The Pir Baba shrine is the tomb of the 16th-century Sufi saint Syed Ali Tirmizi, in the village of Pacha Kalay in Buner district, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is the single most visited site in Buner, drawing devotees from across the province for the saint's teaching and for the langar and bazaar that have grown up around the shrine over the centuries.
This guide covers who Pir Baba was, what the shrine complex looks like today, how to dress and behave when you visit, and what the August 2025 floods did to the bazaar around it.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Pacha Kalay village, near the town of Pir Baba, Buner district |
| From Islamabad | About 230 km, roughly 5 hours by road |
| Who is buried there | Syed Ali Tirmizi ("Pir Baba"), died 1583 |
| What to see | The main shrine, the shrine of Charai Baba, a mosque, a seminary, a bazaar |
| Dress | Modest clothing; women cover their heads; shoes off at the shrine |
| Safety | UK advises against all travel to Buner; check local advice first |
Who was Pir Baba?
Syed Ali Tirmizi, remembered as Pir Baba, was born in around 1502, most likely in Fergana in what is now Uzbekistan, and traced his descent from the Prophet's family. He settled in Buner and became one of the most influential Sufi teachers in the region, following the Chishti, Qadri, Suhrawardi and Kubrawi orders. He died in 1583 and is buried where he taught.
His most significant disciple was Akhund Darweza Baba, and together they opposed the teachings of Pir Roshan's Roshnai movement, which was gaining followers in the same period. Pir Baba is also said to have written more than fifty books during his lifetime, and his descendants and followers built up the shrine and its associated institutions long after his death.
The shrine complex today
The complex is more than a single tomb. Alongside Pir Baba's own shrine stands that of a second saint, known locally as Charai Baba, a large white mosque, a seminary (madrassa) and a langar khana that still feeds visitors. Shops selling sweets, prayer beads and devotional items crowd right up to the main gate.
The shrine was closed for a period in 2009 during militant activity in the wider Malakand region, but it reopened and has functioned normally since. It remains an active place of worship rather than a museum: expect a working shrine with a steady flow of visitors, especially on Thursdays and around the saint's urs (death anniversary).
Visiting etiquette
- Dress modestly. Loose, covering clothing for everyone; women should cover their heads before entering the shrine itself.
- Remove your shoes at the shrine building, as at any mosque or dargah.
- Keep photography respectful. Ask before photographing people at prayer, and avoid photographing inside the inner shrine unless it is clearly permitted.
- Expect crowds on Thursdays and during the annual urs, when the shrine is busiest and quietest visits are harder to find.
- The langar is open to visitors. If you eat there, it is normal to leave a small donation.
The bazaar and the 2025 floods
The bazaar that has grown up around Pir Baba's shrine, on the bank of the Pachay stream, is the busiest in Buner and worth half an hour on its own, for dried fruit, embroidery and the usual bazaar trade of a Khyber Pakhtunkhwa town. On 15 August 2025 a cloudburst upstream sent a flash flood down the Pachay nullah, flooding the mosque beside the shrine and burying much of the bazaar and its approach roads under mud and boulders. More than 200 people died across Buner district in the disaster.
Rebuilding has continued since, but conditions on the ground change. Ask locally, or through your driver, about the state of the bazaar and the roads into Pir Baba before you set off, and do not travel here when heavy rain is forecast; the same stream and hillsides are still there.
Getting there
Pir Baba is about 230 km from Islamabad, roughly five hours by road via the M1 motorway to Mardan and then the Pir Baba road into Buner. Our guide to places to visit in Buner covers the wider district and how the shrine fits with Ranigat, Gokand and the hills along the Swat border, and our Buner day trip guide sets out a full day's route from the capital.
Is it safe to visit right now?
The UK government currently advises its citizens against all travel to Buner, a position that has not changed since well before the 2025 floods. Pakistani visitors continue to travel to Pir Baba in normal numbers, but anyone planning a visit, Pakistani or foreign, should check current local news and police advice before setting out, and foreign-passport holders should be aware that travelling against their government's advice can affect travel insurance.
Frequently asked questions
Who is buried at the Pir Baba shrine?
Syed Ali Tirmizi, a Sufi saint known as Pir Baba, who settled in Buner, taught widely across the region and died there in 1583.
How far is Pir Baba from Islamabad?
About 230 km, roughly five hours by road via the M1 motorway to Mardan and the Pir Baba road.
What should I wear to visit the shrine?
Modest, loose-fitting clothing. Women should cover their heads, and everyone removes their shoes before entering the shrine building.
Is the bazaar at Pir Baba open after the 2025 floods?
Parts of it have been rebuilt, but conditions change, and the approach roads were badly damaged. Check locally before you travel, particularly if rain is forecast.
Is it safe to visit Pir Baba shrine now?
The UK advises against all travel to Buner. Pakistani visitors still go regularly, but check current local news and police advice before you set out.
