The Gondrani caves, also called Shehr-e-Roghan, are a cluster of rock-cut rooms in the hills about 20 km north of Bela in Lasbela district, Balochistan. Nobody knows for certain who carved them. Many historians think they were a Buddhist monastery from around the eighth century, and local people tell a different story about a holy woman, Mai Gondrani. Reaching them means a rough unpaved track and a security check before you go, and both are covered below.
This guide explains what the site is, what you will actually see, how the visit works and who should think twice.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Location | About 20 km north of Bela, Lasbela district, Balochistan |
| From Karachi | Roughly 200 to 220 km by the N-25 (RCD) highway, about 3 hours to Bela, then the track |
| Last stretch | Unpaved and bumpy; a 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle is advised |
| Other names | Shehr-e-Roghan, Puraney Ghar (old houses), Mai Gondrani |
| Age | Unknown; often linked to a Buddhist community of around the 8th century |
| Best time | Cooler months, roughly October to February; daylight only |
What are the Gondrani caves?
Gondrani is an archaeological site of rock-cut dwellings carved into soft conglomerate rock at several levels, joined by paths along the hillside. Local people call them Puraney Ghar, the old houses. The name Shehr-e-Roghan is also used for the site.
Each cave is a small room, usually with a hearth, niches in the wall for lamps and a front verandah or porch. During British rule, around 1,500 caves were reported, and about 500 are said to remain, with erosion and lack of upkeep taking the rest.
Who built them?
The honest answer is that nobody knows. Historians who link the site to Buddhism point to the layout, small cells around a community, and to the period when this region was part of Buddhist kingdoms, and suggest a monastery or settlement of about the eighth century. Other writers say the caves show Buddhist characteristics but cannot be tied to that heritage beyond doubt. The site has never been fully excavated or conserved, so many popular descriptions are informed guesses.
The legend of Mai Gondrani
The local story gives the place its name. Mai Gondrani was a holy woman who lived here at a time when the town was said to be troubled by evil spirits or demons. In one version she sacrificed herself to end it; in another she drove the spirits out and lived in the town until she died. A grave known as hers is a local shrine.
Treat this as folklore. It tells you how the community remembers the place, and it explains the name "House of the Spirits" you will see in some articles.
How to get to Gondrani from Karachi
From Karachi the route is the N-25, the RCD highway, west through Hub and on to Bela. That is roughly 200 km and about three hours in good conditions, though slow trucks and stops can add time. Our Karachi to Quetta road guide describes the highway itself.
At Bela you leave the highway and turn onto the Gondrani track. The remaining distance is about 20 km, but the surface is unpaved, rutted and partly washed out in places, so it takes much longer than the distance suggests. Most write-ups advise a 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle. A normal saloon car should not be taken on it.
Practical points:
- Start early from Karachi so you are back on the highway well before dark. The area is very dark at night and the track is hard to follow.
- Fill up before Bela and carry water, food and a spare tyre. Facilities at the site are minimal.
- Mobile coverage can be patchy away from the highway. Download an offline map first.
- Some operators run one-day trips from Karachi. Ask what is included and who the local contact is before paying.
What you will see on the visit
The caves are cut into cliff faces along a valley, with a seasonal stream in it. You walk between cave mouths, peer into the rooms and climb the paths that link the levels. Because many of the rooms are open to the weather and the rock is soft, watch your footing and do not climb into unstable upper caves.
Expect a couple of hours on site. There are no proper trails, signs or interpretation, so it is more a walk among ruins than a museum visit. Please leave the caves as you find them: carving names into the rock is already a problem at heritage sites across the country.
Is it safe to visit Gondrani?
The UK government advises against all travel to Balochistan, and it says this can affect travel insurance. Lasbela is in Balochistan, so overseas visitors should read their own government's current advice and check with their insurer.
Pakistani visitors from Karachi do make the trip, mostly as a day out, and the N-25 to Bela is one of the busier roads in the province. Even so, the situation changes. Before setting out, check recent local news, ask the district police or your operator about the current position on the route, tell someone your plan and keep to daylight. Security incidents have occurred across Balochistan in recent years, so do not treat the trip as casual. If in doubt, choose a different day or a different destination.
Is Gondrani worth the trip?
It suits people who like archaeology, ruins and off-road driving, and who are comfortable with a long day and few facilities. If you enjoy Hingol or the coast road, it can be combined into a longer Lasbela trip, which our Hingol National Park guide helps you plan.
It is a poor choice for families with small children, anyone expecting a managed heritage site, or a group without a suitable vehicle. In summer it is very hot and there is almost no shade, so October to February is the sensible window. Browse our destinations and travel guide for easier alternatives.
Frequently asked questions
Where are the Gondrani caves?
Near Bela in Lasbela district, Balochistan, about 20 km north of the town and roughly 200 to 220 km from Karachi.
Who built the Gondrani caves?
It is not known. Many historians suggest a Buddhist monastery or community of about the eighth century, but this is a theory, not a proven fact.
Do you need a 4x4 for Gondrani?
A 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle is generally advised because the last stretch after Bela is unpaved and rough.
Is there an entry fee at Gondrani?
Sources we checked mention no fixed entry fee, and facilities are minimal. Bring cash for fuel and food in Bela.
When is the best time to visit Gondrani?
The cooler months, roughly October to February. Summer is very hot with little shade, and you should always leave in daylight.
Who is Mai Gondrani?
She is a holy woman in local legend who is said to have rid the town of evil spirits. A grave attributed to her is treated as a shrine.
