and snacks. Card payments are unlikely beyond Skardu.
- Expect weak mobile signal in the narrow sections, and agree a return time with anyone waiting at your hotel.
If you are building a longer Baltistan trip, the route fits naturally after Skardu, Shigar and Deosai; our Skardu and Deosai tour shows how those days can be strung together, and the Skardu destination page covers the base itself.
Who is this drive for?
It suits travellers with a spare day or two beyond the standard Skardu circuit, families happy with a long drive and a waterfall as the reward, and photographers who like orchards and quiet villages. It does not suit anyone short on time: if you only have one day around Skardu, Shigar or Upper Kachura gives you more for the hours.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Kharmang from Skardu?
It depends on the point you mean. Manthokha waterfall is about 80 km by road, the end of the road at the Line of Control is about 126 km, and other guides quote figures in between.
How long does it take to drive from Skardu to Manthokha?
Plan on two and a half to three hours each way in good conditions, longer if you stop at Mehdiabad or Tolti or if rain has affected the road.
Is the Skardu to Kharmang road paved?
Mostly, yes. Expect bumpy and patched sections, narrow canyon stretches and some unsurfaced side tracks to individual waterfalls and lakes.
Where can I stay on the way?
Tolti has simple hotels and restaurants, and there are guesthouses near Manthokha. Options are limited compared with Skardu, so ask your hotel in Skardu to confirm before you go.
Can you drive from Skardu to Kargil?
No. The Skardu–Kargil road has been closed at the Line of Control since 1948, so the Pakistani side ends in Kharmang.
