Peshawari paya, usually called siri paye locally, is a slow-cooked stew of trotters and head meat, eaten hot with naan as a cold-weather breakfast. In Peshawar it is made mostly from cattle and buffalo, and it is sold in the old-city bazaars from autumn through winter. In September 2026 one well-known shop reported a large bowl at PKR 700 and smaller ones at PKR 350 to 400.
This guide covers what you are ordering, where the paye shops are, what it costs, and how to eat it if you have not had it before. For the wider breakfast scene, see our breakfast in Peshawar guide.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| What | Trotters and head meat, slow-cooked into a rich gelatinous broth |
| Season | Autumn to winter; demand rises as temperatures fall |
| Where | Qissa Khwani, Hashtnagri, Namak Mandi, Fawara Chowk (cantonment) |
| Price (2026) | About PKR 350 to 400 small, PKR 700 large at one popular shop |
| Eaten with | Naan |
| Best time | Morning, before the day's batch runs out |
What is Peshawari paya?
Paya means "feet" in Urdu, and the dish is found across South Asia. The Peshawar version is centred on siri paye, meaning the head (siri) and trotters (paye) of cattle or buffalo, simmered for many hours until the meat falls off the bone and the broth turns thick and glossy.
It is not a subtle dish. It is rich, fatty and warming, and it is eaten mainly in winter. People who like it will tell you that it is the reason to get up early on a cold morning.
Where to eat paye in Peshawar
Reports in September 2026 named several parts of the city where paye shops and roadside eateries were busy as the weather cooled:
- Qissa Khwani Bazaar, in the old city, where the dish draws crowds.
- Hashtnagri, on the edge of the walled city.
- Namak Mandi, better known for mutton karahi and tikka, but with paye available too.
- Fawara Chowk, in the cantonment area.
One of the shops named in that reporting is Nika Siri Paye at Qissa Khwani, run by a man who inherited it from his father about 32 years ago. It cooks in clay pots over low heat for close to 18 hours and serves in clay bowls. Take that as one shop that the press has written about rather than a ranking. Our guides to Qissa Khwani Bazaar and Namak Mandi explain how to find the streets.
What does it cost?
At the shop above, a large bowl was PKR 700 and smaller portions PKR 350 to 400 (2026). The owner said meat and ingredient costs had risen enough that sales had fallen. Other shops will price differently, and prices move with meat costs, so ask before you order and bring cash.
That makes paye one of the cheaper traditional meals in the old city, well below the cost of a mutton karahi. Peshawar's famous salted lamb is reported at up to PKR 3,500 a kilogram in 2026.
How to order and eat it
- Go in the morning. Paye is a breakfast dish, and popular shops can sell out.
- Ask for the portion size rather than a weight: small or large bowl.
- Ask for naan with it. It is usually eaten by tearing the bread and dipping it into the broth.
- Expect fat and heat. The broth is thick and can be very hot in the bowl.
- Eat it with your fingers or a spoon, depending on the shop, and expect some mess.
If you are unsure about the meat, ask what is in the bowl before you order. Some shops serve only siri paye, some also serve other cuts.
Is it safe to eat?
Food from a busy shop with fast turnover is generally the safest choice, and paye that has been cooked for many hours and served hot has less time to go off. If you have a sensitive stomach, start with a small bowl, and avoid places that look quiet. Drink bottled water.
Because paye is eaten early and in the walled city, the security picture matters as well. Peshawar is on the UK government's advise-against-all-travel list, and there have been repeated attacks on police in the city and nearby districts in 2026. Pakistani visitors still eat in the old city every day. Check local news and police advice before you set out, and treat our Peshawar safety guide as your starting point. Overseas visitors should check their own government's advice, which can void travel insurance.
Is it worth trying?
Yes, if you eat meat and want something that is really Peshawari rather than a restaurant version. It is cheap, and one bowl tells you whether you like it.
Skip it if you dislike fat, bone or strong flavours, in which case a plate of chapli kebab or a Kabuli pulao is easier. It is also a poor fit for summer: it is a winter food, and many shops make it seasonally. More Peshawar food ideas are in our famous foods guide and on the experiences page.
Frequently asked questions
What is paya?
A stew of trotters, and in Peshawar often head meat as well, slow-cooked until the broth is thick and rich. It is eaten with naan, mostly in the cooler months.
What does siri paye mean?
Siri means head and paye means trotters. Siri paye is the version that includes both.
How much does paya cost in Peshawar?
At a shop reported on in September 2026, a large bowl cost PKR 700 and a small one PKR 350 to 400. Prices vary by shop and change with meat costs.
When is paya eaten?
Usually at breakfast, and mainly in autumn and winter. Go in the morning while it is freshly served.
Where is the best paya in Peshawar?
There is no official ranking. Qissa Khwani, Hashtnagri, Namak Mandi and Fawara Chowk are the areas named in recent reporting, and a busy, fast-turnover shop is a good sign.
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