Olding valley is home to the largest village of Kharmang district and the last one before the Line of Control, sitting at around 2,644 metres where the old Skardu–Kargil road runs out. It is roughly 125 km from Skardu, most of a day's drive, through orchards and along the Indus and Dras rivers to a village that once sat on the trade route between Baltistan and Ladakh, now closed since Partition.
This guide covers what there is to see, how to get there, and what visiting this close to the border actually involves.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Kharmang district, on the Dras river near its meeting with the Indus |
| Elevation | About 2,644 m |
| From Skardu | Roughly 125 km, most of a day |
| Road | Skardu–Kargil road, paved in stretches, rougher near Olding |
| Status | Last village before the Line of Control; expect checkposts |
| Documents | CNIC for Pakistanis; foreign nationals should check current permit rules |
Where is Olding?
Olding sits in the Dras river valley in Kharmang district, on slopes above the river, close to where it meets the Indus. It is described in old accounts as a large village even a century ago, and it was long a halting place on the route between Kargil and Skardu — a route that has been shut since 1948, when the Line of Control was drawn nearby. Today Olding is effectively the end of the road: beyond it lies the border with Indian-administered Ladakh.
What there is to see
Olding is a working village rather than a tourist site, and that is much of its appeal. It sits among orchards of apricot, apple, grape, mulberry, cherry and peach, with the Indus and Dras rivers running below and mountains on every side. The village also holds a tomb associated with Shaikh Ali Brolmo, part of its local religious history, and Balti and Purgi are still the everyday languages here, a reminder of how close Baltistan and Ladakh once were culturally as well as geographically.
There is no developed sightseeing infrastructure: no ticket office, viewpoint or marked trail. What draws visitors is the drive itself and the sense of reaching the literal end of the road.
Getting there from Skardu
Olding is reached on the Skardu–Kargil road, which runs about 126 km from Skardu up the Indus into Kharmang before ending at the Line of Control. Allow most of a day for the round trip:
- Skardu to Manthokha and Mehdiabad, the first stretch, on a paved road. See our guide to Manthokha waterfall for this part of the drive.
- On up the valley through Kharmang Khas, where the road becomes rougher.
- The final stretch to Olding, near the end of the drivable road.
A 4x4 with a local driver who knows the current state of the road and the checkpost situation is the practical way to do this trip; hotels in Skardu can usually arrange one. There is no fuel beyond the main villages, so fill the tank before you leave the lower valley.
Permissions and the Line of Control
Olding is close enough to the Line of Control that visiting it is not the same as visiting Manthokha or Mehdiabad. A few things to know:
- Pakistani visitors typically need only their CNIC and should expect to register at checkposts along the road, as elsewhere in Kharmang.
- Foreign nationals face tighter rules. Gilgit-Baltistan has been open to foreigners without a general NOC since 2019, but areas close to the Line of Control are treated differently, and a restricted-area permit arranged through a licensed Pakistani tour operator can be required, with the exact zones changing periodically. Check with the Directorate of Tourist Services Gilgit-Baltistan or a licensed operator well before travelling.
- The road itself stops at the Line of Control. There is no crossing to Kargil; the historic route has been closed since 1948.
Whatever your nationality, ask about the current situation in Skardu before setting out, since checkpost rules and road access this close to the border can change with little notice.
Is Olding worth the trip?
It suits travellers with several days in Skardu who want to see the full length of Kharmang and are comfortable with a long day of driving on a rough road for a quiet village rather than a headline sight. It is not worth it as a first taste of Kharmang: see Manthokha, and Khamosh or Kharmang Fort if you have more time, before making the longer trip out to Olding. Our guide to places to visit in Kharmang sets it alongside the district's other stops, and our Skardu page covers what else fills a longer Baltistan trip.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Olding from Skardu?
About 125 km, roughly four to five hours of driving each way on a road that gets rougher the further up the valley you go, for most of a day round trip.
Can I cross into India from Olding?
No. Olding sits at the end of the road on the Pakistani side; the route to Kargil has been closed since 1948 and there is no public crossing.
Do foreigners need a permit to visit Olding?
Possibly. Gilgit-Baltistan is generally open to foreign visitors without an NOC, but areas near the Line of Control, including this part of Kharmang, can require a restricted-area permit arranged through a licensed operator. Check current rules before planning the trip.
What is there to do in Olding?
Little in the way of formal sightseeing. Visitors come for the drive along the Indus and Dras rivers, the orchards and the sense of reaching the end of the road, rather than for any single attraction.
Is it safe to visit Olding?
Pakistani visitors travel here regularly, and the road is a normal, if long, mountain drive. It runs close to the Line of Control, so check current advice and any checkpost requirements in Skardu before setting out.
