Traditional dress in Gilgit-Baltistan centres on wool: a rolled cap for men, a heavy woollen coat called a shuqa for winter, and for women a fitted embroidered cap worn under a dupatta, its style changing from valley to valley. None of it is costume kept only for festivals. You will see older men in the Hunza and Baltistan cap on an ordinary morning in the bazaar, and it is one of the most genuine things a visitor can buy and take home.
This guide covers the main pieces, how they differ between Hunza, Baltistan and elsewhere in the region, and where to buy something actually made there rather than a machine-made copy.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Men's cap | Rolled woollen cap, called khoi in Shina, nating in Balti |
| Women's cap | Fitted embroidered cap, worn under a dupatta, style varies by valley |
| Winter coat | Shuqa, a long gown of handwoven wool |
| Fabric | Patti, thick wool woven on a vertical loom |
| Everyday or festival wear? | Both; older men wear the cap daily |
| Where to buy | Bazaars and women's craft shops in Karimabad, Gilgit and Skardu |
The men's woollen cap
The most recognisable piece of dress in the region is the rolled woollen cap, flat-topped with the sides turned up, worn by men across Gilgit-Baltistan and into Chitral. It is called khoi in Shina, nating in Balti, and has other names in Burushaski and Wakhi. White is the most common colour and the most formal; grey and brown versions are everyday wear. A feather or a small flower tucked into the front is a personal touch rather than a fixed rule, more common at weddings and festivals.
Older men in Hunza, Nagar, Baltistan and Chitral wear the cap as ordinary daily dress, not just for visitors' cameras. Younger men wear it more for special occasions, alongside regular shalwar kameez.
The shuqa: the region's winter coat
The shuqa is a long, loose woollen gown, cut generously enough to wear over other clothes, with sleeves long enough to double as mittens in the cold. It is made from patti, the thick handwoven wool that is the base fabric for most traditional dress here, and a well-made one is warm enough on its own for a Gilgit-Baltistan winter.
Plain shuqas are everyday winter wear, while ones made for a groom or for a special occasion carry qalami embroidery, hand-stitched patterns on the chest, back and cuffs. Making one by hand, from spinning and weaving the wool to the final embroidery, is slow work, which is part of why a genuine shuqa costs more than a shalwar kameez of ordinary fabric.
Women's dress: caps, colour and embroidery
Everyday dress for women follows the shalwar kameez pattern seen across Pakistan: loose trousers, a long tunic, and a dupatta. What marks it as regional is the cap worn underneath the dupatta and the embroidery on the kameez.
The cap, sometimes called the Iraghi cap in Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral, is fitted and colourful, embroidered in silk thread with floral, bird and animal motifs on a woollen base. A finished one can take weeks of work at a few hours a day. Some caps carry a jewelled band across the front called a silsila. Styles differ by valley: Hunza's embroidery is generally the best known to visitors, seen in the craft shops of Karimabad and Altit, while Baltistan and Ghizer have their own colours and patterns.
Bridal dress adds more: embroidered bands stitched around the collar, cuffs and hem of the kameez, and brighter colours than everyday wear. Older women tend toward darker dupattas and simpler embroidery, younger women brighter ones, a pattern that holds across most of the region.
Regional differences worth knowing
Dress changes as you move between valleys, in step with the languages and communities covered in our guide to Gilgit-Baltistan's culture and traditions.
- Hunza and Nagar have the most visible embroidery tradition, sold through women's craft enterprises, and the cap is worn openly by men of all ages in Karimabad.
- Baltistan shares the general shalwar kameez and cap pattern but with its own colours and embroidery designs, and some older Balti dress shows the Tibetic roots of the region's culture.
- Diamer and Astore, the more conservative part of the region, keep dress plainer and more covered, and it is not the place to ask to photograph a woman in traditional dress.
- Chitral-influenced Ghizer, where Khowar is spoken, shares the cap tradition with Chitral just across the border.
Where to buy the real thing
Genuine handwoven patti feels dense, slightly uneven and a little rough; the machine-made cloth increasingly sold alongside it is smoother and more even, and noticeably cheaper. If a shuqa or cap looks too cheap for the work involved, it probably is not handwoven.
- Women's caps and embroidery are best bought from the craft shops and women's enterprises in Karimabad, Altit and Aliabad, several set up with support from Aga Khan development programmes. Prices are usually fixed, and the money goes to the women who made the pieces.
- Men's caps and patti woollens are sold in the general bazaars of Gilgit, Karimabad and Skardu, where bargaining is normal.
- A finished shuqa is a bigger purchase, worth asking a hotel or guide to point you to a maker rather than the first stall you pass.
Our fuller souvenir guide to Gilgit-Baltistan covers pricing, bargaining and what else is genuinely local, from dry fruit to gemstones.
Should you buy or wear traditional dress as a visitor?
Buying a cap, a piece of embroidery or a shuqa to take home is welcomed, and it supports real craftwork rather than mass production. Wearing the cap yourself during your trip is also fine and often appreciated; it is not treated as a costume reserved for locals only.
What to be more careful with is asking to photograph women in traditional dress, particularly in more conservative areas such as Diamer. Ask first, and expect a polite no in some places. Our travel guide covers photography etiquette and dress for visitors more broadly.
Frequently asked questions
What is the traditional cap of Gilgit-Baltistan called?
The men's rolled woollen cap is called khoi in Shina and nating in Balti. Women's fitted embroidered cap is sometimes known as the Iraghi cap, shared with neighbouring Chitral.
What is a shuqa?
A long traditional woollen coat, made from handwoven patti cloth, with sleeves long enough to use as mittens. Plain ones are everyday winter wear; embroidered ones are made for weddings and special occasions.
Is it appropriate for a visitor to wear the traditional cap?
Yes. Visitors buying and wearing the woollen cap is common and generally appreciated, unlike photographing women in traditional dress without asking first.
Where can I buy authentic Hunza embroidery?
Women's craft shops and enterprises in Karimabad, Altit and Aliabad sell genuine embroidery at fixed, fair prices, with the proceeds going to the women who made it.
Does traditional dress differ between Hunza and Baltistan?
Yes. Both share the general shalwar kameez, cap and shuqa pattern, but the embroidery colours and motifs differ, and Baltistan's dress carries more of the region's older Tibetic influence.
