Sarai Kharbuza is the remains of an old caravanserai in the village of the same name, near Tarnol on the old GT Road at Islamabad's western edge. It was a staging post on the Lahore to Kabul road, built by the Gakhars before the Mughal emperor Jahangir stopped here in 1607 and explained its name in his memoirs: a dome "shaped like a melon". Today it is a lived-in village. A mosque, stretches of wall, a tower and traces of the hamam and well survive among modern houses, and much of the rest has gone.
This guide covers the history of the sarai and the road, what you can still see, how to find it, and how to visit a heritage site that is also people's homes.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Location | Sarai Kharbuza village, near Tarnol, western Islamabad |
| Built | Before 1607, by the Gakhars |
| Plan | Square, about 400 feet a side, two gateways (north and south) |
| What survives | Mosque, parts of the walls and cells, a tower, traces of the hamam and baoli |
| Condition | Heavily encroached; much original brick reused in new houses |
| Protection | Listed under the Punjab Special Premises Ordinance, 1985, but poorly enforced |
| Time needed | 30 to 45 minutes |
What was Sarai Kharbuza?
A sarai, or caravanserai, was a walled inn on a highway: a big square courtyard surrounded by rows of rooms, with gates that could be shut at night. Merchants, pilgrims, officials and soldiers slept in the cells, animals were kept in the courtyard, and the sarai supplied water, food and, on the main imperial roads, fresh horses for couriers.
The road through here was the great route between Lahore and Kabul, the line that Sher Shah Suri organised in the 16th century as the road later known as the Grand Trunk Road. Dawn notes that sarais on it were placed roughly every 20 km. Sarai Kharbuza was the stop just before travellers crossed the Margalla pass towards Taxila and Attock.
Who built it, and why "Kharbuza"?
The Gakhars, who controlled the Pothohar plateau in this period, built the sarai, and the exact date is unknown. The best evidence is Jahangir's own memoir, the Tuzk-i-Jahangiri. Passing through on his way to Kabul, he recorded: "The Gakhars in earlier times had built a dome here and taken tolls from travelers. As the dome was shaped like a melon it became known by that name." Kharbuza is the word for melon.
Some writers give the year of his stay as 1605, but Jahangir travelled to Kabul in 1607, and The Friday Times and The News on Sunday both give 1607. The News also mentions a second theory for the name: that it came from the melons grown in the area, a prized crop at the Mughal court. Local residents, according to the same reports, believe Sher Shah Suri built the sarai; the Jahangir passage points to the Gakhars.
What did the sarai look like?
Wikipedia and Dawn describe a square enclosure of brick and sandstone, about 400 feet on each side, in the Persian rabat pattern with two tall gateways. The Department of Archaeology and Museums (DOAM) record places the arched gateways in the northern and southern walls, with a continuous row of living cells, each with a veranda in front, running along the perimeter wall. It was built of small bricks and plastered in lime and surkhi.
Inside were:
- Separate quarters and courtyards for men and women.
- A mosque in the north-western corner.
- A market and storage rooms.
- A hamam (bathhouse), whose water heater and copper-lined round tank are among the most interesting survivals.
- A well in the main courtyard; DOAM also records the remains of a Suri-period baoli now covered by the mosque.
- Towers at the corners and along the walls.
What survives today?
Less every year. Dawn reported in 2018 that the sarai was heavily encroached, with its medieval bricks taken for modern homes. In 2025 The News on Sunday described the remaining features as a hexagonal tower, the mosque with small minarets, some living quarters, the baoli and stretches of burnt-brick wall, and called the site "on the verge of annihilation". The melon dome itself has long gone.
The mosque is the one part in active use, and it has grown with the village: DOAM notes it has been fully repaired and plastered in cement, with fresco painting inside. That keeps it standing, but it also means the oldest fabric is hidden.
Protection is the core problem. DOAM lists the sarai as protected under the Punjab Special Premises (Preservation) Ordinance, 1985, but The Friday Times reported in 2016 that once the village fell within Islamabad's federal territory, the Punjab archaeology department lost oversight, and no one has effectively looked after it since.
How do you find it?
Sarai Kharbuza lies near Tarnol, on the old GT Road on the western side of Islamabad, a little beyond Golra. The simplest approach is a map pin: Wikipedia gives its position as about 33.681 N, 72.903 E. Park on the main road or at the edge of the village and walk in.
- There is no ticket office or signboard that we could confirm, and no fixed hours. Go in daylight.
- Ask for the old sarai or the old mosque. The surviving walls are mixed in with houses, so a local pointer saves time.
- Respect the residents. People live inside the old enclosure. Do not walk into courtyards or photograph homes and women without permission.
- Visit the mosque outside prayer times, with shoes off and modest dress.
What else is nearby?
The sarai fits a half-day on Islamabad's western edge. Golra Sharif, the shrine of Pir Mehr Ali Shah, is a short drive back towards the city, and the Golra railway museum is close by. Further along the Margallas, the Shah Allah Ditta caves and the old Losar Baoli are two more stops on this side of the city.
Heading west, the road continues to Taxila; our places to visit in Taxila guide picks up from there, and our GT Road heritage sites guide follows the old road's sarais and forts from Lahore to Attock.
Is Sarai Kharbuza worth visiting?
For people who enjoy the history of roads, yes, with realistic expectations. You will not see a complete caravanserai. You will see the outline of one, a mosque at its corner, a tower and some old brick, in a place Jahangir himself slept, and that is enough to make the old Lahore to Kabul road feel real on the edge of a modern capital.
It does not suit families looking for a day out or anyone wanting a restored monument with signboards. In that case, start with Rohtas Fort or the Taxila museum and treat Sarai Kharbuza as a quick detour. Our experiences page has more ideas.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Sarai Kharbuza?
In Sarai Kharbuza village near Tarnol, on the old GT Road at the western edge of Islamabad.
Who built Sarai Kharbuza?
The Gakhars, who ruled the Pothohar region, built it some time before 1607, according to Jahangir's memoir. Local residents often credit Sher Shah Suri.
Why is it called Sarai Kharbuza?
Kharbuza means melon. Jahangir wrote that the Gakhars had built a dome here shaped like a melon, and the place took its name from it. Another theory links it to melons grown locally.
What is left of Sarai Kharbuza?
A mosque, a tower, stretches of wall and cells, and traces of the hamam and well, surrounded by modern village houses.
Is there an entry fee for Sarai Kharbuza?
No fee or ticket office is on record. It is an inhabited village, so visit in daylight and respect residents' privacy.