Sethi House, Peshawar: A Merchant Haveli You Can Visit

Sethi House is a restored 19th-century merchant's mansion in Peshawar's old city, built by a trading family whose business reached into Central Asia, and it is one of the few grand havelis in the walled city you can actually go inside. It sits halfway along the restored heritage trail between the clock tower and Gor Khuttree, and it is generally open daily except Friday, with a small entry fee.

This guide covers who the Sethis were, what the house looks like inside, how to visit, and where it fits in an old Peshawar day.

Who were the Sethis?

The Sethis were a Peshawari merchant family whose trading network extended through Central Asia, reportedly as far as Russia, in the decades before the First World War. Trade on that scale made them among the wealthiest families in the city, and the houses they built in the quarter that still bears their name, Mohallah Sethian, were meant to show it. Several Sethi houses survive in various states of repair; the one now open to visitors is the best preserved.

The house

Sethi House was completed in the 1880s, one of a number of grand houses the family built in the same lane. It is built around a central courtyard, in the manner common to old Peshawar's merchant houses, with living space arranged over several storeys and a cool basement designed for the worst of the summer heat.

What sets it apart is the decoration:

• Carved wooden doors, screens and balconies (jharokas), worked by hand in geometric and floral patterns typical of the period.
• Coloured glass, imported from Europe, set into windows and skylights in a way that was unusual for Peshawar at the time and marked the family's wealth and outward-facing trade connections.
• A layout for both privacy and airflow, with the courtyard drawing light and air into rooms that would otherwise be closed off from the street, as was normal for a conservative merchant household.

Walking through it gives a sense of how a wealthy trading family lived in the old city, in a way that the bazaars outside, however atmospheric, do not.

History since the Sethis

The house passed out of the family's hands and fell into disrepair over the 20th century, along with most of the other grand havelis in the quarter. The provincial government bought it in 2006 and restored it as a heritage building, and it has operated as a museum under the Directorate of Archaeology and Museums, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa since 2010, alongside its other Peshawar properties such as Gor Khuttree and the Peshawar Museum.

Not every Sethi-era house nearby has had the same treatment. Several of the other merchant houses along the same lane are still standing but closed, in poor condition, or in private hands, so Sethi House itself is the one to plan a visit around.

Visiting: hours, fee and what to expect

Reported opening hours have generally run from 9 am to 5 pm, with Friday as the weekly closure, in line with the other government-run heritage sites in Peshawar. Timings for public buildings in Pakistan change without much notice, so treat this as a guide and confirm locally, at the Directorate's other sites or with a guide, on the day.

There is a modest entry fee, paid in cash at the gate; it has changed more than once in recent years, so bring more than you expect to need. Photography is normally allowed inside, though ask before photographing any staff.

Give the house 45 minutes to an hour. That is enough to walk the courtyard, the main reception rooms and the upper floor without rushing, and to look properly at the woodwork, which repays a slow look rather than a quick pass.

Getting there

Sethi House sits on the restored heritage trail that runs east from Ghanta Ghar, the Cunningham Clock Tower, through Bazaar-e-Kalan and Mohallah Sethian to Gor Khuttree. It is not reachable by car; the old city's lanes are too narrow. Take the BRT to Khyber Bazaar or Hashtnagri station, then walk or take a short rickshaw ride into the old city, or arrive on foot as part of a longer walking route.

Our old Peshawar walking tour places Sethi House between the clock tower and Gor Khuttree, and our guide to places to visit in Peshawar sets it alongside the rest of the old city's sights.

Is it worth the visit?

Yes, for anyone interested in the old city's history beyond the bazaars. Most of Peshawar's other historic mansions, including the ancestral homes of Raj Kapoor and Dilip Kumar in the same old city, are closed to the public and close to collapse, which makes Sethi House unusual: a comparable building that has been properly restored and that you can actually walk through.

It suits visitors with an interest in architecture and history more than anyone looking for a quick photo stop; the appeal is in the detail, not a single dramatic view. Combine it with the rest of the heritage trail rather than making a special trip for the house alone.

Frequently asked questions