The Lal Mahra tombs are four square brick mausoleums in a large graveyard about 40 km south of Dera Ismail Khan, just off the Indus Highway. Their walls carry turquoise glazed tiles, cut brick and terracotta panels, and scholars regard them as some of the earliest tiled buildings in the subcontinent, most likely from the second half of the 13th century. Nobody knows for certain who is buried in them.
They are a small, remote and rarely visited monument, in a district the UK government advises against visiting. This guide explains what the tombs are, how people reach them, what you will and will not find there, and how to weigh the risks.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Where | Lal Mahra (also written Lal Marah), about 40 to 42 km south of Dera Ismail Khan |
| Road | Indus Highway (N-55), then a dirt village road of roughly 7 km |
| What survives | Four tombs of an original eleven, plus a large graveyard |
| Age | Probably second half of the 13th century; sources vary |
| Custody | Department of Archaeology and Museums, since 1978 |
| Facilities | A watchman and a boundary fence; no visitor centre reported |
| Safety | UK advises against all travel to Dera Ismail Khan |
What are the Lal Mahra tombs?
Locally the site is called Andira, a word for a graveyard. Among the many graves stand four tombs, each square in plan with tapering turrets at the corners. Two of them have round corner towers. They were built of baked brick and decorated, inside and out, with bands of blue glazed tile, cut brick and terracotta plaques in zigzag, lozenge and chevron patterns. The original domes have fallen, leaving only the lower parts of their drums.
Accounts say there were once eleven tombs. Seven have disappeared into rubble, and the four that remain were restored after the provincial archaeology department took them over in 1978.
Why do they matter?
Glazed tilework became one of the signatures of South Asian Islamic architecture, from the shrines of Multan to the Mughal buildings of Lahore. The Lal Mahra tombs are often cited as an early example, and their square plan, corner turrets and tile bands look forward to the great tomb of Rukn-e-Alam in Multan.
One explanation for the glaze is that craftsmen fled west to east after the Mongol invasions of Khorasan and brought the technique with them. That is a scholarly theory, not a recorded fact, and the site has no inscription to settle it.
How old are they, and who is buried here?
Sources disagree. Architectural historians generally place the tombs in the second half of the 13th century. Some travellers' accounts and older descriptions suggest earlier periods, from the Ghaznavid era onward, and a heritage listing gives the 14th century. The site sat on an old route linking Ghazni with Multan, so a medieval date makes sense, but "there is no date or detail written on any of the graves", as one visitor put it.
Local tradition links the graves to nobles of a past dynasty. The writer Salman Rashid has suggested they may commemorate soldiers who died defending the region against Mongol raids, in a battle history has forgotten. Treat all of this as informed guessing.
How do you get to Lal Mahra?
From Dera Ismail Khan, drive south on the Indus Highway for about 40 km, past the village of Paroa. A roadside sign points right for the "ancient tombs and graveyard", and a dirt road of about 7 km runs through farm fields to the site. Distances in published accounts vary by a couple of kilometres, so ask locally rather than relying on an odometer reading.
The dirt road can be bumpy and, after rain, muddy, so a high-clearance car is more comfortable than a low saloon. Bring water, as there is no shop at the site.
Is it safe to visit?
Dera Ismail Khan is one of the districts the UK advises against all travel to, and southern Khyber Pakhtunkhwa has seen deadly attacks in 2026, in Bannu, Lakki Marwat and Kohat among others. The Indus Highway south of the city is a long, exposed stretch, and the tombs are down a side road that police may not patrol.
People who live in the district do visit. If you are among them or have a compelling reason to go, check local news and current police advice on the day, tell someone your route, go in daylight and with a local host, and do not stay long. Foreign visitors should read their own government's advice, which may say not to go and can void travel insurance.
What is it like once you are there?
Published accounts describe a quiet site. The tombs are fenced on one side, a watchman looks after them, and the register showed very few visitors when one writer called. Expect brick, blue tile fragments, empty cenotaphs and open land. Bring a hat and avoid the middle of the day in summer, when this part of the Indus plain is extremely hot.
Respect the graveyard. Many of the graves are modern and still in use by nearby families, so keep to paths, do not climb on structures and ask before photographing people.
Who should visit?
The tombs suit architecture and history enthusiasts, photographers working with local contacts, and people already living in Dera Ismail Khan. They do not suit a casual day out: the road is rough, nothing is signposted in English and the security situation is a real limit.
If you are researching the district, start with our guide to places to visit in Dera Ismail Khan, and read about the older settlement mound in our piece on Rehman Dheri. For a trip with fewer unknowns, browse our destinations or see how we plan routes on our travel guide page.
Frequently asked questions
Where are the Lal Mahra tombs?
They are in the village of Lal Mahra, about 40 km south of Dera Ismail Khan on the Indus Highway, reached by a roadside turn and a dirt road of roughly 7 km.
How old are the Lal Mahra tombs?
Most scholars date them to the second half of the 13th century, though some accounts give earlier or later dates. No inscription records the year.
Who is buried in the Lal Mahra tombs?
Nobody knows. Local belief points to nobles, while one writer suggests soldiers who fell in a forgotten battle against Mongol raiders.
Is there an entry fee?
We found no reported fee or opening hours. A watchman is on site. Check with the provincial archaeology department or locals before going.
Is Lal Mahra safe to visit?
Dera Ismail Khan is a district the UK advises against all travel to. Check local news and police advice first, and go in daylight with a local host.
