Christ Church Rawalpindi: The 1854 Garrison Church

Christ Church Rawalpindi is the city's oldest church, a Gothic garrison church in the cantonment whose foundation was laid in 1852 and which was completed in 1854 for British troops. It stands on the main square beside GHQ, the Pakistan Army's headquarters, and is still a working Anglican church of the Church of Pakistan with a full congregation on Sundays. Visitors are generally welcome to look inside, but you will pass security first, and the setting means you should keep your camera away from anything military.

This guide covers the church's history, what to look for inside, how services and visits work, and what else to see in the cantonment.

Why was Christ Church built?

In 1851 the Governor-General, Lord Dalhousie, approved Rawalpindi as a permanent cantonment, and Her Majesty's 53rd Regiment was stationed here. Until then, services were held in a temporary chapel. The foundation of a proper church for the officers and soldiers was laid in 1852, and the building was finished within two years, in 1854.

Rawalpindi went on to become a major garrison and the seat of the British Northern Command, whose headquarters building is now GHQ. Christ Church grew with it as the garrison's main place of worship. The second-oldest church in the city, St Paul's, a Presbyterian church opposite GHQ, was not begun until 1876, which gives a sense of how early Christ Church is.

What does Christ Church look like?

It is built in the Gothic style on a cruciform plan, the shape of a cross when seen from above. Inside you find pointed arches and a vaulted wooden ceiling, and outside a bell tower of local brick and stone.

Things to look for once you are inside:

• The stained glass on the east and west sides, showing Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary.
• The woodwork. The altar, lectern and pulpit carry carved detail made by craftsmen from Kashmir, and there is an old wooden Bible stand.
• The memorial plaques. Marble and brass tablets cover the walls, remembering soldiers who died on the North-West Frontier between the 1850s and the 1940s. Many record death from fever rather than battle, which is its own quiet comment on frontier service.
• The mean sea level marker. A stone marker records the height above mean sea level, one of the reference points used for surveying and mapping in British times.

The building has been renovated in recent decades. The Victorian Web, a history site that photographed it, notes that the exterior plaster was stripped and the roof re-tiled, with results not everyone likes, but describes the church as very well kept.

Can you attend a Sunday service?

Yes. Christ Church is a living parish, not a museum, and the congregation fills it on Sundays. We could not confirm current service times or which services are in Urdu and which in English, so ask at the gate during the week or check with the church office before you plan around one.

If you go to a service, arrive a little early, as security checks take time. Sit towards the back if you are a visitor, silence your phone, and do not photograph during worship. Christmas and Easter bring the biggest crowds and the tightest security of the year.

Visiting etiquette and security

The church sits in one of the most sensitive areas of the city, next to the army's headquarters, and churches in Pakistan generally keep guards and gate checks. Plan for that:

• Carry your CNIC, or your passport if you are a foreign visitor.
• Explain at the gate that you would like to see the church, and accept the answer if you are asked to come back another time.
• Do not photograph GHQ, checkpoints, soldiers or any military building, and ask before taking pictures inside the church.
• Dress modestly: covered shoulders and knees, and a scarf for women is appreciated though not required.
• Visit outside service times if you want to walk around and read the memorials.

We found no entry fee. A donation to the church is a kind gesture if you were shown around.

What else is nearby?

The church makes an easy start to a cantonment half day. The Pakistan Army Museum is close by in the GHQ area, Saddar Bazaar is a short drive for food and shopping, and Ayub National Park is the place for the afternoon if you have children with you.

If old churches are your interest, our guide to Christian heritage in Pakistan puts Christ Church alongside the cathedrals of Karachi, Lahore and Peshawar. Do not confuse it with the church on Mall Road in Murree that many people search for as Christ Church; our Christ Church Murree guide explains that one. For other ideas around the twin cities, see our experiences page.

Is it worth visiting?

For anyone interested in colonial architecture, military history or Pakistan's Christian community, yes: the memorials alone are a century of frontier history on one set of walls. It is a short stop, though, and not a sight to cross the city for on its own. Pair it with the Army Museum and Saddar, and accept that on some days security may not let casual visitors in.

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