Saruwala Maqbara, the Cypress Tomb, is a tall, tapering eighteenth-century tomb in Begumpura, Lahore, just off the Grand Trunk Road near Gulabi Bagh. It is named after the cypress trees (saru) in glazed tile on its outer walls, and it holds Sharf-un-Nisa Begum, sister of Nawab Zakariya Khan, Mughal governor of Lahore, who first used its raised chamber as a place to read the Quran. It now stands among houses down narrow lanes, so it is best found by day, with someone local to show the way.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Location | Begumpura, off GT Road, north of Dai Anga's tomb near Gulabi Bagh |
| Built | About 1735 to 1740 |
| Buried | Sharf-un-Nisa Begum, sister of Nawab Zakariya Khan |
| Height | About 12 m (39 feet), burial chamber about 25 feet above ground |
| Known for | Cypress and flower panels in glazed tile |
| Protection | Listed as a protected monument by the Punjab Archaeology Department |
| Entry | No ticket or opening hours that we could confirm |
Who was Sharf-un-Nisa Begum?
Sharf-un-Nisa Begum was the sister of Nawab Zakariya Khan, who governed Lahore for the Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah, known as Rangeela. Begumpura itself takes its name from their family: it was named after Zakariya Khan's mother.
The story told about her is that she withdrew from court life and built this tower as a private place to read the Quran each morning. She climbed to the raised chamber by a wooden ladder, which was taken away when she came down, so that she could keep strict purdah. When she died, in 1745 according to the Lahore historian Majid Sheikh, she was buried in the same chamber, as she had asked, and its openings were sealed.
What do the cypress tiles look like?
The tomb is a square, tapering tower about 39 feet (12 m) high, topped by a pyramid-shaped vault rather than a dome, which makes it unlike any other tomb in Lahore. The burial chamber sits high up the tower, about 25 feet above the ground.
The outer walls carry glazed tile mosaic in bright colours, with tall green cypress trees on each side surrounded by flowering plants. The cypress was a common Persian and Mughal symbol of eternity, and in Lahore this design appears only here. The upper tiles are often described as Varanasi tiles. Lower down, the walls were faced with white and blue tiles said to have been imported from western Europe, most of which are gone.
Much of what survives is high on the walls, which helps explain why it survived at all.
Why did the lower tiles disappear?
In the eighteenth century, rumours spread that the sealed chamber held treasure. During the early Sikh period it was broken into, and Sharf-un-Nisa's Quran and a jewelled sword, said to have been a gift from the Mughal ruler, were taken. Later, according to Majid Sheikh, tiles from the lower walls were removed for use in Amritsar during Ranjit Singh's reign.
A local legend explains why the cypress panels higher up remained: men who climbed ladders to prise them off kept falling. Whatever the reason, those upper panels are the reason the tomb is worth finding.
In recent decades the tomb has had more care than many of its neighbours. Sir Nicholas Barrington, British High Commissioner to Pakistan in the 1990s, championed its preservation, and it is listed as a protected monument by the Punjab Archaeology Department, whose secretary inspected renovation work at the "Surru wala" tomb in April 2021.
How do I find Saruwala Maqbara?
The tomb is in Begumpura, on the same side of GT Road as the Gulabi Bagh gateway and behind it, on the same line as the tomb of Dai Anga, Shah Jahan's wet nurse, and north of it. It is surrounded by houses, with a small open plot where local boys play cricket, so you will not see it from the main road.
- Get to the Gulabi Bagh gateway on GT Road. The UET and Baghbanpura stations on the Orange Line are the nearest; our Orange Line guide has the details.
- Ask for "Saruwala Maqbara" or "Sarvwala Maqbara" rather than "Cypress Tomb"; locals will know the Urdu name.
- Follow the lanes into Begumpura, away from the main road, and ask again as you go.
Go in daylight, dress modestly and be respectful of the families living around it; you are walking through a residential area. A local guide, or a friend from Lahore, makes the search much easier. We could not confirm any fixed opening hours or whether the chamber is ever opened, so plan to see the tomb from outside.
What else is nearby?
The Cypress Tomb is part of a cluster of Mughal monuments along GT Road:
- The Gulabi Bagh gateway and the tomb of Dai Anga, just to the south.
- Buddhu ka Awa, the tiled domed tomb opposite UET.
- The tomb of Ali Mardan Khan, the tall octagonal tomb behind it, where access is restricted.
- Shalimar Gardens, a few minutes east, the obvious place to end the morning.
For more ideas across the city, see our experiences page.
Is the Cypress Tomb worth finding?
For anyone who likes Mughal tile work, yes. The cypress panels are unlike anything else in Lahore, and the story of a woman who built a tower to pray in private is a memorable one. Families with small children and anyone who dislikes narrow, crowded lanes will find it less rewarding, because there is little space around it and no facilities. Pair it with Shalimar Gardens so the trip has a comfortable anchor.
Frequently asked questions
What is Saruwala Maqbara?
The Urdu name of the Cypress Tomb in Begumpura, Lahore, named after the cypress trees (saru) in glazed tile on its walls.
Who is buried in the Cypress Tomb?
Sharf-un-Nisa Begum, sister of Nawab Zakariya Khan, the Mughal governor of Lahore under Muhammad Shah.
When was the Cypress Tomb built?
Around 1735 to 1740. It was built as a meditation chamber and became her tomb after her death.
Can you go inside the Cypress Tomb?
The chamber is high up the tower and was sealed after her burial. We could not confirm any visitor access inside, so expect to see it from outside.
How do I get to the Cypress Tomb?
Go to the Gulabi Bagh gateway on GT Road and walk into Begumpura behind it, asking locally for Saruwala Maqbara.
