Pharwala Fort stands on a bend of the Soan river about 40 km from Rawalpindi, near Kahuta, and reaching it means wading a shallow stretch of the river before a short walk up to the walls. It was the stronghold of the Gakhar clan, who controlled a swathe of the Pothohar region for centuries, and it saw sieges by Mughal and Sikh armies before falling into ruin. The fort reopened to visitors in January 2024 after conservation work, but it remains a rough, half-restored site rather than a polished monument.
This guide covers the fort's history, what is actually left to see, how the river crossing and walk work, and what to know before you go.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Location | On the Soan river, near Kahuta, about 40 km from Rawalpindi |
| Built | Around the 11th century, on an earlier fortification |
| Entry | Free |
| Access | Drive to Bagh Jogian village, then cross the river on foot |
| Condition | Reopened 2024 after partial conservation; largely unrestored |
The Gakhar stronghold on the Soan
Pharwala is traditionally linked to Sultan Kaigohar, an ally of Mahmud of Ghazni, who is said to have built the first fort here in the early 11th century on the site of an earlier Hindu Shahi structure. After Mahmud's conquests, the Gakhar chiefs were given control of the region between the Jhelum and Attock rivers, and Pharwala became the seat of their power for hundreds of years, at its height controlling territory stretching from Attock to Jhelum, Gujrat and into parts of Hazara and Kashmir.
The fort's history was not peaceful. Mughal emperor Babur took it in 1519, though the Gakhars soon made peace with him and kept much of their land. Sher Shah Suri attacked it in 1540 during his struggle with the Mughals. The Gakhars' long hold on the fort finally ended in 1818, when Maharaja Ranjit Singh's Sikh forces seized it along with the rest of their territory.
What is left to see
Pharwala was built on a large scale, with six sandstone gates around a walled area covering some 450 acres, enough to hold horses, elephants and a substantial garrison. Time and neglect have taken a heavy toll: recent surveys of the site describe only one of the original gates, the Hathi Darwaza (elephant gate), still standing in recognisable form, with the others reduced to fragments or vanished entirely. Inside the walls are the remains of a mosque and a mausoleum traditionally associated with the Gakhar rulers, along with stretches of wall following the curve of the river.
Conservation work by the federal Department of Archaeology and Museums began in September 2023, clearing debris and vegetation, and the site reopened to visitors in January 2024. As of the most recent reporting, no further preservation work has followed, and the fort, mosque and mausoleum continue to weather without protection. Treat it as a ruin to explore carefully, not a restored heritage site.
The river crossing and the walk in
There is no bridge directly to the fort. The usual route is to drive from Islamabad toward Rawat, turn off onto the road that leads through Bagh Jogian village, and park there. From the village, visitors cross the Soan river on foot through shallow water before a walk of around half a kilometre, roughly ten to fifteen minutes, up to the fort gate. A few points worth knowing:
- Wear shoes you don't mind getting wet, and carry a change if you plan to explore further afterwards.
- The water level changes with rainfall and the season. After heavy rain the crossing can be deeper and the current stronger; avoid it if the river looks high.
- The access road is basic and has been described by local residents as poorly maintained, so a normal car can usually manage it but go slowly.
- Public transport does not reach the fort. A private car or motorbike is the practical way to get there.
Is it safe to visit?
There is no security advisory covering this part of Rawalpindi district, and the main risks are practical rather than related to crime: an unmarked, unrestored ruin, a river crossing that varies with the season, and stretches of wall and gatehouse that are structurally unstable after decades of neglect. Keep to the paths, don't climb loose masonry, and avoid the crossing in poor weather or after dark. Go in daylight and allow time to get back across the river before dusk.
Is it worth the trip?
For anyone who wants Gakhar history and a genuine sense of exploring a ruin rather than a manicured site, yes, and the river crossing and the views over the Soan valley are part of the appeal. If you want polished conservation and clear signage, this is not that: it suits a couple with sturdy shoes and a free morning more than a family outing with young children or older relatives who would struggle with the crossing and walk. If you want Gakhar history with easier access, our guide to Rawat Fort, their other stronghold on the GT Road, is a gentler alternative, and it fits into the same day as the other stops in our places to visit in Rawalpindi guide. See our trip planning page for building a full day around it.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get to Pharwala Fort?
Drive from Islamabad toward Rawat, then follow the side road through Bagh Jogian village, where you park and cross the Soan river on foot before a short walk to the fort.
Is there an entry fee for Pharwala Fort?
No, entry is free.
Is Pharwala Fort safe to visit?
There is no security concern specific to the area, but the site is an unrestored ruin with a river crossing that varies with the season. Visit in daylight, wear suitable shoes, and avoid the crossing after heavy rain.
How much of the fort still stands?
Less than in earlier decades. Of the original six gates, only the Hathi Darwaza (elephant gate) remains clearly recognisable, along with stretches of wall, a mosque and a mausoleum inside.
Can a normal car reach Pharwala Fort?
You can drive as far as Bagh Jogian village on a basic but passable road. From there the fort is reached on foot, including the river crossing.
