Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

Malam Jabba: snow above the orchards

Pakistan's best-known ski slope sits at 2,804 metres, an hour above a valley full of apple trees — and it came back from being burned down.

Malam Jabba: snow above the orchards

Forty kilometres from Saidu Sharif, the road out of the Swat valley climbs through orchards and then through forest and comes out on a ridge at 2,804 metres. In winter there is snow on it, and a chairlift up the side of it, and a queue of Pakistani families learning to ski.

It is not the Alps and does not claim to be. The slope runs a little over 800 metres. What makes it worth the drive is everything around it.

A short history

The resort was built as a joint Pakistani-Austrian project, and for a while it was genuinely well equipped — chairlifts, skating rinks, snow clearing, the lot. For a generation of Pakistani travellers it was where you learned to ski.

In June 2008 Taliban militants burned it. The hotel, several houses and the chairlift went; a large part of the resort was reduced to ash. For years afterwards Malam Jabba was a place people talked about in the past tense.

It came back. A new 800-metre chairlift was inaugurated in September 2016, and a 76-room hotel opened in 2020. The rebuilding of Malam Jabba is, locally, shorthand for the rebuilding of Swat tourism in general — which by recent counts accounts for something like 38 per cent of the district's economy.

Places worth your time

The chairlift
Runs in summer as well as winter, and the summer ride is the better value — you go up through forest and walk back down.
The slope
Short, well suited to beginners, and busy at weekends. Equipment hire is on site. Go midweek.
The drive up from Mingora
Through apple and apricot orchards, then pine. About an hour and genuinely part of the experience.
Zip line and the summer setup
Out of season the resort runs as a general hill station, which is how most Pakistani visitors actually use it.

Before you go

Snow is usually reliable from December to February. Weekdays are markedly quieter than weekends. The summer chairlift runs through the warm months and pairs well with a Gandharan archaeology day lower in the valley.

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