Tulaja Fort is a ruined stone settlement on top of a sheer-sided rock in Soon Valley, Khushab district, reached by a steep hike of about half an hour to an hour from the shrine of Baba Kachhaywala. Local tradition says it is 5,000 years old, but a Punjab University team that surveyed it in 2021 put its age at about 2,000 years. On top you find 10 to 12 acres of roofless stone houses, rock-cut rainwater pits and long views over the Punjab plains, all entered through a single cave-like gap in the rock. It fits well into a Soon Valley weekend with Sakesar and Uchali Lake.
This guide covers what Tulaja is, what the 2021 survey found, the drive and the climb, and how to fit it into a trip.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Soon Valley, Khushab district, Salt Range |
| Start of the hike | Baba Kachhaywala shrine, off the Khushab to Soon Valley road |
| Climb | Steep, about 30 minutes to an hour up |
| Age | About 2,000 years (2021 survey); local tradition says 5,000 |
| Size | About 10 to 12 acres of ruins on the plateau |
| Managed by | Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab (TDCP) |
| Best months | October to March |
| Facilities | None at the site |
What is Tulaja Fort?
Tulaja is less a fort with walls and towers than a fortified village on a natural stronghold. Writing in Dawn in 2018, Omar Mukhtar Khan described a huge boulder, several hundred feet high, rising out of the ground like a natural fortress, with a flat top. The only way in is a small, cave-like opening on one flank of the rock, leading to old stone steps cut up to the plateau.
Local legend says the people who lived here sealed that entrance with large rocks every night and moved them away in the morning. Another tradition, reported in 2021, holds that the Khwarazmian prince Jalaluddin took refuge here after fleeing across the Indus from Genghis Khan's army. Neither story has been tested by excavation. Wikipedia records an older name, Til An Ja.
How old is Tulaja Fort?
In August 2021 a team from Punjab University's Department of Archaeology, led by its chairman Dr Muhammad Hameed, carried out a preliminary survey. Their surface study of the construction methods, house plans, stone sizes and artefacts did not support the local claim of 5,000 years. In October 2021 the researchers reported the site to be about 2,000 years old.
The survey was meant to document the site and prepare a feasibility report for developing it as a tourist destination, and the Punjab government said at the time that it would conserve and excavate the fort. We could not find a report of excavation results or completed conservation since then. The site is administered by the TDCP.
What is there to see on top?
The plateau holds the remains of a whole settlement:
- Houses, from single rooms to larger buildings with several rooms, their roofs long gone and their walls crumbling.
- Massive stonework, with chiselled blocks up to about eight feet long set into the walls.
- Rainwater pits cut into the rock, the settlement's water supply on a hilltop with no spring.
- The view, south over the plains of Punjab and north into Soon Valley.
There are no signs, railings or paths on the plateau. Keep well back from the cliff edges, which drop straight down.
How do you get to Tulaja Fort?
The drive
The Dawn account describes the approach from the south. Leave the M-2 at Bhera, take the road to Khushab, then drive about 30 minutes up into Soon Valley, passing a First World War memorial on the way. After a stretch of winding road, look for a sign to the shrine of Baba Kachhaywala. A dirt track leads past several small coal mines to the shrine, about 20 minutes further, where you park. There is a small stream nearby.
If you are coming from Islamabad, our Islamabad to Soon Valley guide covers the main routes into the valley. Signage to the shrine is limited, so ask locals for "Baba Kachhaywala" or "Tulaja".
The climb
From the shrine the path climbs very steeply, close to 70 degrees in places according to the Dawn account, for about half an hour to a grassy ledge beside the main rock. From there you look for the entrance gap and the old steps up to the plateau. The same writer came down by a ridge path, also about half an hour. Dawn gives the hike as roughly an hour in all from the shrine.
What to bring and expect:
- Go with a local guide from near the shrine if you can; the entrance is easy to miss.
- Wear boots with grip, as the slope is loose and rocky.
- Carry plenty of water. There is none on top.
- Start early so you are not climbing in the midday sun or coming down in the dark.
The climb is not suitable for small children, anyone with bad knees, or anyone uneasy with heights. Our guide to hiking in the Salt Range has more on conditions in these hills.
When is the best time to go?
October to March. The Salt Range is very hot from May to August, and the bare rock gives no shade. In the monsoon, from July to September, the slope is slippery and streams can rise. Our guide to the best time to visit Soon Valley covers the seasons in more detail.
How to fit Tulaja into a Soon Valley trip
Tulaja takes half a day once you count the drive in, the climb and time on top. A sensible plan for a weekend:
- Day one: drive into the valley, see Uchali Lake in the afternoon and stay the night. See our Uchali Lake guide and where to stay in Soon Valley.
- Day two: climb Tulaja in the early morning, then drive up to Sakesar, the highest point of the Salt Range, for the view; see our Sakesar guide.
Our Soon Valley guide and experiences page cover the rest of the valley.
Is Tulaja Fort worth the climb?
For fit walkers who enjoy ruins, yes. It is one of the few places in Punjab where you can scramble up to an ancient hilltop settlement with no fences and no crowds, and the setting is dramatic.
For families and anyone wanting an easy outing, no. There is no path, no water and no help on hand. Kanhatti Garden, Uchali Lake and the drive to Sakesar give a fuller day with much less effort.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Tulaja Fort?
In Soon Valley, Khushab district, in the Salt Range of Punjab. The hike starts at the shrine of Baba Kachhaywala, reached by a dirt track off the road from Khushab into the valley.
How old is Tulaja Fort?
A Punjab University survey in 2021 put it at about 2,000 years old. Local tradition claims 5,000 years, which the survey did not support.
How long is the hike to Tulaja Fort?
About half an hour to an hour up from Baba Kachhaywala shrine, on a very steep path, and about half an hour down by the ridge.
Is there an entry fee for Tulaja Fort?
No fee has been reported. The site is administered by the TDCP, but there is no ticket office or staff on the hill.
Can children climb to Tulaja Fort?
The climb is steep and unprotected, with sheer drops on top. It is not suitable for small children.
