Bedi Mahal in Kallar Syedan is the 19th-century palace of Baba Khem Singh Bedi, a Sikh religious leader descended from Guru Nanak, about 40 km from Islamabad in Rawalpindi district. It is a large sandstone haveli in the narrow lanes of the old town, with painted rooms showing the Sikh Gurus, Hindu deities and the Golden Temple. It has stood empty since a government school moved out in 1996, so expect a fine but decaying building, not a restored museum.
This guide covers who Khem Singh Bedi was, what survives inside, its condition, how to get there, and what to pair it with nearby.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Old town of Kallar Syedan, Rawalpindi district |
| From Islamabad | About 40 km |
| Built by | Baba Khem Singh Bedi (1832 to 1905) |
| Built | Second half of the 19th century (sources differ) |
| Materials | Sandstone and burnt brick, lime mortar, walls about a metre thick |
| Condition | Abandoned since 1996; structure sound, woodwork and frescoes decaying |
| Entry | No official opening hours or fee we could confirm |
Who was Baba Khem Singh Bedi?
Khem Singh Bedi was born on 21 February 1832 and was a direct descendant of Guru Nanak, fourteenth in line according to Wikipedia. His family moved to Kallar Syedan when he was about 16, around 1848. He became one of the most influential Sikh figures in colonial Punjab and a leading voice in the Singh Sabha reform movement.
His standing with the British came partly from helping them put down the rising at Gugera during the 1857 revolt. He was appointed a magistrate in 1877, nominated to the Viceroy's Legislative Council in 1893 and knighted in 1898. He died on 10 April 1905 at Montgomery, now Sahiwal.
What people in the Pothohar remember him for is education. He is credited with opening more than 50 schools in Rawalpindi district, and with supporting schooling for girls at a time when that was rare.
When was Bedi Mahal built?
Sources do not agree. Wikipedia places it in the 1850s, or more broadly the second half of the 19th century, after the family settled here. A piece in The News on Sunday gives 1836, which does not sit easily with a builder born in 1832, so we treat the later dating as more likely. What is clear is that Khem Singh Bedi paid for it from the money he earned in British service.
What does the palace look like?
It is a classic Punjabi haveli on a large scale, built around a central courtyard ringed by pillars, with balconies, windows and heavy wooden gates. Accounts describe four storeys above ground plus a basement, and the number of rooms is given anywhere from 22 to 84.
The walls are of sandstone and burnt brick laid in lime mortar, about a metre thick, and Wikipedia notes ashlar masonry bonded with lime and jute fibre. The carving and painting were done by craftsmen from nearby Attock. The household once had stables, a small zoo and an orchard.
The frescoes inside
The painted rooms are the reason to go. The walls show the Sikh Gurus, including Guru Tegh Bahadur, Baba Sri Chand, Sikh warriors and saints, Hindu gods and goddesses and ascetics. One room has a painting of the Golden Temple in Amritsar, and some writers mention Muslim figures among the scenes, a mix that says a good deal about the region before 1947.
Many of the interior paintings have faded or flaked badly. The murals in the courtyard are in better shape and are the easiest to photograph.
What happened to Bedi Mahal after 1947?
During the Partition riots the haveli sheltered Sikhs from the violence; estimates of how many range from about 400 to 5,000. In 1948 it became the Government Boys High School, Kallar Syedan, and a Dawn writer later noted that staff and students had largely left the painted figures alone. The school moved to a new building in 1996, and the palace has been empty since.
Today it is used mainly as a location for television commercials and visited by Sikh pilgrims and heritage-minded travellers. Reports from Dawn in 2015 and The News since describe sagging ceilings, termite and fungal damage, and fading paint, although the masonry itself is still strong enough that restoration remains possible. We found no confirmed restoration project as of 2026.
How do you reach Bedi Mahal from Islamabad or Rawalpindi?
The haveli is in the old part of Kallar Syedan, reached through narrow lanes beside the Kanshi ravine, off the road towards Kashmir.
- Drive to Kallar Syedan. From Rawalpindi, most people take the Kahuta Road through Sihala; the town is also reachable from the GT Road side via Rawat and Chowk Pindori. Slow, long-running work on the Rawalpindi to Kahuta road means diversions are likely.
- Park in town. The lanes near the haveli are tight, so leave the car on a main road and walk the last part.
- Ask locally for Bedi Mahal if the lanes confuse your map.
Local buses and vans run from Rawalpindi to Kallar Syedan if you do not have a car.
Can you go inside?
There is no official ticket office, opening schedule or guide service that we could confirm. Visitors and advertising crews do go in, but arrangements are informal, so ask locally rather than assuming the gate will be open. If you do get in, take care: ceilings, wooden floors and stairs are decaying, and children should be kept close. Do not touch or lean on the painted plaster.
Who should visit, and what to pair it with
Bedi Mahal suits anyone interested in Sikh history, painted havelis or the Pothohar before Partition, and photographers who do not mind a ruin. It is a poor choice if you want facilities, signage or a family outing with small children.
Make it a half day by adding Sangni Fort, the Mughal-era fort with a Sufi shrine inside, about 11 km away, or the Gakhar stronghold at Pharwala Fort near Kahuta. For other Sikh sites in the country, see our Sikh heritage guide, and for more old mansions, our overview of havelis in Pakistan. More ideas for outings from the twin cities are on our experiences page.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Bedi Mahal?
In the old town of Kallar Syedan, Rawalpindi district, about 40 km from Islamabad.
Who built Bedi Mahal?
Baba Khem Singh Bedi, a Sikh religious and political leader descended from Guru Nanak, in the second half of the 19th century.
Is Bedi Mahal open to visitors?
There are no official opening hours or tickets that we could confirm. People do visit, but ask locally about access and treat the building as unsafe in places.
What is inside Bedi Mahal?
A courtyard haveli of several storeys with frescoes of the Sikh Gurus, Hindu deities, ascetics and the Golden Temple, many faded, the best surviving in the courtyard.
Was Bedi Mahal a school?
Yes. It housed the Government Boys High School, Kallar Syedan, from 1948 until 1996.
