Swat: the valley that was Uddiyana
Five hundred monasteries stood here in 403 CE. A surprising amount of it is still standing, and almost none of it is behind glass.
Read itKhyber Pakhtunkhwa
Pakistan's best-known ski slope sits at 2,804 metres, an hour above a valley full of apple trees — and it came back from being burned down.
Forty kilometres from Saidu Sharif, the road out of the Swat valley climbs through orchards and then through forest and comes out on a ridge at 2,804 metres. In winter there is snow on it, and a chairlift up the side of it, and a queue of Pakistani families learning to ski.
It is not the Alps and does not claim to be. The slope runs a little over 800 metres. What makes it worth the drive is everything around it.
The resort was built as a joint Pakistani-Austrian project, and for a while it was genuinely well equipped — chairlifts, skating rinks, snow clearing, the lot. For a generation of Pakistani travellers it was where you learned to ski.
In June 2008 Taliban militants burned it. The hotel, several houses and the chairlift went; a large part of the resort was reduced to ash. For years afterwards Malam Jabba was a place people talked about in the past tense.
It came back. A new 800-metre chairlift was inaugurated in September 2016, and a 76-room hotel opened in 2020. The rebuilding of Malam Jabba is, locally, shorthand for the rebuilding of Swat tourism in general — which by recent counts accounts for something like 38 per cent of the district's economy.
Snow is usually reliable from December to February. Weekdays are markedly quieter than weekends. The summer chairlift runs through the warm months and pairs well with a Gandharan archaeology day lower in the valley.
Also on Swat Valley
Five hundred monasteries stood here in 403 CE. A surprising amount of it is still standing, and almost none of it is behind glass.
Read itTimeless beauty · Serene waters · Living culture
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