Bela Town Guide: Gateway to Lasbela and Gondrani

Bela is a small market town in Lasbela District, Balochistan, on the N-25 highway about 180 km north-west of Karachi and roughly 500 km south of Quetta. It is not a sightseeing destination in its own right. It matters because it is the last proper town on the way to the Gondrani caves, and because it is where the road from Karachi starts to climb towards Khuzdar and Quetta.

This guide explains what Bela is, how it fits into a trip, and what to expect if you stop. It does not repeat the guides for the places around it, which are linked below.

Where is Bela and how do you get there?

Bela lies on the N-25, the national highway that runs 813 km from Karachi through Quetta to the border at Chaman. From Karachi you leave the city on the Hub road, cross the Hub River into Balochistan, and continue north-west through Uthal, the district headquarters, to reach Bela. The N-25 is the same road that leads on to Khuzdar and Quetta, so Bela is also a stop for people heading deeper into the province.

Plan on a bit under three hours for the drive from Karachi, as a rough guide, and more if traffic is heavy around the Hub checkpoint or there are queues at security posts. Public buses to Quetta and Khuzdar pass through, but they are long-distance services and not a convenient way to sightsee.

Bela is a different direction from the coast. The Makran Coastal Highway to Kund Malir and Hingol branches off before Bela, so the two trips do not combine easily in one day. Our Makran Coastal Highway itinerary covers the coastal side.

A short history of Bela

Bela's history is older than its appearance suggests. Wikipedia notes that in autumn 325 BC, during Alexander the Great's campaign, the settlement was known as Rhambacia, and that Alexander left his companion Hephaestion to build a city there. In 711 AD it features in the campaign of Muhammad bin Qasim under the name Armabil.

The town later became the capital of the princely state of Las Bela, founded in 1742 by Jam Ali Khan and ruled by his descendants until the state became part of Pakistan. You will see references to the Jam of Lasbela in local politics and place names. Beyond that, the modern town is a working bazaar and administrative centre. Do not go expecting restored monuments or a museum: what survives of the old history is mostly in the surrounding area.

What is there to see in and around Bela?

Within the town there is little for a visitor beyond the bazaar, a few mosques and shrines, and the ordinary street life of a district town. The reasons to stop are the places around it.

The Gondrani caves

The Gondrani caves, also known as Shehr-e-Roghan, are about 20 km north of Bela and roughly 218 km from Karachi. They are carved into soft rock, and accounts say they once numbered around 1,500 caves, of which perhaps 500 survive. Their origin is debated; some historians link them with an early Buddhist settlement. The last stretch of the approach is rough, so check conditions in Bela before you set off. We cover the legend, the route and the safety picture in our Gondrani caves guide.

Shah Noorani

Further north on the N-25 lies the Shah Noorani shrine, a popular pilgrimage stop in the hills. It is a longer and more demanding drive than Gondrani, and best treated as its own trip. See our Shah Noorani guide.

Other places on the district map

Lasbela's beaches and national park are all south or south-west of Bela. If you are building a trip around the whole district, our guide to places to visit in Lasbela shows how Gadani, Sonmiani, Hingol and Gondrani relate to each other.

Using Bela as a stopover

Bela works well as a break on the way to Khuzdar and Quetta, or as the base for a Gondrani day. What to expect:

• Food and tea. Roadside dhabas and small restaurants serve the basics: karahi, daal, roti and chai. Expect simple food, not a menu.
• Fuel. Fill your tank at Uthal or Bela. The roads beyond are long and fuel stations are further apart.
• Cash. Carry cash in small notes, as card machines are rare and ATMs may not be working.
• Rest. There are basic guesthouses in the area, but we have not been able to verify specific ones, and most visitors from Karachi prefer to return the same day. If you plan to stay, ask for current recommendations locally and do not arrive after dark.
• Mobile signal. Coverage is generally available in the town but gets patchy on the roads leading out of it.

Dress modestly and conservatively, as in any small Balochistan town, and ask before photographing people, especially women.

Is Bela safe to visit?

Bela is in Balochistan. The UK government advises against all travel to Balochistan, and for overseas visitors that advice can affect travel insurance. The province has seen attacks on highways and checkposts, and conditions can change quickly.

Pakistani travellers do pass through Bela routinely, on the N-25 and as part of Gondrani day trips. The practical rules are the same as elsewhere in the province:

• Travel in daylight and plan to be back on the main highway before dusk. See our post on the Balochistan night travel restrictions.
• Carry your CNIC and be ready to stop at checkposts. Our CNIC requirements post explains what to expect.
• Check local news and ask police at the Hub checkpost about the road on the day.
• Do not leave the main road for minor tracks without local guidance.

For a wider view, read our is Balochistan safe to travel guide. Foreign passport holders should check their own government's advice first.

Is Bela worth a stop?

If you are driving to Khuzdar or Quetta, it is a convenient place to stretch your legs. If you are going to the Gondrani caves, it is the place to ask about the road and get supplies. If you are looking for a destination in itself, Bela will disappoint. It is a working town whose interest lies in its history and its position, not in things to do.

For a first trip to Lasbela from Karachi, most people are better served by the coast and the Hingol rock formations, which are easier to reach and easier to enjoy in a day or a night.

Frequently asked questions