Lahore: a thousand years of capitals
Ghaznavid, Mughal, Sikh and British in turn — and the food, the gardens and the Walled City that each of them left behind.
Read itPunjab
A UNESCO site half an hour from Islamabad, three cities deep, and arguably the oldest centre of learning in South Asia.
Taxila is about 32 kilometres north-west of Islamabad, which makes it the easiest world-class archaeological site to reach in Pakistan and the one most visitors still miss.
It is not one ruin. It is three separate ancient cities, several monasteries and a museum, spread across a valley, and you need most of a day.
The city was founded around 1000 BCE and became a capital of the Gandhara civilisation, sitting on the junction between South and Central Asia. Darius I took it for the Achaemenids around 516 BCE.
Alexander arrived in 326 BCE and the local king, whom the Greeks called Taxiles, surrendered without a fight. The Mauryans held it within a decade of Alexander's departure, and Ashoka served as its governor before becoming emperor. Indo-Greek rulers followed in the second century BCE, and the Kushans by 76 CE — Kanishka founded the third city, Sirsukh.
Taxila's reputation as a seat of learning is old and genuinely debated. Whether it was a university in the modern sense, or a concentration of individual teachers taking students, is not settled. Either way, people came here to study for centuries.
It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980.
October to March. Half an hour from Islamabad, which makes it an easy day trip on either end of a northern journey. Take the museum first, then the sites.
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