Skardu

Skardu in Autumn: Golden Poplars and Clear Skies

When the colours peak in Skardu in autumn, how cold October and November get, when Deosai closes, and what quieter hotels and roads mean for your trip.

By Explore Pakistan · Published 25 September 2026 · 8 min read

Skardu
Photo: S SHER XAMAN photography · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Skardu in autumn is at its best from about mid-October to the first days of November, when the poplars along the Indus, around the Kachura lakes and through the Shigar valley turn gold against bare brown mountains. The air is dry and clear, the summer crowds have gone, and hotel rooms are easy to find. The trade-offs are cold nights, short days and the Deosai plateau, which usually closes with the first heavy snow some time in October.

This guide covers when the colour comes, where to see it, what each autumn month is like, how late Deosai stays open, and what changes in hotels and travel as the season winds down.

At a glance
Colour windowRoughly mid-October to early November; varies each year
October in SkarduAbout 20 °C by day, 4 °C at night
November in SkarduAbout 13 °C by day, −2 °C at night
RainVery little; October and November are among the driest months
DeosaiUsually closes with the first heavy snow in October
Babusar PassCloses with autumn snow; in 2025, from early November
CrowdsFew, apart from long weekends
Sunset in late OctoberAround 5 pm, earlier behind the mountains

When do the leaves turn in Skardu?

The colour comes in stages. The first poplars start to yellow in late September and early October, but the valley as a whole turns in the second half of October, and in a mild year the gold lasts into the first days of November. Apricot and other orchard trees go orange and copper alongside the poplars.

The timing moves with the weather. A warm autumn holds the colour back; a hard frost or a few windy days can strip the trees within a week. Treat any date, including these, as the middle of a window. A message to your hotel a week before you leave will tell you more than any website.

Where to see the autumn colour around Skardu

Almost all of it is on paved roads, reachable in an ordinary car.

  • Shigar. The orchards and poplar groves around the restored fort and the villages behind it are the best of it, and far quieter than in summer. It is about an hour north of Skardu.
  • The Kachura lakes. Lines of poplars around Shangrila and Upper Kachura, with the water still and clear on calm mornings.
  • The Indus near the airport and Katpana. Gold trees along the river against the grey sand of the cold desert make the sharpest contrast in the valley.
  • The Satpara road. The villages on the way up to Satpara Lake turn with the rest of the valley, and the lake is at its clearest.
  • The Shyok towards Khaplu. Three hours east of Skardu, where the colour often lasts into the first days of November. Our Khaplu in autumn guide covers it in detail.

Light is short and low in autumn, which is part of the appeal. Go to the lakes early, when the water is still, and save the dunes and river for the last hour before sunset.

Skardu in September, October and November

MonthAverage highAverage lowWhat it feels like
September27 °C11 °CWarm days, cool evenings; Deosai usually open
October20 °C4 °CCrisp mornings, sunny days, cold after dark
November13 °C−2 °CCold; frost most nights; the last colour early on

September is still summer in most respects: the valley is green, Deosai is normally open, and the nights are cool rather than cold. It is the month to choose if the plateau matters more than the colour.

October is the month most people mean by autumn in Skardu. Days are bright and comfortable for walking; mornings and evenings need a proper jacket. By the end of the month the nights are close to freezing.

November is for people who want Skardu almost to themselves. The first week can still have colour, especially further up the Shyok, but frost is normal and the valley starts to look like winter.

When does Deosai close?

The Deosai plateau, at over 4,000 metres, closes when the first heavy snow of autumn covers the track. That is most often around the middle of October, but in some years it comes early in the month and in others the track stays usable into late October.

This is where autumn trips go wrong. A fine morning in Skardu says very little about the afternoon on the plateau, and there is no signal and no shelter up there. In November 2024, fifteen people in two vehicles were caught by heavy snow on Deosai while travelling from Gultari to Skardu, and the army had to rescue them.

So:

  • If Deosai is the point of your trip, go in September, or by early October at the latest, and keep a spare day.
  • Don't plan a mid- or late-October trip around it. Treat the plateau as a bonus if it is still open.
  • Ask in Skardu the evening before. Hotels and jeep drivers know whether vehicles are still getting through. Our guide to whether Deosai is open or closed explains how to check.

Night camping on the plateau has been banned since September 2025, so an autumn visit is a day trip in any case.

Getting to Skardu in autumn

Flying is often at its most dependable in autumn, because October and November are among the driest months of the year. Cancellations still happen when cloud comes in, so keep a spare day at the end of the trip.

By road, the Babusar Pass closes with the autumn snow. In 2025, snow closed the Babusar road in early November, and it was shut for the winter by the end of the month. Once it closes, the only road north is the Karakoram Highway through Kohistan. The last leg from Jaglot to Skardu is normally open through autumn, apart from short closures for rockfall.

Days are short. By late October, plan to be off the road by 5 pm, which means leaving early for any long drive.

Quieter hotels: what changes in autumn

For most of October the town is calm. Outside long weekends you can usually find a room without booking weeks ahead, and rates are generally lower than in July and August.

A few things are worth checking before you book:

  1. Heating. From mid-October, ask how the room is heated, whether there is a charge for it, and whether it works during power cuts.
  2. Hot water and power backup. Power cuts tend to get longer as the weather cools. A hotel with a generator or solar backup makes a real difference.
  3. Whether it will be open. Some seasonal places close for the winter, so confirm your dates directly.
  4. The rate. Outside the peak weeks, it is worth asking for a better price on a longer stay.

Our guide to budget hotels in Skardu covers price bands and what is included.

What to pack for an autumn trip

  • A warm jacket, a fleece and a hat for mornings and evenings
  • Thermals to sleep in from late October, when rooms can be cold
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen: the sun is strong in the dry, clear air
  • Lip balm and moisturiser, because the air is very dry
  • A torch or headlamp for power cuts

Is autumn a good time to visit Skardu?

For photographers, couples and anyone who likes quiet lanes, clear air and gentle walking weather, late October is one of the best times of the year. The lakes, Shigar, Katpana and Khaplu are all open, and you share them with very few people.

It suits you less if Deosai is the reason you are going, or if you are travelling with small children or older parents who will feel the cold evenings in rooms that are not always well heated. For them, September gives most of the clear weather with warm nights and the plateau still open. Our guide to when to go sets every season side by side.

If you would like the logistics handled, our seven-day Skardu and Deosai trip runs through the valley's sights with a spare day for weather; in late autumn, the Deosai days depend on the plateau still being open.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to see autumn colours in Skardu?

Usually the second half of October into the first days of November. The exact peak changes with the weather each year, so check with your hotel shortly before you travel.

Is Deosai open in October?

Often for part of it. The first heavy snow, most often around mid-October, closes the track, so don't plan a late-October trip around the plateau.

How cold is Skardu in October?

Days average about 20 °C and nights about 4 °C. By the end of the month nights are close to freezing, so bring a warm jacket and layers.

Is Skardu crowded in autumn?

No. Apart from long weekends, October and November are quiet, and rooms are easier to find and often cheaper than in summer.

Do flights to Skardu run in autumn?

Yes, and autumn is usually one of the more settled seasons for them because it is so dry. Cancellations still happen, so keep a spare day at the end of your trip.

Is November a good time to visit Skardu?

Only if you want quiet and don't mind the cold. The first days of November can still have colour, but nights fall below freezing and Deosai is closed.

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