Blind Lake (Zharba Tso) in Shigar: Access and Camping

Blind Lake in Shigar, known locally as Zharba Tso, is a narrow lake about 1.4 km long at the entrance to the Shigar valley, between the Indus and the Shigar river on the edge of the Sarfaranga desert. It is about half an hour from Skardu, reached by a short rough track off the Skardu–Shigar road and a short walk. It is called blind because no stream visibly flows in or out; it is fed, as far as anyone can tell, by water seeping through from the Indus.

It is a quiet place, far less visited than the Kachura lakes, and it fits easily into a day at Shigar Fort and the dunes. This guide covers the name, how to get there, when to go, and camping beside the water.

Why is it called Blind Lake?

Tso is the Balti word for a lake, and zharba means blind, so Zharba Tso is simply the local name translated: the blind lake.

The usual explanation is that the lake has no visible source. No river or stream runs into it and none runs out, yet it holds water all year. The water is thought to come from underneath, seeping through from the Indus, which runs close by. Some people also say the name fits because the lake stays hidden until you are almost at its edge.

Don't confuse it with Sheosar on the Deosai plateau, whose Shina name also translates as "blind lake". That is a high-altitude lake at over 4,100 metres, three to four hours from Skardu by jeep; our Sheosar Lake guide covers it. The Blind Lake near Shigar is on the valley floor and needs no jeep day.

How to get there from the Shigar road

The lake is on the way from Skardu to Shigar. The main road leaves Skardu, crosses the Indus about 20 minutes out of town and runs past the Sarfaranga dunes towards the entrance of the Shigar valley. The lake lies off this road, on higher ground between the two rivers.

1. Drive towards Shigar on the paved road, which any car manages. Our Skardu to Shigar guide covers the route.
2. Turn off onto the track near the entrance to the valley. It is short but rough and rocky, and a 4x4 or a high-clearance car with a local driver is the better choice. Ask your driver to take you; local drivers know the turning.
3. Walk the last part. Expect to walk the final stretch over sand, rocks and patches of grass, up to half an hour depending on where you leave the vehicle. Wear proper shoes.

If you are driving yourself in an ordinary car, park where the track turns rough and walk in rather than risk the sump. Don't drive onto soft sand.

What to do there

The appeal of Blind Lake is that there is not much to do. It is a long, still stretch of water between bare hills and dunes, with the mountains of the Shigar valley behind it, and on most days you will share it with very few people.

• Walk the shore. Walking the whole way round is hard going over uneven rocks, so most people stay near where they arrive.
• Photographs. Still water early and late in the day gives the best reflections of the hills. The light over Sarfaranga in the late afternoon makes a good end to the visit.
• A picnic. Bring food and water with you, and take every scrap of rubbish home.

The lake has hosted rafting competitions, but don't count on finding a boat to hire, and swimming is not a good idea. There are no lifeguards, the depth is unknown to most visitors, and help is a long way off. Keep children well back from the edge.

When to go

Mid-May to October is the best time. The days are warm, the track is dry and the water is open. September and October bring clear air, and in the second half of October the poplars around Shigar turn gold.

November to March is cold, and the lake partly freezes. The walk in can be icy, and the short days leave little light. A winter visit is possible in settled weather, but keep it short and be back on the main road well before dark.

Time of day. Morning and late afternoon are best, for softer light and cooler temperatures. At midday in summer the glare off the water and sand is strong, and there is little shade.

Camping at Blind Lake

Some visitors camp by the lake for the quiet and the night sky. It is not an organised campsite, so camping here means bringing everything yourself and following a few rules.

• Ask locally first. Ask in Shigar or Sarfaranga, or ask your driver, whether and where it is fine to pitch a tent, and keep away from fields and water channels.
• Bring all your water and food. Don't rely on stalls or on drinking the lake water.
• Expect cold nights and wind. Even in summer, nights are cool, and the wind can be strong on open ground. Bring a warm sleeping bag and stake the tent well.
• Keep a vehicle within reach, or camp with a local driver, in case someone falls ill or the weather turns.
• No fires, and no rubbish left behind. In a dry place like this, whatever you leave stays for years.

For most families, a night in Skardu or at Shigar and a morning visit to the lake gives the same stillness without the discomfort. Our guide to camping in Gilgit-Baltistan covers gear and campsites across the region.

How to fit it into a day

Blind Lake works best as part of a Shigar day rather than a trip on its own:

1. Morning at Shigar Fort and the Amburiq mosque. Our Shigar Fort guide covers the museum and tickets.
2. Lunch in Shigar, then a slow afternoon in the orchards.
3. Blind Lake in the late afternoon, on the way back down the valley.
4. Sarfaranga for sunset, then back to Skardu in half an hour.

If you would like us to build this, or a longer trip around Baltistan, into a plan that fits your dates, tell us what you have in mind and we will suggest a route.

Is Blind Lake worth visiting?

Yes, if you are going to Shigar and like quiet places. It is a pleasant hour, and it shows a side of the Skardu area that the busy lakes at Kachura don't. It is not a dramatic sight, and if your time in Skardu is short, Shigar Fort, the dunes and the Kachura lakes should come first.

It is also a poor choice for anyone who struggles with walking on uneven ground, since the last part is on foot over rocks and sand. For the other lakes around Skardu, from Kachura to Satpara, see our overview of lakes in Gilgit-Baltistan.

Frequently asked questions