Dera Ismail Khan is one of Pakistan's two best-known sohan halwa towns, alongside Multan, and its version is generally described as crisper and less sweet than the Multani kind. Shops around the old city's Chowgalla bazaars sell it by weight, in boxes meant for gifting, in flavours from plain and ghee-rich to pistachio, almond and coconut.
This guide covers what makes Dera's sohan halwa distinct, the varieties you will find, where it is sold, and how to buy and carry it.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Dera Ismail Khan, southern Khyber Pakhtunkhwa |
| Known since | Early 20th century, developed through the 1920s–30s |
| Sold as | Loose by weight, or in gift boxes |
| Common flavours | Plain, sugar-free, coconut, almond, pistachio, walnut |
| Where to buy | Shops around Chowgalla and the old city bazaars |
| UK advice (September 2026) | Against all travel to Dera Ismail Khan district |
What sohan halwa is
Sohan halwa is a dense, chewy confection made by slow-cooking milk, sugar (or a sugar substitute), cornflour or wheat starch, and ghee together for a long time until the mixture sets into flat discs, then studding it with pistachios or almonds. It is Persian in origin and made in several parts of South Asia, but two Pakistani cities have built their reputations on it: Multan, whose version is the more widely exported, and Dera Ismail Khan, whose local version is generally held to be crisper and less heavy with sugar.
Local tradition traces Dera's sohan halwa to a maker named Sohan Lal, who is said to have developed the recipe in the city in the early 20th century, with the confection reaching its present form through the 1920s and 1930s. People in the region often credit the quality of Dera's milk and water for the difference in texture from the Multani version, though that is a matter of local pride as much as anything you could verify by lab test.
Varieties on sale
Sohan halwa shops in Dera now sell well beyond the plain version, with dozens of variations available across the city's confectioners:
- Plain/original, made with full ghee and sugar
- Sugar-free, for diabetic customers
- Ghee-reduced or ghee-free, a lighter version
- Nut-studded varieties: pistachio, almond and walnut are the most common
- Coconut, a more recent addition to the range
Shops typically sell it loose, cut into pieces and weighed, or pre-packed in decorated boxes meant for gifting, which is how most of it leaves the city: visitors and returning residents commonly buy several kilograms to take home or give as gifts.
Where to buy it
The trade is concentrated in and around Chowgalla, the old city's central crossroads where four historic bazaars meet, and in the wider old city market. Several long-established local confectioners trade there and elsewhere in the city under their own names; ask locally for a shop that has been making sohan halwa for decades rather than a recently opened stall, since quality and freshness vary. Buy from a shop with visible turnover, where stock doesn't sit for long, and ask when a batch was made if it isn't obvious.
Buying tips
- Ask before you taste. Many shops will offer a small piece to try before you commit to a box.
- Check the ghee content if that matters to you: heavier, ghee-rich sohan halwa keeps for longer but is richer.
- Sohan halwa travels well compared with many Pakistani sweets, since it's dry and doesn't spoil quickly, but keep it out of direct heat on a long journey, particularly in summer.
- Buy gift boxes for travel, since loose halwa can crumble if it isn't packed firmly.
Is it safe to visit Dera Ismail Khan to buy sohan halwa?
Dera Ismail Khan district is one the UK government currently advises against all travel to, in advice updated 22 September 2026, following a series of militant attacks in the district and the wider region through 2026. This is not a reason on its own to travel to buy sweets. If you already have reason to be in the city, buying sohan halwa from the old bazaars is a straightforward, low-risk activity done in daylight in a busy commercial area; it is the wider question of travelling to and through the district that needs the caution. Our guide to places to visit in Dera Ismail Khan covers the current security picture in full.
Frequently asked questions
What makes Dera Ismail Khan's sohan halwa different from Multan's?
It is generally described as crisper and less heavily sweetened than the Multani version, which local tradition credits to the city's milk and water, though this is a matter of local reputation rather than anything independently tested.
Where do I buy sohan halwa in Dera Ismail Khan?
From confectioners around Chowgalla and the old city bazaars, where several long-established shops trade. Ask locally for one that has been making it for decades.
What flavours of sohan halwa are available in Dera?
Plain, sugar-free, ghee-reduced, and versions studded with pistachio, almond, walnut or coconut, alongside the traditional original recipe.
Does sohan halwa travel well?
Yes, better than most Pakistani sweets, since it is dry and doesn't spoil quickly. Buy it in a gift box rather than loose if you are carrying it a long distance, and keep it out of direct heat.