The Kalasha of Chitral do not bury their dead in the ground. They lay them in ornamented wooden coffins above ground, in cemeteries on wooded slopes near their villages, and for wealthy or honoured people a carved wooden effigy, called a gandao, may be set up at the grave. A Kalash cemetery, called mahandeo, is a sacred place, not a sightseeing stop, and the right way to treat them as a visitor is to keep away unless a Kalasha host invites you.
This guide explains the customs behind the cemeteries and effigies, what the gandaos look like, where you can legitimately see them, and what respectful behaviour means in practice.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| People | Kalasha, in the Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir valleys, Chitral |
| Burial | In ornamented wooden coffins, above ground |
| Effigies | Gandao (also spelled gandaw), carved wooden figures |
| Wood | Deodar (Himalayan cedar) |
| Where to see them legitimately | Museums, such as the Gandhara National Museum in Peshawar |
| Safety | UK advises against all travel to the Kalash valleys |
How do the Kalasha bury their dead?
The Kalasha, a small non-Muslim community with their own religion, bury their dead above ground in wooden coffins that are often decorated. This is one of the practices that sets them apart from the Muslim majority around them. Cemeteries lie on wooded hilltops near the hamlets, and one writer on Dardic graveyards notes that the sacred trees there are not cut.
Death is marked with music and dancing, not silence. Accounts of Kalasha funerals describe processions with drums and gunfire and a gathering of the whole community. The family feeds everyone who comes, so funerals can be large and costly. Our Kalash religion and beliefs guide and Kalash culture guide set this in the wider context.
Ancestors remain part of daily life. Crows are said to represent the ancestors and are fed, including at tombs.
What is a gandao?
A gandao is a wooden effigy of the dead person, erected over the grave by a son or family. A study of the examples in the Gandhara National Museum describes them as carved from deodar and made in three forms: standing, seated and mounted on a horse. Male figures wear carved turbans, a sign of the power, bravery or influence of the man commemorated, while female figures have horned headdresses. Faces are simple, with round white stones sometimes used for eyes. Tools and weapons, such as bows, axes and daggers, are carved on the body in relief.
Horses are the most common animal in the carving. Several carvers in Rumbur have made a rider on a two-headed horse, a symbol of power.
Not everyone gets one. Gandaos are made for wealthy or honoured people, and the tradition is now rare.
Why are the gandaos disappearing?
The main reason is theft. A report in The Friday Times quoted the Rumbur carver Rehmat Wali saying that more than 40 gandaos in different villages of Rumbur had been stolen and sold abroad, which has made families reluctant to commission new ones. Only a few carvers still make them, including craftsmen in Bumburet and Rumbur.
A separate point comes from museum research: in the early 20th century, small versions of about 40 to 56 cm were made for sale to British collectors. That turned sacred objects into souvenirs, and the pattern has continued in other forms.
How should you behave around cemeteries?
The basic rule is to treat cemeteries as you would a mosque, church or private family graveyard, and to follow what your Kalasha host tells you.
- Do not walk into a cemetery uninvited. It is a sacred place, and people grieving may be there.
- Do not photograph graves, coffins or effigies unless a family member has said you can. Never photograph a funeral in progress.
- Never touch or move anything, and never take a fragment of wood or bone away with you.
- Do not buy a genuine gandao. Taking funerary art away is the loss the Kalasha complain about.
- Ask about funerals first. If a funeral is happening, you may be welcome to stand quietly at a distance, but let your host decide.
- Dress modestly and speak quietly.
Where can you see gandaos legitimately?
The most open way is through collections. The Gandhara National Museum in Peshawar has gandaos on display in its Chitral Hall, according to the museum research above, though you should check that it is open before travelling. Closer to the valleys, our guide to the Kalasha Dur museum covers a local museum of Kalasha life, and our Kalash Valley guide covers the valleys and their etiquette.
Is it safe to visit the Kalash valleys?
The UK government advises against all travel to the Kalash valleys, and against all travel on the N45 from Mardan to Chitral city, which is the usual road in. Pakistani visitors still travel to Bumburet, Rumbur and Birir, particularly around festivals, but you should check local news and current police advice before setting out, and decide with care. Overseas visitors should read their own government's advice first, since going against it can void travel insurance.
Who is this for?
This guide is for travellers who want to understand Kalasha culture before they visit, or who have come across the effigies in photographs and want to know what they are. If your hope is to see a cemetery, plan on not doing so, and spend your time with the festivals, the villages and local hosts instead. Our experiences page and Kalash festival calendar are better starting points.
Frequently asked questions
Do the Kalasha bury their dead in the ground?
No. They place the dead in ornamented wooden coffins above ground, in cemeteries near their villages.
What is a gandao?
A gandao is a carved wooden effigy of a dead person, set up over the grave of a wealthy or honoured person. They are usually deodar wood, and male figures often wear turbans.
Can tourists visit Kalash cemeteries?
You should not go in uninvited. Cemeteries are sacred, and photographing graves or effigies without permission is disrespectful. Let your host guide you.
Why are gandaos being stolen?
Some have been sold abroad. A Rumbur carver told The Friday Times that more than 40 were stolen from Rumbur villages, which has discouraged new commissions.
Where can I see a gandao?
The Gandhara National Museum in Peshawar displays examples in its Chitral Hall. Check opening details before going.
