Rainbow Lake is at Domel, a meadow and forest about 40 to 50 minutes by jeep beyond Minimarg, in the south of Astore district close to the Line of Control. It takes its name from the way its colour shifts through the day, from turquoise to green. You reach it by 4x4 from Astore over the Burzil Pass, about four to five hours each way with the checkposts, so if you want real time at the lake, plan a night in one of the tent camps at Domel.
This guide is about the last part of the journey: finding Domel, what the lakes are like, how the camps work and how to plan the day. For the drive over the Burzil, the ID checks and the season, see our Minimarg guide.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Domel, beyond Minimarg, Astore district |
| Altitude | Domel is at about 2,950 m on the tourism department's map |
| From Minimarg | About 40 to 50 minutes by jeep |
| From Astore town | About 4 to 5 hours each way by 4x4, with checkposts |
| Season | Roughly July to September |
| Where to sleep | Seasonal tent camps at Domel; very limited |
| Documents | Original CNIC; foreigners need special permission |
| Signal | Little or none |
Where is Rainbow Lake?
The Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department lists it as Domail Rainbow Lake, "located in Minimarg Astore valley". In practice it is a little further on than Minimarg itself. From the village the jeep track continues through the valley to Domel, an open stretch of meadow with forest on the slopes, where the lake lies.
Domel is one of the last places on the Pakistani side before the Line of Control. Soldiers and army posts are part of the landscape, and some of the ground around it, including the higher lakes towards the border, is off-limits. You go where the track and the checkposts allow, and no further.
Getting from Minimarg to Domel
By the time you reach Minimarg you have already done the hard part: the long climb from Astore to Chilim and the crossing of the Burzil Pass. The last leg is short.
- Check in at Minimarg. There is a post as you enter the village. Your names, CNICs and vehicle number are noted again, and this is the place to ask whether anything is closed that day.
- Drive on to Domel. Allow 40 to 50 minutes on a rough, unpaved track. It stays 4x4 country, and in wet weather it is slow.
- Park near the lake or the camps. The jeep track reaches Domel, so there is no long walk. Once there, you can walk around the lake shore and the meadow on foot.
Timing is what catches people out. The checkposts on the way have stopped letting vehicles through from the early or mid-afternoon in past seasons, and Domel is at the far end of a long road. Leave Astore at first light.
What the lakes are like
Rainbow Lake is the main lake at Domel. It is fed by streams and springs off the surrounding slopes, and on a sunny day its colour runs from turquoise to deep green depending on the light and the time of day, which is where the name comes from. The meadows around it are covered in flowers in high summer.
Close by is a second, very clear lake, usually called Crystal Lake, which is fed by cold springs. The two together, with the forest behind, are what most people come to photograph.
A few honest caveats:
- The weather decides what you see. The tourism department warns that visitors sometimes arrive to find the lake hidden by fog or rain. Mornings are often clearer than afternoons.
- The colours need sun. Under cloud they fade, and the lake looks nothing like the brightest photographs you will have seen online.
- Boats come and go. Small boats or rafts have been offered on the lake in some seasons. Don't count on it, and wear a life jacket if one is offered; the water is very cold.
Camping at Domel
For most people, a night at Domel is the way to see the lake properly, in the morning light rather than in the rush before the checkposts close.
In recent seasons local operators have set up tent camps near the lakes, with tents, bedding and simple meals. They are the main accommodation at Domel. Book before you leave Astore, through your hotel or jeep driver, and confirm what the price includes: the tent, meals, blankets and toilet access are not always part of the same deal.
Some visitors have also stayed in army accommodation by prior arrangement. Don't turn up expecting a room.
If you bring your own tent, ask at the Minimarg post or at the camps where you may pitch it. Where camping is allowed is decided locally and changes, and pitching near a military post or towards the border is not allowed.
Wherever you sleep, be ready for the cold. Domel is at about 2,950 metres, and nights are cold even in August. Bring:
- A warm sleeping bag or ask the camp for extra blankets
- A warm jacket, hat and gloves for the evening and early morning
- A torch or headlamp
- Water purification tablets or a filter if you plan to use stream water
- A bag to carry your rubbish back to Astore
Cook on gas rather than firewood, keep noise down at night, and leave the lake shore as you found it.
Rules near the Line of Control
Domel sits in a controlled area, and the rules are there for a reason.
- Don't photograph soldiers, posts, bunkers or military vehicles.
- Don't fly drones. They are not allowed here.
- Don't wander. Stay on the track, around the lakes and in the meadows. The lakes further up towards the border are off-limits, and unmarked ground near the Line of Control is dangerous.
- Keep your CNIC on you at all times, not in the tent.
Foreign nationals need special permission to come here at all, and the UK government advises against all travel within 10 miles of the Line of Control, which takes in Domel. Anyone travelling on a foreign passport should check their own government's advice and their insurance before considering it.
Day trip or overnight?
As a day trip from Astore, it is possible but exhausting: eight to ten hours of driving on rough roads, with little time at the lake before you have to turn back. Only do it if you have no other option and are prepared to leave at dawn.
With a night at Domel, the trip makes sense. Drive in on the first day with time to walk around the lakes in the afternoon, see them again early the next morning when the light is best, and drive back to Astore by the afternoon. If the weather closes in on the first day, you have a second chance.
If a Minimarg trip isn't possible this year, Astore has an easier lake above a forest meadow: Rama Lake, an hour's jeep ride and a two-hour walk from Astore town, with no checkposts. Our round-up of the best lakes in Pakistan has others.
Is Rainbow Lake worth it?
If you are already going to Minimarg, yes: Domel is the reason most people make the trip, and it would be a waste to turn back at the village. With a night at the camps and some luck with the weather, it is one of the most rewarding lake trips in Gilgit-Baltistan.
It is harder to justify as a standalone goal. It costs a 4x4 for two days, uncertain rules, a narrow season and the risk of arriving in fog. Families with small children, anyone short of time and every foreign visitor should look at Rama, Rupal or the Deosai road instead.
To plan a trip that includes Minimarg and Domel, send us your dates on our trip planning page.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Rainbow Lake in Minimarg?
At Domel, about 40 to 50 minutes by jeep beyond Minimarg village, in the south of Astore district close to the Line of Control.
Is Rainbow Lake natural?
It is fed by streams and springs off the surrounding slopes, with a second spring-fed lake, Crystal Lake, close by. Accounts differ on whether it has been enlarged by people, so treat any firm claim either way with caution.
Can you camp at Rainbow Lake?
Yes, in the seasonal tent camps at Domel, which should be booked from Astore. Pitching your own tent is allowed only where the checkposts or camps say it is.
How long does it take to reach Rainbow Lake from Astore?
About four to five hours each way by 4x4, over the Burzil Pass and through several checkposts. An overnight stay at Domel is much better than a day trip.
Why is it called Rainbow Lake?
Because its colour changes with the light through the day, from turquoise to deep green. It is at its most colourful on a clear, sunny day.
