Nangsoq: Skardu's Organic Village by the Indus

Nangsoq village, also written Nansoq, is a small farming settlement on the Indus behind the Kharpocho rock, about 3 km from Skardu and reachable only on foot, because no road goes to it. It has been run as an organic village since the mid-2000s, and in November 2006 the then Prince of Wales was flown in to see it. For visitors it is a half-day walk from town to a place where the approach is as much the point as the destination.

This guide covers how to get there, what a visit involves, what facilities exist and how long to set aside.

Why is Nangsoq called the organic village?

The name comes from a development project. The Aga Khan Foundation supported a programme here to show that organic farming could pay in the mountains, and the Aga Khan Rural Support Programme is credited with giving the village its organic status. Most accounts date that to 2006. In practice it means crops are grown without chemical fertiliser or pesticide.

On 3 November 2006 the village had its most famous visitors. Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall, hosted by the Aga Khan, arrived by helicopter on the last day of a tour of the Northern Areas. Dawn reported that they walked among the houses, watched residents at their daily work and tried dishes at a Balti food stall. The Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department has listed Nangsoq as Pakistan's first organic village on the strength of that history.

It helps to arrive with the right expectations. This is a real village of fields, orchards and traditional Balti houses, not a visitor centre, and there are no displays explaining the farming.

How to get to Nangsoq

There is no road and no vehicle bridge. The only way in for visitors is the footpath.

The walk. It starts near Hussaini Chowk in Skardu, at the foot of the track up to Kharpocho Fort. The path goes around the base of the rock and follows the bank of the Indus for about 3 km, on sand and stones, rising gently, with several small wooden bridges over side channels. Operators describe it as a beginner's trek that takes around an hour. You return the same way.

By boat. Some tour operators mention crossing by local boat from the Chumik side. Other accounts say the boat is what villagers use in emergencies, such as getting a patient to hospital, and is not a visitor service. Treat it as something to ask your hotel about, not something to count on.

The path is not signposted. If you have not done it before, go with a guide or ask your hotel to send someone; several Skardu operators sell it as a half-day village walk. Fees for a guide are agreed locally, and we could not verify a standard rate.

What a visit involves

The appeal is the walk and the setting: the river on one side, the Kharpocho cliffs on the other, and then fields, vegetable plots and fruit trees. Villagers grow vegetables and fruit and catch fish from the river. Ask before picking anything, and before photographing people or going into a courtyard.

• Food. A small village restaurant serves Balti dishes made with local produce. It is worth timing the walk around lunch, but tell your hotel or guide in advance so someone knows you are coming.
• The spring. There is a clear spring at the far end of the village where some visitors swim. The Indus itself is cold, silty and fast. Do not swim in the river.
• Fishing and the fish farm. Operators mention both. Fishing in Gilgit-Baltistan needs a licence, so check before you cast a line; see our trout fishing guide.
• Camping. People camp beside the river, and one operator says gear can be rented locally. Confirm this before relying on it.
• Staying the night. There are no hotels. A 2022 account describes one old house converted into a guest house with a couple of rooms, so availability has to be checked ahead.

What the village does not have

It has no school and no clinic. Children walk the same path to Skardu every day for school, which tells you both that the route is manageable and that it is the villagers' only link to town. There are no shops to rely on, and no mobile coverage should be assumed along the river.

That is also why visitors should tread lightly. Carry all rubbish back to Skardu, keep to the paths between fields, and pay a fair price for food.

What to carry

• Water, at least a litre each, and a hat. There is almost no shade on the riverbank.
• Shoes with grip. The path is sandy and uneven.
• Sunscreen. Skardu is above 2,200 metres and the sun is strong.
• Cash in small notes for food.
• A light jacket outside high summer, because the wind along the river is cold.

If you have just flown in from the plains, give yourself a day in Skardu before walking. The route is easy, but at this altitude an easy walk feels harder than it should on the first day.

Best time to visit

May to October. This is the growing season, when there is something in the fields and on the trees to see. In the middle of a July day the riverbank is hot and exposed, so start early or go in the late afternoon.

From November to March there is little growing and Skardu is well below freezing at night. Avoid the path during or just after heavy rain, when the ground under the cliffs may be unstable.

Is it worth visiting?

Yes, if you like a slow outing and are happy to walk an hour each way. It is quite different from the lakes and forts that fill most Skardu itineraries, and it pairs naturally with Kharpocho Fort above it: fort in the morning, village and lunch after.

It is not for everyone. The path is unsuitable for pushchairs and difficult for anyone unsteady on rough ground, and if you expect an organised attraction you will be disappointed. Short on time? Skardu's better-known sights fill a day more easily. For more of the background, read our Balti culture guide, and our plan a trip page can help fit a half-day like this into a wider itinerary.

Frequently asked questions