The Sarfaranga desert is a stretch of high cold-desert dunes at about 2,300 metres, where the Shigar river meets the Indus at the mouth of the Shigar valley. It lies on the road from Skardu to Shigar, 20 to 40 minutes from Skardu depending on which part you head for, and a normal car gets you to its edge. Go in the last hour before sunset or just after sunrise, walk up the higher dunes, and if you want more, arrange a jeep or bike ride on the sand.
It is quieter than Katpana, the better-known desert beside Skardu airport, and it is where the annual cold desert jeep rally is held. This guide covers how to get there, the rides, the best light, and camping on the sand.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Altitude | About 2,300 m |
| Where | The mouth of the Shigar valley, between the Shigar river and the Indus |
| From Skardu | 20 to 40 minutes by car, on the road to Shigar |
| From Shigar town | About 20 minutes |
| Time needed | 1 to 2 hours; a night if camping |
| Best time of day | The last hour before sunset, or just after sunrise |
| Activities | Walking, jeep rides, quad and dirt bikes, camping |
| Entry | No fee to walk on the dunes; rides are paid separately |
Where is Sarfaranga, and how is it different from Katpana?
Skardu sits in a broad basin of the Indus, and the two best-known stretches of sand on its floor are Katpana and Sarfaranga. Katpana is on the south side, beside the airport and on the way to the Kachura lakes. Sarfaranga is on the north side of the river, spread across the ground between the Indus and the Shigar river where the Shigar valley opens into the basin.
The desert takes its name from Sarfaranga, a village of around 1,500 people on its eastern edge, beside the Shigar river. It is sometimes spelt Sarfranga or Safaranga.
Both deserts are called the highest cold desert in the world, and the Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department makes the claim for Sarfaranga. What matters more for a visit is that Sarfaranga is usually much quieter, with wide views up the Shigar valley and along the Indus. Katpana is closer to town and busier. Our Katpana desert guide covers the other one.
How to get there
From Skardu, take the road north towards Shigar. About 20 minutes out of town it crosses the Indus, and the dunes come into view just beyond the bridge. Most people stop at the first stretch of sand beside the road, and that is fine for a short visit.
A few things to know:
- Any car can reach the edge of the dunes on the main road. Don't drive an ordinary car onto the sand, which swallows normal tyres quickly.
- A car with a driver from Skardu is the easiest way to go, and you can combine the dunes with Shigar Fort and Blind Lake in one day. Our Skardu to Shigar guide lays out that day.
- For the deeper dunes, away from the road, go with a local driver in a 4x4 who knows the sand, or walk.
There is no fee to walk on the dunes. Blind Lake, locally Zharba Tso, lies at the edge of the desert near the entrance to the valley, and makes a quiet stop on the same trip; see our Blind Lake guide.
Jeep and bike rides on the dunes
In season, jeep rides over the dunes, quad bikes and dirt bikes are all on offer at Sarfaranga, and horse rides have been too. Because it sees fewer visitors than Katpana, don't count on finding operators waiting at the roadside on a quiet day. Ask your hotel or driver in Skardu to arrange a ride in advance, and agree the price, the length of the ride and what is included before you set off. Prices are not fixed, so we don't quote one.
If you ride:
- Wear a helmet, and don't ride without one.
- Start on flat sand. Quads tip most easily on the side of a dune, and most accidents happen there.
- Keep small children off quads and bikes, except as a passenger on a slow ride with an adult.
- Stay clear of people walking and of anyone camping.
- Ride with a local, not on your own. The desert is bigger than it looks from the road, and a breakdown in soft sand is a long walk back.
When is the light best?
The dunes are at their best when the sun is low. In the last hour before sunset the ridges throw long shadows and the sand turns warm and gold, with the peaks around the valley still lit behind it. Just after sunrise is just as good and far emptier.
As a guide, sunset in the Skardu valley is around 7:15 pm in June and July, about 6 pm in September and before 5:30 pm in October, and a little earlier on the valley floor, where the sun drops behind the ridges. Our Katpana guide has a month-by-month table that works for Sarfaranga too. Midday is harsh: the light is flat, the glare off pale sand is strong, and in summer the sand gets hot.
Through the year
- April to June: mild days and snow still on the peaks behind the dunes, which makes for the best photographs.
- July and August: hot in the middle of the day. Come early or late.
- September and October: clear air and cool evenings. The rally usually falls in the autumn, when the desert is at its busiest for a few days.
- December to February: after a snowfall the dunes turn white under the mountains. Winters here are severe, with temperatures that can fall below −20 °C in a cold spell, so go in the middle of a sunny day and don't stay out after dark.
The cold desert jeep rally
Since 2017 the Gilgit-Baltistan tourism department and the Shigar district administration have held an annual off-road jeep rally on the Sarfaranga dunes. In 2023, the fifth edition ran over three days in early October, with more than 100 drivers, a women's category, and bike racing, polo, rafting and cultural shows alongside.
If you want to see it, plan your trip around the announced dates and book rooms in Skardu early. If you would rather have the desert to yourself, avoid those days.
Camping on the dunes
People do camp at Sarfaranga, for the stars and for sunrise on the sand. There are no facilities, no water and no organised campsite, so you need to be self-sufficient and sensible about where you pitch.
- Ask first. Talk to people in Sarfaranga village or ask your driver where it is fine to camp, and camp away from houses and fields.
- Expect wind and cold. Nights are cool even in summer and bitterly cold from late autumn, and a strong wind can lift the sand. Pitch in the lee of a dune, stake the tent well and bring a warm sleeping bag.
- Carry all your water and food, and take every scrap of rubbish back out with you.
- Keep a vehicle within reach, or camp with a local driver, in case the weather turns or someone falls ill.
- Don't camp on the rally course in the days around the event.
For families, a night in Skardu or Shigar with an early drive out for sunrise gives most of the experience with none of the discomfort. Our guide to camping in Gilgit-Baltistan covers gear and the rules more widely.
Practical tips
- Shoes, not sandals. The sand is hot in summer and freezing in winter.
- Water, even for an hour. Walking in soft sand at 2,300 metres is tiring.
- Sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen. The glare off the sand is strong.
- A jacket, because the temperature drops fast once the sun goes.
- A plan for the drive back. Leave the dunes soon after sunset rather than lingering in the dark.
Is Sarfaranga worth visiting?
Yes, if you are going to Shigar anyway, and especially at sunset on the way back to Skardu. It is quieter than Katpana, and the mix of sand, rivers and snow peaks is something you don't see elsewhere in Pakistan. It suits families well for an hour's walk on the dunes.
If you have only a short stay in Skardu and are not going to Shigar, Katpana gives you a similar evening for less driving. For more of what to see around Skardu, see our Skardu destination page.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Sarfaranga desert?
At the mouth of the Shigar valley near Skardu, between the Shigar river and the Indus, on the road from Skardu to Shigar. It lies at about 2,300 metres.
How far is Sarfaranga desert from Skardu?
About 20 to 40 minutes by car, depending on which part of the desert you head for. The dunes begin just after the road crosses the Indus.
Is there an entry fee for Sarfaranga desert?
No fee to walk on the dunes. Jeep, quad and bike rides are paid separately; agree the price before you start.
Which is better, Katpana or Sarfaranga?
Sarfaranga is quieter; Katpana is closer to Skardu and easier to fit into a short trip. If you are visiting Shigar, see Sarfaranga on the way back.
Can you camp in Sarfaranga desert?
Yes, with your own gear and water, as there are no facilities. Ask locally where to pitch, and be ready for wind and cold nights.
When is the Sarfaranga jeep rally held?
It has been held every year since 2017, usually in the autumn; the 2023 edition ran in early October. Check the tourism department's announcements for the current dates.
