December in the northern areas is winter, and a real one. Babusar Pass, Deosai, the Fairy Meadows jeep track and Khunjerab Pass for visitors are all closed, and the only way in by road is the Karakoram Highway through Chilas, which stays open but can close for hours or days after heavy snow. Flights from Islamabad to Gilgit and Skardu keep running when the weather allows, and hotels in Hunza, Gilgit and Skardu stay open, but heating quality varies a great deal, so it pays to ask before you book.
This guide covers what's actually open, how to get there, what a hotel's heating claim really means, and who a December trip suits.
| At a glance | December |
|---|---|
| Road in | Karakoram Highway via Besham, Dasu and Chilas only |
| Closed | Babusar Pass, Deosai, Fairy Meadows jeep track, Khunjerab summit for visitors |
| Skardu | Around 6 °C by day, close to freezing or below at night |
| Hunza | Cold, with hard frost most nights |
| Flights | Islamabad to Gilgit and Skardu, weather permitting |
| Power | Long outages are common in smaller towns |
What's open and what's closed
December strips the northern areas down to their lower-altitude core.
- Open: Gilgit, Hunza as far as Sost, Nagar, Skardu, Shigar and Khaplu, all reachable by the Karakoram Highway.
- Closed: Babusar Pass, normally shut from around November until late May or June; Deosai, closed by snow from around November to May; the Fairy Meadows jeep track, closed for winter with most lodges shut; and Khunjerab Pass for visitors, since the road to the top is typically closed to tourist traffic through the winter months, even though it has stayed open year-round for cross-border trade since a December 2024 announcement.
- Weather-dependent: the Karakoram Highway itself, which is kept open through winter but has been closed for periods of a day or more after heavy snow or rockfall in recent Decembers.
If a specific pass or plateau is central to your plan, December is not the month; June through September covers all of them.
Getting there: road or flight
By road, the only route into Gilgit-Baltistan in December is the Karakoram Highway through Abbottabad, Besham, Dasu and Chilas, a long two days from Islamabad to Gilgit. The highway is kept open through winter, but it does close: heavy snow and rockfall have shut sections for hours or more than a day at a time in recent winters. Plan on daylight driving only, which makes December's short days feel shorter still, and build at least one spare day into the schedule.
Flights from Islamabad to Gilgit and Skardu run in December when the weather allows, and are the faster option if your dates are fixed. Winter cancellations are more frequent than in summer, so avoid booking a same-day onward connection, and have a road-based backup plan if the flight matters.
Weather: how cold it actually gets
December is properly cold across the region, though the lower valleys are milder than Deosai or Fairy Meadows would be if they were open.
- Skardu averages around 6 °C by day, with nights falling close to freezing or below; a cold spell can take it much lower.
- Hunza and Gilgit see hard frost on most nights, with daytime sun making a real difference to how the cold feels.
- Snow is likely at some point in the month in Hunza and Skardu, and heavier and more frequent higher up the valley towards Sost.
Skies are often clear and dry between snowfalls, which is part of why a winter trip photographs well, but the short days mean less daylight to work with than any other month. Plan any sightseeing or driving for the middle of the day, and expect it to be dark by early evening.
Finding a warm hotel
"Heated" means different things at different price points, and this matters more in December than in any other month.
- Ask specifically what the heating is: central heating, a wood-burning stove, or a gas heater in the room, and whether it runs all night or only in the evening.
- Confirm the hotel is actually open. Some smaller guesthouses, especially outside Gilgit, Hunza's main towns and Skardu, close for winter.
- Expect power cuts. Outages of several hours are common in smaller towns in winter; a hotel with its own generator or solar backup is worth paying more for.
- Bring your own warm sleepwear and a hot water bottle if you have one, even at a hotel that advertises heating, since rooms can still be cold by early morning.
What to pack for December
- A serious winter jacket, thermal base layers and a hat and gloves; valley cold in December is not the same as an April or October evening.
- Warm, waterproof boots with grip, for icy pavements and frosted paths.
- Hand and foot warmers, useful in a hotel room with intermittent heating or during a long stretch of road driving.
- A torch and a fully charged power bank, given how common power cuts are in smaller towns.
- Snow chains, if you're self-driving, or a driver experienced with winter mountain roads if you are hiring a car and driver.
- Any regular medication with you, not in checked baggage, in case a flight is delayed or a road journey runs long.
Who December suits
December suits travellers who want a genuinely quiet, empty version of Hunza and Skardu: frozen ponds, snow on the orchards and none of the summer crowds, and who are comfortable with cold, short days and a slower pace. It is a rewarding month for photography if you dress for it properly.
It does not suit anyone who wants Deosai, Fairy Meadows, Babusar or a Khunjerab day trip, since all four are closed, or anyone travelling on a tight schedule who cannot absorb a day's delay from snow on the highway. For a trip that includes the high country, June through September is the season to plan around instead, and our Gilgit, Hunza and Khunjerab tour and Skardu and Deosai tour both run in that window.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit the northern areas in December?
Yes, but only the lower part of them. Gilgit, Hunza as far as Sost, and Skardu are reachable by road or flight, while Babusar, Deosai, Fairy Meadows and Khunjerab for visitors are all closed for the winter.
Is the Karakoram Highway open in December?
Generally yes, and it's the only road into Gilgit-Baltistan once Babusar is closed. It does close for periods after heavy snow or rockfall, so build a spare day into any December road trip.
Do flights to Gilgit and Skardu run in December?
Yes, weather permitting, but winter cancellations are more common than in summer. Don't book a same-day onward connection if the flight is essential.
How cold does it get in Skardu in December?
Around 6 °C by day on average, with nights close to freezing or below, and colder still during a cold spell.
Is it safe to travel to the northern areas in December?
Gilgit-Baltistan itself carries no current UK government advisory against travel, but the Karakoram Highway between Mansehra and Chilas does, and winter snow and rockfall add further risk on that stretch. Check current advice and road status before you travel, and avoid driving after dark.